But now I have an actual question...I'll start with the background...
I was unable to keep a charge on my battery (tested good in a shop) when riding and tracked it down to the battery not receiving recharge voltage when the bike was running.
13V when battery fully charged, bike off.
12.1V when bike is on and idle.
12.7V at 5000RPM's
So obviously not the 13.8-14.4V needed for charging on the fly (I discovered this problem 15 miles from home).
I ran through the awesome stator flow chart and passed the first two tests on test phase B but on the third I got the following readings at 5000RPM's:
1st Phase : 70V AC
2nd Phase : 18V AC
3rd Phase : 70V AC
So obviously one one my three phases is messed up, hence a bad stator. I have a new one on order and am gearing up for the replacement (BikeCliff guide for the win!).
So onto my actual question/fear.
Should I be concerened that the R/R is the actual problem and was what caused the stator to fail? It seems like a lot of bikes seem to go that way. I ran through the phase C of the flow chart and was able to get acceptable readings on half of the tests. The other half of the diode tests I got only OL, but I assumed I was doing it wrong. The R/R looks like the stock since it has the W/R, W/B, Y phase wires.
Can the R/R, if its bad, kill my new stator quickly or will I have enough time to replace it after testing the new stator and not getting charge on my battery?
Thanks in advance...I tried to include all the pertinant numbers and will try and include a picture too soon as I know you all love that .
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