15v...too much output from Honda R/R ?

[Dave8338]

I can answer #3:
I use copper solder cleaner/flux for all of my projects. It is slightly acidic so a GOOD flush with brake cleaner or carb cleaner is a must. It works great and when the connectors are treated with dielectric grease prior to install...they never cause an additional problem.

As far as grounds...several and their locations are bike/model specific.

Ignition, never done anything other than silicone spray to any of mine.

[Sandy]

If that's the same ign. switch that's on my '79 the actual switch part can be removed from the bottom with 1 screw. Probably be easiest if you drop the headlight bucket, maybe clean the connectors in there too while you're at it. I removed my whole switch but you might be able to just remove that retaining screw with the switch in place. I didn't want to disassemble the switch but with it out you can easily flood the switch with cleaner and work the switch, flood again and repeat until the cleaner comes out clear, blowing some air inside could also help. The contact armature will rotate 360 degrees so mark it or pay attention so you don't get it back in 180 degrees out, don't ask how I know that. That made a bigger difference than cleaning the RH switch. Got my voltage drop at the coils down to just under .5V which is probably as good as it's going to get. Now that I've had mine apart I don't think spraying down the key slot will get much cleaner into the actual switch contacts.

[propflux01]

1. ignition switch - manual says it can be removed after instrument panel is removed. Also says it is a sealed unit. Is it? Can contacts be sprayed, brass-brushed after taking it off, or do you just shoot cleaner down key slot?

Thanks.

I will qoute you what I wrote in an earlier posting about the ign switch:

For those who want to indulge in this, be forwarned: like most Suzuki switches, there are springs and a ball just waiting to explode all over your shop floor!! note however, that it is very easy to figure out what goes where, once you find all the parts!. There is a total of 4 springs, one ball, 3 little copper contacts similar to what you would find in the brake switches, and a white 'cap' (it makes the 'step' when you move the key to different positions). One ball, a spring, and the plastic 'cap' go together, and the other 3 springs and copper contacts go together. All in all, it was easy to remove everything and clean it, add Di-grease and put it all back together.

Please note that I have a 'GK with the big fairing, and still managed to get my switch unpluggled, removed, and installed without taking anything else off.

[Dave R]

Thanks propflux01, boy, I'm not sure if I have the macro eyesight/steady hands for that or not...


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how many grounds are on this bike (1100E) that could be corroded? (approximate location?)
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Re-reading that quote...guess it sounds kind of dumb. What I meant was:

- we have the large negative battery cable hooked to the engine case.

- Isn't there an actual "electrical" connection (either wire or metallic strap) hooking the engine to the frame? Can't find it for the life of me. Is it the engine mounting bolts that provide the electrical connection?

[propflux01]

Its really not that bad, I used a 10" extension on a ratchet with a hex-head socket, a flashlight (because it was dark outside and my garage lighting wasn't that good) and I also used "the force" to feel my way with the bolt on the end of the hex-head socket when I reinstalled it. Took me about 15 minutes to remove and another 15 to install it once I moved the wire harness out of the way.

[Dave R]

...well, in the continuing saga...

Thought I MUST be having my problem through the ignition switch circuit.

Removed, disassembled switch. (not near as bad as I was expecting).

Did a THOROUGH cleaning (solder flux, brass brush, contact cleaner) of switch, switch connector in headlight shell, all other connectors in headlight shell, fuse block terminals and connector.

When I'm done...at the fuse block orange wire (return wire from the ignition switch) I am down 1 volt from battery voltage. In other words, JUST going thru 1. approx 6 feet of wire 2. ignition switch 3. ignition switch connector... I have already dropped 1 volt. Wouldn't you say this is at least DOUBLE what it should be even allowing for 30 year old wiring and connector ? I'm losing this much BEFORE current even heads to the individual systems. Not sure how you proceed. Is the original wiring/connector system THAT lousy? Bike is a relatively low mileage bike, always garaged. Contacts of ignition switch didn't even look that worn.

