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    valve job

    I just finished my first valve job on my 1980 850. It took a while since I had to get the right shims(thanks Ray). I double checked the gaps and all are at .07 except one is .06. Had to replace every old shim. Followed Bikecliffs step by step. While I haven't had a chance to ride it yet, I now have a noticeable knock in the engine. While I always had a slight knock while it was idling below 1000 rpms. It is now louder and stays until about 1300-1500 rpms. Did I get a valve too tight? Like I said none are beyond .07mm. Any suggestions? I'm not looking forward to redoing it, was planing on riding alot tomorrow. Thanks in advance Terrylee.

    #2
    check to make sure that one of your shims hasnt come up out of the bucket.
    I didnt do it I swear !!

    --------------------------
    http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...Picture003.jpg 1982 GS850G

    http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...n1/Picture.jpg 1980 GS1100L

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      #3
      A "valve job" is when the valves and seats are ground. What you did was adjust your valves.

      Assuming you installed thinner shims in the engine than before, the extra clearance may be leading to the noise. If that's the case, you have nothing to worry about. You checked using the Suzuki method didn't you and not to the Clymers technique?
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #4
        If the knock is intermittent and goes away about 1500 rpm, it might be "cam walk", too.

        Various methods have been tried to eliminate it, but most have not found that it's worth the effort. There are some thrust surfaces that are supposed to keep the cam centered side-to-side, but wear a bit, allowing some movement. When the wear is sufficient, the cam can actually touch the inside of the valve cover, making the noise. When the engine speed is raised, the increased tension on the cam chain pulls it to the center, eliminating the noise. Since this is how the engine is normally run, we just tolerate a bit of noise at idle.

        .
        sigpic
        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
        Family Portrait
        Siblings and Spouses
        Mom's first ride
        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
        (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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          #5
          Originally posted by kparkfan View Post
          check to make sure that one of your shims hasnt come up out of the bucket.
          Thanks for the suggestion, the noise is now back to a slight knock that I've always had, didn't do anthing but I'm happy. It is amazing how much better the bike is running and it has so much more power! Still need to sync. carbs., but that will be another week. Terrylee

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Steve View Post
            If the knock is intermittent and goes away about 1500 rpm, it might be "cam walk", too.

            Various methods have been tried to eliminate it, but most have not found that it's worth the effort. There are some thrust surfaces that are supposed to keep the cam centered side-to-side, but wear a bit, allowing some movement. When the wear is sufficient, the cam can actually touch the inside of the valve cover, making the noise. When the engine speed is raised, the increased tension on the cam chain pulls it to the center, eliminating the noise. Since this is how the engine is normally run, we just tolerate a bit of noise at idle..
            You could be right, but the noise is back to what it was before,so I'm not worried. Thanks for the info. Terrylee

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
              A "valve job" is when the valves and seats are ground. What you did was adjust your valves.

              Assuming you installed thinner shims in the engine than before, the extra clearance may be leading to the noise. If that's the case, you have nothing to worry about. You checked using the Suzuki method didn't you and not to the Clymers technique?
              sorry for using the wrong term, I know what a valve job is, I just had a brain fart, I was really tired at that point. Sound seems back to normal and the bike is flying now so I not going to worry. Thanks for the info. Terrylee

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