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    #16
    Originally posted by rapidray View Post
    If you switch to the Dyna S & the Dyna 3.0 ohm coils & wires you will pretty much ELIMINATE ignition maintenance! No points to wear & need adjustment, no condensers to fail when you are in the middle of NO WHERE! Bring your bike into the 21st century with an electronic ignition, set it, & FORGET IT!!! LOL!! Good luck with whatever you decide & I am a Dynatek dealer if you want help with the parts. Ray.
    Originally posted by don_gibb6512 View Post
    I've had two sets of stock coils and one set of practically new Accel coils go bad so it does happen. Of course, mostly to me but I've learned to live under that black cloud.
    Living under "that black cloud" is the story of my life......lol

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      #17
      Originally posted by Mike Ski View Post
      Living under "that black cloud" is the story of my life......lol
      If you are going to get coils to work with the Dyna S, the green ones are the right choice.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #18
        I have purchased more than one replacement electronic ignition module. I have also been broken down and stuck with bad sensors where the points might have been.

        Electronic ignitions can leave you stranded too. Point ignitions are more likely to need readjusting than to leave you stuck. They also give you lots of warning as they wear and close up / burn.

        No ignition system is free of potential failure. on my GS1000G in Maine, the PO replaced the Suzuki electronic ignition with a Dyna. I wonder if it was an upgrade, or if it was a needed repair.

        I would rather have electronic, but I don't mind points.
        sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

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          #19
          I also have a 79 850G. Shortly after getiing the bike one set of points went bad. I had in my tool box for about 20 years a Dyna ignition. I knew I would need it someday. Well I installed it and the bike has been trouble free since. I also have stock coils.

          Comment


            #20
            I had a stock ignition go down on a 1000G. Coils were fine but wires perished. One of the replacement Dyna greens went bad but the replaced it FOC even though it was 13 months old. Did about 8k on the Dyna S with no probs....
            1980 GS1000G - Sold
            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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              #21
              I recently had ignition problems with my 79' GS850. 1 Condensor went bad and both coils were leaking. One coil was breaking down badly when it got hot, leading to intermitent spark on 2-3 cylinders about 15 min. into a ride. I choose to purchase a new points set from Z1 Enterprises, 2 of their black Dyna Coils, and the black Dyna plug wire set. End of problem and the bike runs great. I think the Dyna S is a good unit but until now I've had good luck with the points in this bike for almost 20 yrs. and I didn't want to spend the additional $$.




              Pat
              78' GS1000EC
              79' GS850GN
              79' GS1000N
              79' GS1000EN
              81' GS1100EX

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by 850 combat View Post
                i have purchased more than one replacement electronic ignition module. I have also been broken down and stuck with bad sensors where the points might have been.

                Electronic ignitions can leave you stranded too. Point ignitions are more likely to need readjusting than to leave you stuck. They also give you lots of warning as they wear and close up / burn.

                No ignition system is free of potential failure. On my gs1000g in maine, the po replaced the suzuki electronic ignition with a dyna. I wonder if it was an upgrade, or if it was a needed repair.

                I would rather have electronic, but i don't mind points.
                what would be some signs of a points ignition failing?

                Comment


                  #23
                  well once again i would like to thank everyone for their excellent input. you guys are giving me alot to think about. i would love to go electronic, but that is gonna be a tough nut to crack right now. i really wasn't looking for a bike this year.....it kinda fell in my hands for free. after new tires, brakes, boiling and treating the tank, new fuel line and filter, new paint, and countless hours of research on this site..............the wife is gonna kill me......lol i just ordered a new set of points and condensers off of e-bay. i guess i will get the coils and possibly go with the dyna over the winter.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by Mike Ski View Post
                    what would be some signs of a points ignition failing?

                    Normal points wear makes the gap less and less as time goes on. In my experience, that will eventually cause a miss at high loads and/or high RPM.
                    sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Mike Ski View Post
                      Chef, would the 3ohm green coils work better with the dyna than the black dual output 5 ohm ones. i thought the bigger....the better.
                      Yes, bigger is usually better, but you need to make sure you are measuring the right thing.

                      Ohms are a measure of RESISTANCE to electrical current. The ignition system works with coils, that are basically just transformers. When current flows through them, a magnetic field is generated. When that current is stopped, the magnetic field collapses and a spark is generated. With a points-based ignition system, the flow of current is controlled by the points. If a LOT of current flows, there is also a little bit of sparking at the points as they open and close, so they used coils with a higher resistance to limit the current flow through the points. Unfortunately, this also limits the current through the coils and results in a less-powerful spark. With electronic ignition systems, the flow of current is controlled by transistors. With the proper selection of components (thankfully already done by the manufacturers), they can handle more current, so you can use coils with lower resistance. This lower resistance allows more current through the coils, resulting in a more-powerful spark. The electronic ignition system will also control the lower current through the higher-resistance stock coils with no problem, it just won't make the spark any bigger because the coils are still the limiting factor.

