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15v...too much output from Honda R/R ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dave R
  • Start date Start date
...well, in the continuing saga...

Thought I MUST be having my problem through the ignition switch circuit.

Removed, disassembled switch. (not near as bad as I was expecting).

Did a THOROUGH cleaning (solder flux, brass brush, contact cleaner) of switch, switch connector in headlight shell, all other connectors in headlight shell, fuse block terminals and connector.

When I'm done...at the fuse block orange wire (return wire from the ignition switch) I am down 1 volt from battery voltage. In other words, JUST going thru 1. approx 6 feet of wire 2. ignition switch 3. ignition switch connector... I have already dropped 1 volt. Wouldn't you say this is at least DOUBLE what it should be even allowing for 30 year old wiring and connector ? I'm losing this much BEFORE current even heads to the individual systems. Not sure how you proceed. Is the original wiring/connector system THAT lousy? Bike is a relatively low mileage bike, always garaged. Contacts of ignition switch didn't even look that worn.

Can't even imagine the struggles some of you guys have when dealing with HIGH mileage, weathered,corroded bikes.

Any suggestions, please weigh in.
 
When you consider the entire bike is powered from that point then this is a fairly large drop. Here is the way to find the culprit: Using the voltmeter on the low range ( around 2 volt) place the red lead on one side of a connector and the black on the other side, going in through the rear to get to the pins. If you read 0 volts or pretty close to it then you have a great connection. If you read a volt then you found the problem. It could be a bad crimp or greened wire (the copper turns green and it's resistance goes way up, preventing a good connection) so the solution would be to replace the connector or run a new wire as well.

You only have a few points to test at. You can even check a run of wire the same way to see if it is bad and dropping the volt. I would look at the connections on the fuse block underneath the plastic as well.

You are right, these are old machines and sometimes they are not kept in the best of conditions. But it is a joy to restore them to their glory.
 
Thanks Duane, I lost my concentration and my direction...due to exasperation...

========================================

When you consider the entire bike is powered from that point then this is a fairly large drop. Here is the way to find the culprit: Using the voltmeter on the low range ( around 2 volt) place the red lead on one side of a connector and the black on the other side, going in through the rear to get to the pins. If you read 0 volts or pretty close to it then you have a great connection. If you read a volt then you found the problem. It could be a bad crimp or greened wire (the copper turns green and it's resistance goes way up, preventing a good connection) so the solution would be to replace the connector or run a new wire as well.

You only have a few points to test at. You can even check a run of wire the same way to see if it is bad and dropping the volt. I would look at the connections on the fuse block underneath the plastic as well.
================================

I already have my 1v loss at the orange wire ENTERING the fuse block (so I'm forgetting about internal fuse block losses for now)

Inside headlight shell:

-across ignition switch connector... I'm dropping .01 v - that's good

-across ignition switch contacts... I'm dropping .22 v

-across orange wire (return wire from ignition switch to fuse block input... I'm dropping .26 v


That adds up to approx. .5 v. Schematic says there's nothing else in this line. I still have my original 1 volt loss when I measure the line in totality.
(from orange wire input to fuse block to battery neg. terminal)

Where in the heck is the missing .5 volt? All measurements have been checked and re-checked.

Thanks, Dave
 
Run a wire from the good side of the switch over to the fuse block. Use some new bullet connects ( I sent you some) and see if that solves it. You don't disconnect these things everyday so it might be a decent way to fix it.
 
Okay, finally found something strange (I think)

-Meter across rear brake light switch is dropping massive voltage, 10.5 volts. ( with all connectors connected, key on) This isn't right, is it?

-When I hit brake, voltage dances all over, goes down to 2.8v.

-When unhooked from connectors, switch tests fine.

-I read continuity between red/bl and org/grn wires going into the harness (actually 1.4 ohms) (with brake light unplugged.)

-notice burn discoloration on wh. connector leading to brake switch.


When original R/R burned up (melted white plug shown in photo) I guess it also got this other lead hot. Do you suppose these red/bl and org/grn wires fused together down in the harness.

How do you proceed? Start unwrapping the harness tape?

Excuse any confusion. Lack of sleep and at my wits end.


To clarify this picture.. white and orange wire going left are headed straight to brake light switch. red/bl and org/grn headed down into harness.
IMG_0378.jpg
 
replace the stator wire leads with the new connectors I sent you. Run the stator wires directly into the RR yellow leads and get rid of that white connector. Last, connect the red from the RR to the fusebox with the new connector I sent for that, a male blue bullet.
 
Already done all of that Duane. Was just showing the melted connector as example of how hot everything evidently got. It's not hooked up.


Am charging at 15.5 volts due to sense wire reading low circuit voltage. That's what I'm trying to figure out, the low circuit voltage that's causing the overcharge.
 
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