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    Gas Tank Electrolysis....

    This one wasn't so bad...



    Two days cooking is all it took.

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

    #2
    nice work Tom I have a touch of rust in this 750B tank, ive tried the electrolosis before and it worked, but on this one, since the tank is in OTHERWISE PERFECT shape, I dont want to risk the paint, so I might try soaking it full of EvapoRust and see what happens... Ive never tried the electorolosis on a tank that had good paint? You think it would mess it up??

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      #3
      Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
      nice work Tom I have a touch of rust in this 750B tank, ive tried the electrolosis before and it worked, but on this one, since the tank is in OTHERWISE PERFECT shape, I dont want to risk the paint, so I might try soaking it full of EvapoRust and see what happens... Ive never tried the electorolosis on a tank that had good paint? You think it would mess it up??
      No, not a problem. Everything happens on the inside.
      Unless you let the tank fall down along a brick wall or something. :-(
      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

      Life is too short to ride an L.

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        #4
        Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
        No, not a problem. Everything happens on the inside.
        Unless you let the tank fall down along a brick wall or something. :-(
        Ok, I just wasnt sure that since we're basicly running a charge thru the body of the tank, if it would cause the paint to detach or curl or anything like that..

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          #5
          Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
          Ok, I just wasnt sure that since we're basicly running a charge thru the body of the tank, if it would cause the paint to detach or curl or anything like that..
          Dude, it's 12 volts. Nothing happens. The outside stays dry, there's nothing going on.
          Just don't drop the tank. It's heavy when it's full of water.
          You do need a bare metal place to attach the negative clamp, I would scrape some paint off the mount where the bolt goes in the back.
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

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            #6
            Are you guys filling the tank with solution or immersing the whole tank?

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              #7
              Just fill the tank, if you immerse the whole thing all the paint will come off.
              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

              Life is too short to ride an L.

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                #8
                Are you using the A&H Washing Soda stuff in yours Tom or something else??

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                  #9
                  Washing soda, it is carbonate of soda. Swimming pool places have it to.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

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                    #10
                    Looks good Tom. Did you look inside though the petcock hole and fuel sender holes? Put a flash light over the filler hole and peer inside though the other holes to see if all the rust is gone. Electrolysis works but my understanding is that the metal surface needs line of site access to the anode (or is it the cathode?) to remove all the rust. My opinion is to seal over the metal with with a Por-15 kit but that's just me.
                    Last edited by Nessism; 09-11-2009, 09:18 AM.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                      Looks good Tom. Did you look inside though the petcock hole and fuel sender holes? Put a flash light over the filler hole and peer inside though the other holes to see if all the rust is gone. Electrolysis works but my understanding is that the metal surface needs line of site access to the anode (or is it the cathode?) to remove all the rust. My opinion is to seal over the metal with with a Por-15 kit but that's just me.
                      It's clean as a whistle inside, for the anode I use a long steel rod bent to get to the back of the tank, alternating it between both rear corners.

                      I almost never use any coatings in a tank, but then again I don't let them sit outside half full of old gas for years either. Only coat them when they already have pinholes.

                      If it was going to be coated, it would be POR 15 only.
                      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                      Life is too short to ride an L.

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                        #12
                        i haven't coated my and it's been about 2 years and still no rust. Just keep gas in it and all should be fine. I cleaned mine out with Milkstone remover and i have gotten as clean as compared to the picture here. I believe mine was equally rusty as the before picture here.

                        Just another way of doing things.
                        1979 GS850G
                        2004 SV650N track bike
                        2005 TT-R125 pit bike
                        LRRS #246 / Northeast Cycles / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Hindle Exhaust / Central Mass Powersport

                        http://s327.photobucket.com/albums/k443/tas850g/

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