Locktite goes on shaft before rotor, or only rotor nut nut?

[Guest]

I used the OEM puller tool for my bike with a crescent wrench holding the puller tool and a 1/2" impact cranking (in reverse) on the puller push bolt. It came right off after about 15 seconds of impact action at about 160 PSI.

What surprised me was there was no residue of any locktite or anything. Maybe the PO did not use any? I'm pretty sure he had the starter clutch off before as it looks like someone tried to repair it with a welder.

After reading all the threads with the word "rotor" in the subject line, I'm still confused: Does the red locktite go on the crank shaft before I slide on the rotor, or does the locktite only go on the rotor nut? Red on the shaft but blue on the nut?

I got the rotor nut off with the same impact tool. I notice many said they had trouble getting the nut off with the rear wheel spinning but I had someone stand on the rear brake pedal and I had no trouble. My bike does not have a center stand, used side stand only, so the rear wheel was on the ground too. I appreciate any tips and tricks for re-assembly.

Other related threads on this

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=148513

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=146070

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=148596

THANKS!

-Bob

[onchiman]

When I did mine recently I put the red loctite on the bolt only. I don't think there originally was anything on the shaft, at least not that I could tell. I imagine it would be a real bear to remove in the future if the loctite was on the shaft too.

[Suzuki_Don]

Definitely no Loctite on the shaft. I had to make up a heavy duty slide hammer to remove my rotor as the shaft had heaps of Loctite applied to it. It was literally glued on. Rely on the taper to hold it in place. Don't bodgy it up with glue. If the taper is not in good condition then do something about it.

[littleroot]

Definitely no Loctite on the shaft. I had to make up a heavy duty slide hammer to remove my rotor as the shaft had heaps of Loctite applied to it. It was literally glued on. Rely on the taper to hold it in place. Don't bodgy it up with glue. If the taper is not in good condition then do something about it.

OK, so in the countless threads where people are saying they needed heat (mapp gas) to get the rotor off they are talking about the rotor *NUT*, and not the rotor?

[Agemax]

locktite on the bolt only. not the crankshaft. the key to a good fit of the rotor to the crankshaft is valve grinding paste. apply the fine paste and then spin the rotor by hand until you get a nice grey finish evenly, this ensures a good bond between crank and rotor but also eases removal

[barmstro]

I'm still fighting to get the rotor off,so I won't be using any loctite putting it back.Maybe on the nut.