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Old Gasket removal - sorry another one

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    Old Gasket removal - sorry another one

    Hi guys,

    have the valve cover off for the first time to do the clearances and need some advice.

    All the bolts and screws undid easily so I thought 'this is great, they've been off in the not too distant past'. This led me to hope the gasket wasn't too old and would come away easily - but no! Its quite old and it looks like some gasket sealant was applied as well. This is my first experience with a gasket.

    So heaps of old gasket and/or glue is stuck on both the cover and the engine.

    Now I can't use any of those gasket removing solvents because of my health and my fine motor skills are gone, so I'm not confident about carefully using a razor blade or similar without scoring the surface.

    I was thinking some heat, wd40 and scotchbrite pad. Would the pad damage the surface? I also have a dremal-like tool, but most of the sanding/emery attachments would be more harsh than the scotchbrite right? Or what about something like a paint scraper?

    I'm new to all this mechanical stuff, and this is my first time inside an engine and I don't want to damage anything. Want to get this out of the way first before I tackle the valve clearances for the first time.

    Any help appreciated

    #2
    [QUOTE=Ricko19;1080286]Hi guys,




    I was thinking some heat, wd40 and scotchbrite pad. Would the pad damage the surface? I also have a dremal-like tool, but most of the sanding/emery attachments would be more harsh than the scotchbrite right? Or what about something like a paint scraper?

    Scotch brite is safe but not very effective. There is a lot of different Scotch brite out there. Fairly common here in the states are "hand pads" usually 6"x9" green and maroon color is equal to 220 or 240 grit sandpaper. Any sandpaper on a dremel tool is going to be too agressive(IMHO)

    First choice would be the softening solvent. Barring that a heat gun may help soften the sealant that was used. A hardwood scraper or a Formica sample chip can be used. Formica sample chips are available here at the Home Depot or Lowes. Both are softer than the aluminum.

    Bigbri
    sigpic

    1980 GS1000G in the shop!

    Past Bikes
    1979 GS850G
    1978 GS750
    1973 GT380

    Comment


      #3
      I feel for you. When doing the valves for the first time on my GS850 I spent a LOT of time removing the gasket, and it was HARD work. Only thing I can suggest is to take your time and get a good gasket scraper. Those wood type scrapers won't get the gasket so your best bet is a regular metal scraper and use some gasket remover goo (spray it into a cup and then dap it on with a q-tip). That gasket remover spray will eat paint so keep this in mind as you slather the stuff around.

      Good luck
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #4
        I just used a wood chisel (45 degree angle, good for scraping gaskets), then got the rest with solvent, course sandpaper, and finally a good wetsand of the surface to make it really smooth. Just watch that you don't lose any big chunks into the engine..

        Ofcourse, after 600 miles it started leaking a bit, but that could be because I reused the original gasket.

        Comment


          #5
          Your situation makes it tough to remove them in the usual way(s).

          I always use permatex gasket remover (quite volatile) and a steel putty knife on aluminum surfaces, and I have a Snap-On gasket scraper that I use on steel surfaces, as its far too sharp for alloys.

          You could try a heat gun, and a putty knife. I think using a scotch brite pad would be monotonous, and not very effective in your situation.
          Good luck, I feel for you as well!

          Jeff (teet)

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the suggestions guys - I'll have to put my thinking cap on and see what I can find around here. Makes things a bit difficult when you can't use harsh chemicals.

            cheers

            Comment


              #7
              Ricko,
              I would use a shop vac to suck out any debris that might drop into the engine cavities. You'll have some pools of oil in there that you might sop out with a rag first if you get real messy with your cleaning and leave lots of debris behind. A flexible putty knife may get some of the big pieces to peel away without gouging the surfaces. I've used the razor too, but work with the edge facing me to control it better without marring the aluminum surfaces.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by MrZig View Post
                I just used a wood chisel (45 degree angle, good for scraping gaskets), then got the rest with solvent, course sandpaper, and finally a good wetsand of the surface to make it really smooth. Just watch that you don't lose any big chunks into the engine..

                Ofcourse, after 600 miles it started leaking a bit, but that could be because I reused the original gasket.
                How did you reuse the gasket if you used a wood chisel to remove it?!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks Lurch The shop vac is a great idea! Didn't think of that. No doubt some stuff will end up down there - it will with me doing it anyway

                  Will look around for something softer than the aluminium to try and scrape it off with.

                  cheers

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