Can't even imagine the struggles some of you guys have when dealing with HIGH mileage, weathered,corroded bikes.

Any suggestions, please weigh in.

[duaneage]

When you consider the entire bike is powered from that point then this is a fairly large drop. Here is the way to find the culprit: Using the voltmeter on the low range ( around 2 volt) place the red lead on one side of a connector and the black on the other side, going in through the rear to get to the pins. If you read 0 volts or pretty close to it then you have a great connection. If you read a volt then you found the problem. It could be a bad crimp or greened wire (the copper turns green and it's resistance goes way up, preventing a good connection) so the solution would be to replace the connector or run a new wire as well.

You only have a few points to test at. You can even check a run of wire the same way to see if it is bad and dropping the volt. I would look at the connections on the fuse block underneath the plastic as well.

You are right, these are old machines and sometimes they are not kept in the best of conditions. But it is a joy to restore them to their glory.

[Dave R]

Thanks Duane, I lost my concentration and my direction...due to exasperation...

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When you consider the entire bike is powered from that point then this is a fairly large drop. Here is the way to find the culprit: Using the voltmeter on the low range ( around 2 volt) place the red lead on one side of a connector and the black on the other side, going in through the rear to get to the pins. If you read 0 volts or pretty close to it then you have a great connection. If you read a volt then you found the problem. It could be a bad crimp or greened wire (the copper turns green and it's resistance goes way up, preventing a good connection) so the solution would be to replace the connector or run a new wire as well.

You only have a few points to test at. You can even check a run of wire the same way to see if it is bad and dropping the volt. I would look at the connections on the fuse block underneath the plastic as well.
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I already have my 1v loss at the orange wire ENTERING the fuse block (so I'm forgetting about internal fuse block losses for now)

Inside headlight shell:

-across ignition switch connector... I'm dropping .01 v - that's good

-across ignition switch contacts... I'm dropping .22 v

-across orange wire (return wire from ignition switch to fuse block input... I'm dropping .26 v


That adds up to approx. .5 v. Schematic says there's nothing else in this line. I still have my original 1 volt loss when I measure the line in totality.
(from orange wire input to fuse block to battery neg. terminal)

Where in the heck is the missing .5 volt? All measurements have been checked and re-checked.

Thanks, Dave

[duaneage]

Run a wire from the good side of the switch over to the fuse block. Use some new bullet connects ( I sent you some) and see if that solves it. You don't disconnect these things everyday so it might be a decent way to fix it.

[Dave R]

Okay, finally found something strange (I think)

-Meter across rear brake light switch is dropping massive voltage, 10.5 volts. ( with all connectors connected, key on) This isn't right, is it?

-When I hit brake, voltage dances all over, goes down to 2.8v.

-When unhooked from connectors, switch tests fine.

-I read continuity between red/bl and org/grn wires going into the harness (actually 1.4 ohms) (with brake light unplugged.)

-notice burn discoloration on wh. connector leading to brake switch.


When original R/R burned up (melted white plug shown in photo) I guess it also got this other lead hot. Do you suppose these red/bl and org/grn wires fused together down in the harness.

How do you proceed? Start unwrapping the harness tape?

Excuse any confusion. Lack of sleep and at my wits end.


To clarify this picture.. white and orange wire going left are headed straight to brake light switch. red/bl and org/grn headed down into harness.

[duaneage]

replace the stator wire leads with the new connectors I sent you. Run the stator wires directly into the RR yellow leads and get rid of that white connector. Last, connect the red from the RR to the fusebox with the new connector I sent for that, a male blue bullet.

[Dave R]

Already done all of that Duane. Was just showing the melted connector as example of how hot everything evidently got. It's not hooked up.


Am charging at 15.5 volts due to sense wire reading low circuit voltage. That's what I'm trying to figure out, the low circuit voltage that's causing the overcharge.