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Stator Replacement, should I be concerned about the R/R?

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    Stator Replacement, should I be concerned about the R/R?

    Let me start off by saying this site is awesome and has given me just about all the information I would need to work on my new (to me) 1982 Suzuki GS650G.

    But now I have an actual question...I'll start with the background...

    I was unable to keep a charge on my battery (tested good in a shop) when riding and tracked it down to the battery not receiving recharge voltage when the bike was running.

    13V when battery fully charged, bike off.
    12.1V when bike is on and idle.
    12.7V at 5000RPM's

    So obviously not the 13.8-14.4V needed for charging on the fly (I discovered this problem 15 miles from home).

    I ran through the awesome stator flow chart and passed the first two tests on test phase B but on the third I got the following readings at 5000RPM's:

    1st Phase : 70V AC
    2nd Phase : 18V AC
    3rd Phase : 70V AC

    So obviously one one my three phases is messed up, hence a bad stator. I have a new one on order and am gearing up for the replacement (BikeCliff guide for the win!).

    So onto my actual question/fear.

    Should I be concerened that the R/R is the actual problem and was what caused the stator to fail? It seems like a lot of bikes seem to go that way. I ran through the phase C of the flow chart and was able to get acceptable readings on half of the tests. The other half of the diode tests I got only OL, but I assumed I was doing it wrong. The R/R looks like the stock since it has the W/R, W/B, Y phase wires.

    Can the R/R, if its bad, kill my new stator quickly or will I have enough time to replace it after testing the new stator and not getting charge on my battery?

    Thanks in advance...I tried to include all the pertinant numbers and will try and include a picture too soon as I know you all love that .

    #2
    The important thing with the R/R is to make sure it's properly grounded. The factory wiring leaves a lot to be desired in this regard. In terms of R/R's in general, the stock pieces are pretty cheap and tend to run hot since they are so small. Just about any R/R will work after you adapt the wiring to work with your bike so many of us have gone the Honda route since they equiped their bikes with better R/R's than Suzuki used on the GS bikes. Check the archives for more details, there are lots of different threads on this subject.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      When I first was getting GS info here, many years ago, I decided to just replace my stuff with Electrex (spelling) before I had any problems with charging.
      After reading those stator papers, I decided to get "pro active".

      I also have redone most all of the related connections, just to be on the safe side.

      Comment


        #4
        Gotcha, maybe i'll just buck up and get a new R/R since it is definitely an easy replacement...then I won't have to worry about more possible failure.

        I'll go back and confirm it is a stock R/R and feel better about it in the pro-active column ^_^.

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