Stator replacement help?

[arie]

update-

With much effort, several razor blades, gasket remover, and scotch-brite pads, I have removed the remnants of the original gasket. busy work, my favorite! {not!}

For reasons unclear to me, I could not get the image of the gasket to scale correctly, { hp printer?} so I scanned the stator cover and that will be what I use to cut mt gasket.

I will try West marine for replacement screws- allens if they have them. Do not want to spend $22 plus as I only want these 7 of the bunch offered in the package by Z1.

Basscliff, tell me - what is the difference between thead sealer and thread locker?

I will be completing this by the end of the week barring more distractions.

[chef1366]

Here is a list of machines that you can buy used stators from
Part 21584 fits the following machines:
1983 Suzuki GR650 Tempter
1982 Suzuki GS1000S Katana
1983 Suzuki GS1100ES
1983 Suzuki GS1100S Katana
1983 Suzuki GS450E
1982 Suzuki GS450GA
1983 Suzuki GS450GA
1985 Suzuki GS450GA
1980 Suzuki GS550E
1980 Suzuki GS550L
1981 Suzuki GS550L
1982 Suzuki GS550L
1982 Suzuki GS550M Katana
1981 Suzuki GS550T
1981 Suzuki GS650E
1982 Suzuki GS650E
1981 Suzuki GS650G
1982 Suzuki GS650G
1983 Suzuki GS650G
1981 Suzuki GS650GL
1982 Suzuki GS650GL
1983 Suzuki GS650GL
1983 Suzuki GS650M Katana
1980 Suzuki GS750E
1981 Suzuki GS750E
1982 Suzuki GS750E
1980 Suzuki GS750L
1981 Suzuki GS750L
1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
1982 Suzuki GS750T
1983 Suzuki GS750T
1979 Suzuki GS850G
1980 Suzuki GS850G
1981 Suzuki GS850G
1980 Suzuki GS850GL
1981 Suzuki GS850GL

[BassCliff]

Basscliff, tell me - what is the difference between thead sealer and thread locker?

Hi,

Thread locker is like glue that holds the bolt hard in the hole. Depending on what color you use (red, blue, purple) you may need an impact driver and/or heat to take the bolt out again.

Thread sealer is a very light duty adhesive that basically stops anything from leaking along the threads of the bolt. But it works good for those bolts that don't require a lot of torque and keeps them from loosening up due to vibration. I also use it on my valve cover bolts because they use so little torque due to my Real Gasket.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[LarryA_Texas]

stator wires

Before spending $100 on a new stator take a look at the wires.

Maybe someone here has a better suggestion, but there are three wires that are attached to the winding, and if they are burned through and shorting out against the engine case you have a very inexpensive fix if you can replace the wires. I've done it with success. Now sure about longevity, but it worked.

[arie]

13.9 is my new favorite number!!

The gasket came out ok, and I even punched the holes in the right place, which worried me since a slight deviation might have lead to headaches.

I went to West Marine, who usually have a great supply of all sorts of hardware, and they did not have the Allen head bolts to replace the Phillips screws for the cover. I then went to Ace hardware, and they did have them in all 3 sizes necessary for this cover.

I installed the Electrosport Industries Stator, and discovered that they provide shorter leads than stock. the gauge appeared to be better though ca. 16 vs 18 stock?? I soldered 14 gauge extensions and gold-plated spade clips for the reg/rec.

Paint thinner and scotch-brite pads removed the remnants of the gasket much easier than using a razor blade fwiw.

Inside the case, after cleaning, I routed the wire through the guides and applied thread ~locker~ inside the case. For the Allen bolts, I used thread sealer { actually "form a seal" } and not thread locker.

BassCliff, on your webpage, you mention using thread locker, and in this thread you suggested thread sealer. ok, so you confused me a little, but I figured it out and still appreciate the help <ggg>

The third starter motor cover bolt was by far the most difficult part of the process, but after that was set, and the gas tank put on, the baby fired up beautifully!

I went over the bike, and then took her for a spin. Wow! 12.8 at idle and 13.9 no matter the speed. { ok, so I may have re-interpreted the speed "limit" <g> }

But finally, a long over-due repair. Phew!

and Larry - you may have been right, because the stator was putting out very nominal voltage, but I did not feel up to tracking it down. Weird really - just slightly less than the bike was consuming, so I was able to ride for ca. 1 hr before the battery was starting to drain, but more than if I disconnected the stator and ran off the battery alone.

... now if only there was a way to repair the worm gear for the speedo....

[Raven457]

congrats on a successful repair

[BassCliff]

BassCliff, on your webpage, you mention using thread locker, and in this thread you suggested thread sealer. ok, so you confused me a little, but I figured it out and still appreciate the help <ggg>

Hi,

I use thread locker on the screws inside the cover that hold the stator in place.

I use thread sealer on the case bolts.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Jagir]

this may be a stupid stator question

Do you need to drain the engine oil to crack open the stator cover?

BTW, congrats on the repair. I'm inspired.

[Steve]

Do you need to drain the engine oil to crack open the stator cover?

Not if you put a 2x4 under the left side of the centerstand.
Although the bike will still be stable, it helps to use a strap from the frame or front wheel, back to the centerstand to keep it from accidentally folding.


.

[chef1366]

I never use anything but a small bowl under the stator. Not that much oil comes out.

[Octain]

I never use anything but a small bowl under the stator. Not that much oil comes out.

Should the drained oil be reinstalled?

[Jagir]

Should the drained oil be reinstalled?

I need an oil change anyways, but i can only assume that yes, you would reinstall or top up your oil.

[arie]

Jagir -

I followed the recommendations of the fine folks here, and did so. I drained via the top drain, not the bottom one. I kept the drain pan under the open case, because it continued to drip ever so slightly, and when completed, re-used the oil. { I had done a change very recently, seemed a shame to waste...

I btw, am no where near as brave as Steve <ggg> { no 2x4 }

[Steve]

Jagir -

I followed the recommendations of the fine folks here, and did so. I drained via the top drain, not the bottom one. I kept the drain pan under the open case, because it continued to drip ever so slightly, and when completed, re-used the oil. { I had done a change very recently, seemed a shame to waste...

I btw, am no where near as brave as Steve <ggg> { no 2x4 }

TOP drain?

Bottom drain?

I know of only ONE drain on most bikes, but I think the 650s do have two, but they are both on the bottom of the pan.

By the way, there is NO bravery involved. That bike is still very solid, sitting on the 2x4.

.