Shaftie swing arm questions

[Guy]

Took the swingarm off the GS1100G last night to repack the bearings.
I didn't undo the 4 flange bolts at the front of the shaft, I just undid the boot and pulled the swing arm backwards separating the shaft at the splines. Two quick questions:
Is there any point in greasing the universal joint or are the bearings in it sealed?
Will it go back together in the reverse order that I took it apart, or will I need to install the shaft into the splines first and then bolt up the flange?
Appreciate the help.

[Steve]

The u-joint bearings are sealed.

Assembly will be the reverse order that you took it apart.

Before putting things back together, put some Honda Moly 60 grease on the splines. It's a small cartridge that will fit in the mini grease guns, but don't bother doing that. Just pop the cap and use a screw driver or flat wooden applicator stick to get a bit to put on the splines. Be careful that you don't get any on your clothes, it's hard to get out. Don't just run down to Auto Zone to get some "moly grease", either. A grease can contain as little as 4% molydenum disulphide and still be called "moly". That is OK for parts that slide, but the splines have different needs, as they only squeeze against each other, and need cushioning.

Don't put the tube away yet, you will need to put some on the splines for the rear wheel, too. Before applying it to the wheel splines, clean them out and inspect them. If your bike is an '82 or early '83, they may be worn and on the verge of failure. Other years seem to be OK. When you apply the Moly 60 to the splines, you don't need a whole lot of it. Basically just put it on like a heavy coat of paint. You should do the wheel splines every time you change the rear tire, unless you have one of those super-grippy tires that wears out every other weekend.

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[Guy]

Thanks for the reply.
Hopefully I won't have too much difficulty aligning the shaft into the splined socket then. Have read about some years with soft splines in the wheel, the ones in mine don't look worn, but there were a few filings in the hub when I took the wheel off. I'll see what they're like when I clean them up.

[Steve]

If you just do a casual inspection, even totally trashed splines will look perfect. The reason for that is that the splines are longer than the engagement area, and you will be looking at the untouched ends with your quick inspection. You will need to take the hub out of the wheel to look at it properly.

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[49er]

The u-joint bearings are sealed.

Assembly will be the reverse order that you took it apart.

Before putting things back together, put some Honda Moly 60 grease on the splines. It's a small cartridge that will fit in the mini grease guns, but don't bother doing that. Just pop the cap and use a screw driver or flat wooden applicator stick to get a bit to put on the splines. Be careful that you don't get any on your clothes, it's hard to get out. Don't just run down to Auto Zone to get some "moly grease", either. A grease can contain as little as 4% molydenum disulphide and still be called "moly". That is OK for parts that slide, but the splines have different needs, as they only squeeze against each other, and need cushioning.

Don't put the tube away yet, you will need to put some on the splines for the rear wheel, too. Before applying it to the wheel splines, clean them out and inspect them. If your bike is an '82 or early '83, they may be worn and on the verge of failure. Other years seem to be OK. When you apply the Moly 60 to the splines, you don't need a whole lot of it. Basically just put it on like a heavy coat of paint. You should do the wheel splines every time you change the rear tire, unless you have one of those super-grippy tires that wears out every other weekend.

.

Good advice. Just a correction re the spline info. They don't just squeeze against each other, the shaft spines do slide inside the diff coupling as the rear wheel travels through an arc during differing riding conditions, compression and rebound at the shocks. Granted, the movement is minimal.

Guy, I think that you will find it near impossible to align the spines up without removing the pumpkin first. There is no natural lead into the splined coupling, which will be your problem.
While it's apart, you may decide to replace the 2 seals that are located in the coupling area.

[Steve]

Good advice. Just a correction re the spline info. They don't just squeeze against each other, the shaft spines do slide inside the diff coupling as the rear wheel travels through an arc during differing riding conditions, compression and rebound at the shocks. Granted, the movement is minimal.

Yeah, my comments were more toward the wheel splines, but you are correct, the driveshaft splines do move ever so slightly.

.

[wilmas2cool]

Ditto on close inspection of the rear end splines, I have been totally faked out before by being in a hurry.

[Guy]

Steve,
I took out the driven joint and had a good look after cleaning it up with a wire brush. Yeah, splines look to be about 25% worn over 3/4 of their length. Does that mean imminent faiure or will I get a bit more use out of it while I source another?

49er,
I figured the splines would be tricky to line up aright, I'll put the shaft into the swingarm first.
What seals do you mean, are they on the output shaft?

[49er]

Steve,
I took out the driven joint and had a good look after cleaning it up with a wire brush. Yeah, splines look to be about 25% worn over 3/4 of their length. Does that mean imminent faiure or will I get a bit more use out of it while I source another?

49er,
I figured the splines would be tricky to line up aright, I'll put the shaft into the swingarm first.
What seals do you mean, are they on the output shaft?

Sorry for the delay.

http://www.alpha-sports.com/spst/1979%20GS850G/35.gif

The seals are #5 and #14. I wouldn't touch #14 unless you find serious leakage past #5.