Starting Relay

[Kitten Tooth]

I'm restoring a 1982 GS300L D model and i wanted to know if the starter relay/solenoid was necessary for the bike to run. I figured i would just push it and pop the clutch but it wouldn't fire (had to push the beast all the way back up the hill) I see that there is a positive black lead coming out from under the cover that goes over the starter. I figured when you hook up the solenoid, that black lead goes on one post on the solenoid and the extra end on the positive terminal battery cable goes on the other post. After that, you hook up this yellow wire with a green stripe on it that is near the battery box area on the harness. I found a few other yellow wires with a green stripes in the head light bucket that seem to all be connected with the kill switch and the switch that is in the clutch lever. I was wondering if i ran an extra lead from the yellow with green next to the battery box to the yellow with green behind the headlight bucket if it would complete a circuit and the bike would fire. I already ordered the part yesterday but i really want to start that bike for the first time in more than 20 years if i wire everything up like that though, will it all work out and will the bike start?

Thanks,
Kitten Tooth

[argonsagas]

Having the yellow/green wire attached to one post on the solenoid and a black one to the other sounds pretty good to me. A larger gauge red wire should run between a third/larger connection on the solenoid and a second red one of like diameter, but longer, connects to the second larger terminal and that wire goes to the starter.

These wires have nothing to do with how or if the bike runs.


All they do is permit completion of a circuit when you press the starter button. That pressing activates an electric charge inside the solenoid (aka relay) which then acts as a switch and internally connects the two larger wires. This action sends electricity to the starter and it continues as long as you have the start button pressed.




The main/ignition switch has wires that control the running of the engine, as well as all other electrical action on the bike.

I am not familiar with your bike but most bikes see electricity run from the ignition switch to the clutch perch/lever, which has a safety switch built into it. When the clutch lever is pulled against the handlebars, it closes the switch and that allows power to run to the start button and brings you to the paragraphs above.


Meanwhile a second wire from the main switch runs to the Kill button on the right handlebar, and from that switch a wire heads down to the ignition system itself.

There are several other connections along the way, some of them tucked inside the headlight pod and others inside the wiring harness, but the foregoing gives you a general idea of how the circuits work.

For actual work on the bike you should have a manual with circuit drawings, but you certainly can get all you need from the friendly folks on here. It is recommended that you have a decent volt-ohmmeter to check the circuits. This need not be an expensive tool, as a basic one will suffice.

When you have that tool, say so and ask for guidance through the whole procedure of testing circuits. It can be time-consuming, but is not difficult.

[argonsagas]

I am making this a second post because you suggested this bike has not run in twenty years.

If so, then it is imperative that you pull out all spark plugs and add at least a few drops of light oil (3-in1 is great) or a 5W engine oil to each cylinder BEFORE doing anything else .

One half teaspoon will suffice in each cylinder .


Let the oil sit there for several minutes, preferably longer. An hour is good.

Do not replace the spark plugs.

The main engine oil should be dumped and replaced, and a new filter installed.

Place a bit of rag in each spark plug hole.

You can then put the transmission in neutral, connect the battery and then turn the engine over several times. This allows time for some oil to reach the top rings in each cylinder and perhaps go around them a bit, and it provides a basic lubrication to the cylinder walls, which have been devoid of oil for twenty years.

Turning over the engine without plugs means no load, and that permits oil to move into and around the necessary areas with nominal friction and wear.

After that, remove the rag and install plugs.......you may want to consider new ones, but if not be sure to clean the old ones and inspect them for damage before re-installing. Put one drop of oil on the threads before installing.

[Sean45]

Hi guys, I'm replacing my starter solenoid on my 81 GS850GT and I was dumb and didn't take a picture of what wires went where... I have the wires connected to the post but then there are 3 wires that connect to where the solenoid is mounted and a big fat red wire that goes from the post to (I think) the right side. The picks in my GS manual are no help what so ever... Could someone post a few pictures? I would GREATLY appreciate it.

Thanks,

Sean

[Sean45]

Didn't mean to Hi jack the thread, I think i got the solenoid wired correctly,( I think) there should be a wire that runs from the solenoid to the positive terminal on the battery right? and then two wires from somewhere in the bike that run to the negative battery terminal?

[lucabond]

There should be a heavy gauge wire from the battery to a big post on the solenoid. Then a second heavy gauge wire from the other large post to the starter. And a smaller wire usually green yellow to the smaller post. If you have a wire that runs to the battery ground that should go to the nut that holds the solenoid to the bike that grounds the case of the solenoid which is ground.
As for Kitten its very hard to hold the clutch in while kicking her over so most folks bypass the clutch switch, just follow the wires from the clutch inside the headlight shell unplug it and connect the 2 wires from the harness together bypassing the switch and make sure your in neutral before starting.
Good luck to both.