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    progressive fork springs

    A while ago I got a set of progresive fork springs for me Gs1000s.
    they are 485mm long ,which is longer than stock suzuki ones,stock suzuki ones are
    421mm long,so are these the right ones i ask or do I make a spacer to make up diff.
    all totaly confused.
    please help me.

    #2
    Steve - in your S you should have 351mm (service limit 346mm) springs + a metal spacer as standard. If you want to go stock - and I've found them fine - I just sold a whole set of forks to SLR (breakers) through Ebay. Fork legs were shot (accident damage to mudguard mountings) but the internals were fine.
    79 GS1000S
    79 GS1000S (another one)
    80 GSX750
    80 GS550
    80 CB650 cafe racer
    75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
    75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

    Comment


      #3
      Do the progressive ones fit in the fork leg? You say the progressive is longer than stock but then talk about making a spacer to take it up - are they longer or shorter than your stock ones?

      You can always try it & see. No problem to make up a PVC pipe spacer (use a washer at each end) to take up any added space. Test carefully!

      Dan
      1980 GS1000G - Sold
      1978 GS1000E - Finished!
      1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
      1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
      2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
      1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
      2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

      www.parasiticsanalytics.com

      TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

      Comment


        #4
        Have the PCV pipe stick out of the forks 3/4 to 1 inch with the forks fully extended.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
          Have the PCV pipe stick out of the forks 3/4 to 1 inch with the forks fully extended.
          I think the Progressive units are intended to be used without a spacer.

          Comment


            #6
            Oooooooops

            Originally posted by hampshirehog View Post
            Steve - in your S you should have 351mm (service limit 346mm) springs + a metal spacer as standard. If you want to go stock - and I've found them fine - I just sold a whole set of forks to SLR (breakers) through Ebay. Fork legs were shot (accident damage to mudguard mountings) but the internals were fine.
            Thanks wally
            I got the length from a Gs1000 Haynes manual which says 421mm.
            my genuine gs1000 manual one says 351mm ,what you said m8,so couldnt I shim it out with washes
            in stead of tube as havent got access to a lathe.
            Dont suppose anyone knows the length of the spacer before I pull it apart again .

            Thankyou
            for the help again.

            Comment


              #7
              You can shim it with washers but it will be heavy. Go to B&Q & pick up a length of thick walled PVC water pipe. There is one that is exactly the right size (this is what progressive give you should they put a spacer in the kit). I think it's the 3/4" bore stuff.
              Cut to length. Use a washer at each end of the PVC & Bob's your uncle. Make sure your cut is straight as otherwise it's a bugger to get the fork caps back on.

              Progressive recommend you have the spring + spacer length equal to the top of the tube when fully extended. This then equals about 3/4" to 1 " preload by the time you've screwed the cap in. Add more or less spacer as desired (you do need some preload so you can't have spring +spacer less than the bottom of the threads for the cap).

              I had my bikes set up as per their instructions & it was fine. Worked loads better than stock. My 78 Skunk has a little more preload (about 1/2") & that's ok too but you can feel the increase in stiffness in inital stroke. 15w fork oil filled to 140mm from the top of the tube (fully compressed) again as per instructions from progressive (which matches stock in this case).

              I weight about 11.5 stone.

              Cheers,

              Dan

              Dan
              1980 GS1000G - Sold
              1978 GS1000E - Finished!
              1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
              1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
              2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
              1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
              2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

              www.parasiticsanalytics.com

              TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

              Comment


                #8
                You need to install the Progressive springs and then measure how far below the top of the fork tube they are. Standard procedure for these springs is to cut the spacers so it’s flush with the top of the fork tube before the top cap is installed. If you are 6’5” and built like a football player, like chef, you might want to set up the spacers to stick out the top of the forks some. When installing the cap the springs will be compressed somewhat which will set ride height. Trying to determine spacer length by calculation is a crap shoot, you are better off just making the spacers on the fly from PVC tubing.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #9
                  Oooooooooooooh

                  Thanks
                  For reply "will have a go and try again soon" do I need to put air in the forks with the new springs fitted.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The PS-1106 springs for my GS1000E indicate they require no preload.
                    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I used 20wt fork oil. I hope I didn't go to heavy. My spacers extend about 1/16 inch over the tubes. I guess I'll find out how this setup works when I get it out on the road

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by crapwacker View Post
                        I used 20wt fork oil. I hope I didn't go to heavy. My spacers extend about 1/16 inch over the tubes. I guess I'll find out how this setup works when I get it out on the road
                        20W oil is quite thick, stock was in the 10 - 15W range.
                        Ed

                        To measure is to know.

                        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                          20W oil is quite thick, stock was in the 10 - 15W range.
                          Is there any way to 'thin' what I put in, or just drain and fill with different weight?
                          Last edited by Guest; 09-22-2009, 04:01 AM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Drain out a measured qty & replace with something lighter... If you mix it 50/50 with 5w or 7.5w then you'll be somewhere close.
                            1980 GS1000G - Sold
                            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                            Comment


                              #15
                              On the other hand, if you mix, you will always be guessing.

                              Just buy the right stuff, (you are going to have to buy the thinner stuff to mix, anyway) and know what you are putting in.

                              .
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                              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
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                              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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