                      Now, back to your original thought ... yes, bigger is better, but you want to be concerned with CURRENT, not RESISTANCE.
                      Higher resistance will result in lower current.

                      .
                      sigpic
                      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                      Family Portrait
                      Siblings and Spouses
                      Mom's first ride
                      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by Mike Ski View Post
                        well once again i would like to thank everyone for their excellent input. you guys are giving me alot to think about. i would love to go electronic, but that is gonna be a tough nut to crack right now. i really wasn't looking for a bike this year.....it kinda fell in my hands for free. after new tires, brakes, boiling and treating the tank, new fuel line and filter, new paint, and countless hours of research on this site..............the wife is gonna kill me......lol i just ordered a new set of points and condensers off of e-bay. i guess i will get the coils and possibly go with the dyna over the winter.

                        If I were you I'd start with the new points and condensors first. Make sure that they are gapped correctly and timed to spec., and see how your bike performs. Don't forget to lube the rubbing blocks. Then check to see IF you've got a good strong spark at that time on each of of the leads to your plugs. You can us an old used plug with the groung electrode spread wide and lay it on the fins of the motor where it can get a good ground and observe the spark while cranking and while running. If you've got a good spark on all 4 cylinders and it still runs poorly you may have some carb. problems also. Also, make sure that the cylinders that weren't firing don't have fouled spark plugs now.
                        Pat
                        78' GS1000EC
                        79' GS850GN
                        79' GS1000N
                        79' GS1000EN
                        81' GS1100EX

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by GS1000S View Post
                          If I were you I'd start with the new points and condensors first. Make sure that they are gapped correctly and timed to spec., and see how your bike performs. Don't forget to lube the rubbing blocks. Then check to see IF you've got a good strong spark at that time on each of of the leads to your plugs. You can us an old used plug with the groung electrode spread wide and lay it on the fins of the motor where it can get a good ground and observe the spark while cranking and while running. If you've got a good spark on all 4 cylinders and it still runs poorly you may have some carb. problems also. Also, make sure that the cylinders that weren't firing don't have fouled spark plugs now.
                          Pat
                          thanks for the info....i just have one question. What do you mean by lube the rubbing blocks? this whole points thing is real new to me.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            The rubbing block is the portion of the ignition point that contacts the cam on the advance mechanism and opens and closes the points. Put a little heavy grease on the leading edge of this area next to the cam. Also clean the cam and apply a little lube there and on the felt applicator.

                            I found this and it may help you: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...s+installation

                            A few posts down is a link to a shop manual. You can set the points statically with merely a test light(after they are gapped correctly). Or use an electronic timing light. Make sure you turn the engine only in its forward direction with a wrench.

                            Hope this helps. Pat
                            78' GS1000EC
                            79' GS850GN
                            79' GS1000N
                            79' GS1000EN
                            81' GS1100EX

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by Mike Ski View Post
                              well once again i would like to thank everyone for their excellent input. you guys are giving me alot to think about. i would love to go electronic, but that is gonna be a tough nut to crack right now. i really wasn't looking for a bike this year.....it kinda fell in my hands for free. after new tires, brakes, boiling and treating the tank, new fuel line and filter, new paint, and countless hours of research on this site..............the wife is gonna kill me......lol i just ordered a new set of points and condensers off of e-bay. i guess i will get the coils and possibly go with the dyna over the winter.
                              Looking at your first post you mentioned your tank was full of rust. Have the rust particles contaminated the petcock and carbs? This would lead to ruff running and should addressed as one of the first orders of business.
                              A new petcock is about 45.00 from Z-1. Carb cleaning is well documented on this site with tutorials on Bikecliff's site.
                              http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/u...00080021-1.jpg
                              1978 GS1000C
                              1979 GS1000E
                              1980 GS1000E
                              2004 Roadstar

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Stock Coils Generally reliable...

                                ...but I managed to find the rare one that failed 100 mile into an 1100 mile trip.

                                I now have Accel Super Coils but I hate them. They were originally made for H-Ds and even though they were packaged for Japanese inline fours they had to be jerry-rigged to make them fit. I like my set-up to be clean as well as functional. I am going to Dyna greenies as soon as I get to that stage in my resto. Were it not for the failure of the lone stock coil I would have just stayed with the factory units. As far as the issue of plug wires is concerned...NGK makes plug wire splicers and there are probably others out there that will do the job.

                                I used platinum plugs and they were no better performance-wise than conventional plugs. Those NGK plugs are hard to beat; I even use them in my Mercury outboard.

                                This is where I get my plugs: http://www.clubplug.net/retail_complete_ngk.html
                                Last edited by Guest; 09-14-2009, 02:51 PM.

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