Stator Question

[Ghostgs1]

Hi guys, Just starting to look into charging problem on my 1979 1000S. I ran Suzuki manuals tests which indicate the R/R and stator are bad. My question is this, if I check all three phases of the stator wiring and have readings of .9 - 1.0 ohms between any of the leads and have no measurable continuity from any lead to the armature or core of the stator, can it still be bad? My head tells me it is probably good and I don't want to change it out needlessly. Anyone have an answer? Looking at the stator papers, I think the answer is that the stator is ok. Thanks, Ray

[SqDancerLynn1]

If there is no reading to ground that's good. DId you check AC output should be 60-80 volts AC

[Ghostgs1]

Hi Lynn, I forgot about looking at the stator papers and used the test procedure in the Suzuki manual. It asks that you run the engine a 5k and test voltage on each lead. As non of mine had any reading, I decided to remove and replace the stator, but there is not any indication of excessive heating. I'm thinking about reinstalling it and replacing the R/R. Do you think there is any danger to the system if I do? Thanks, Ray

If there is no reading to ground that's good. DId you check AC output should be 60-80 volts AC

[Nessism]

Hey Ray,

Your bike has a seperate regulator and rectifier, not combined. Many people ditch the indual pieces and get a combined unit...but in your case you have a collectable bike so you might want to keep the bike intact. BTW, I have the individual R and R parts if you want them (drop me a PM to discuss as appropriate).

Ed

[lucabond]

When you do that test you unplug the stator and check between all 3 leads looking for the voltage. In other words connect 1 lead from your meter in ac setting to 1 wire and touch the other 2 then connect to the other 2 and check the voltage. If you get the proper voltage it's not the stator. Good luck

[Ghostgs1]

Thanks for the encouragement and advice. I'm in the process of cutting a gasket and reinstalling the stator. I'll follow the stator papers this time. Thanks, Ray

[Ghostgs1]

Rats!!!!

Reinstalled stator and tested using the Stator Papers procedure. Same results. Isn't that sort of the definition of insanity? Now I need to replace both stator and R/R. To add insult to injury, the solenoid quit on me while trying to do this test!! Thanks for the help. Ray

[gane]

Rats

Ray, Unfamiliar w'/ your' bike, but... 3 phase perm. magnet charging systems usually have these things in common. In trouble shooting, all 3 legs need to have very high resistance above ground IE; Meg ohms. 2nd resistance leg to leg to leg be low.. (usually @ .3 ohms.) you seem to have these.. since these are met, the next logical question is, is the rotor spinning? Still a magnet? Impact/high heat can deguase even a perm. magnet (tho I never seen it) it's a WAG, (wild assed guess) but I would confirm rotor is tight to crank. 3rd, once you can sustain life again, read each stator lead individually to ground VAC. typical is 10-20 vac per leg idle up to 60-80 vac per leg @ 4 grand and progessing to 120-180 vac per leg at whatever you choose to rev to unloaded. I see many posts where owners are attemping to get readings from leg to leg and fail to reason why... many period suz's run a goofy charging system wherein, 1 leg of stator output is run thru handle bars switches and headlight before all 3 legs become rectified/regulated and actually charge battery. Personal experiance is that stators are the most common failure w/period GS's, hope there's something here you can use, luck G

[Steve]

... many period suz's run a goofy charging system wherein, 1 leg of stator output is run thru handle bars switches and headlight before all 3 legs become rectified/regulated and actually charge battery.

Please look at your schematics more carefully, THIS IS NOT QUITE TRUE.

Yes, one of the wires from the stator does disappear into the main wiring harness. In earlier bikes that had an actual working headlight switch, that stator wire would go through the main harness, through a connector, to a second set of terminals in the headlight switch, then back through the main harness and back down to the r/r. CURRENT FROM THAT WIRE NEVER WENT THROUGH THE HEADLIGHT IN THE PROCESS.

In later bikes that had no headlight switch, the stator wire still disappeared into the main harness and went to a connector, but had a short jumper that sent it back down to the r/r since there was no headlight switch to send it to.

The purpose of that extra leg was to remove some of the charging capacity when the headlight was off.

.

[Ghostgs1]

Yes!!!!

Received my new stator and r/r from Electrosport and installed it this morning. I was able to install the r/r in the original location but had to put a spacer between the starting relay and the mounting panel just to be sure no problems would occur there. All is good with the world again, 13.5 v. at idle and 14.5 at 4,000 rpm and it passes the stator papers fault chart on the first try. I.m pretty happy now and ready to ride, damn the rain had to come today. Thanks for your help fellas. It appears that Electrosport r/r is really not new but may be a rewind, as the metal armature is scratched and really doesn't look new. That's ok with me though as there is no functional difference. Ray

[portdave]

Received my new stator and r/r from Electrosport and installed it this morning. I was able to install the r/r in the original location but had to put a spacer between the starting relay and the mounting panel just to be sure no problems would occur there. All is good with the world again, 13.5 v. at idle and 14.5 at 4,000 rpm and it passes the stator papers fault chart on the first try. I.m pretty happy now and ready to ride, damn the rain had to come today. Thanks for your help fellas. It appears that Electrosport r/r is really not new but may be a rewind, as the metal armature is scratched and really doesn't look new. That's ok with me though as there is no functional difference. Ray

Glad you got it figured out Ray. Happy riding!!!!