Carb tuning

[outlawfox13]

I would say it is about 95% but this is also my first bike. I have plenty of power, but I know if I Vac-sync it I will have it all down.

About the bashing, I do agree that they needed to be soaked longer(and I appriciate the knowledge and know -how to explain they needed it), thats why I re-did it. I feel that I am being relayed as not doing it right if it is not done the same way as someone else. I know that the parts washer is good for this, that is why they are made. Also it has fresh fluid in it.

I just don't want some one to not read what I wrote, and just go off somthing else. Yes I should have saoked it longer the first time. I have learned this by having to do it twice, but to bring it up again after I have saoked it correctly I would have to call bashing.

I do have resourses to use so why not use them. I am not a rich man that is why I bought this bike, and not a brand new one(I also like to work on stuff) So far in total I have spent $650.00 on it thats even with the titleing fees.

So if there is no one local who can lend a hand, then I will have to build me a hame made one.

Thanks again for all the help and tips.

[Octain]

All Im saying is, I dont think sync'ing the carbs is gonna fix the problem.
If that thing wont screem up to about 8k then you're about 50% in my opnion. Cause thats where these bikes really shine.

Remind me, pods, stock exhaust? Change the jets?

[outlawfox13]

I have no Idea if it was jetted, but it does have pods and I put a 1000L exhaust on it cause the PO had an 850 exhaust on it and the flanges did not fit correctly. The 1000L exhuast has baffles removed I think.

Now the bike does scream up to about 8k once warmed up.
Prior to that its a lil sluggish.

How do I tell if it was jetted?

And how do I know if it is for what I am running?

Also if a bike does not need vaccumed sync then why does it say to do it in the manual?

I did a good bench sync, and the bike runs good, but I can tell its not at full power. I am pretty positive once it is Vac sync'd then it will be all good.

[Octain]

If you're positive then have it done.
Its not gonna make that much difference, if any at all.

[almarconi]

How do I tell if it was jetted?

Open your carbs, remove the jets and read the numbers on them. With pods and pipe you will need to increase your main jet and shim or replace your needles. You will probably be better off buying a dynojet stage 3 kit for the bike.

[outlawfox13]

I'll pull em off tonight and take a look. What #'s would I be looking for if its been jetted? And what are stock #'s

[almarconi]

For your carbs

Main - 112.5
Pilot - 42.5
Float height - 22.4mm +/- 1mm
Fuel lever - 5mm +/- 0.5

[woodman]

Ill be sure & jump in next time you need help with an atitude like yours. Helping is not bashing, you are obviously new at this if you didnt check the jets to see what they were.

[outlawfox13]

Ill be sure & jump in next time you need help with an atitude like yours. Helping is not bashing, you are obviously new at this if you didnt check the jets to see what they were.

To be honest, I think you have the wrong Idea on this. I have no atitude, all I am saying is I don't appriciate it when I am asking for help and all I get is told/assumed that I have done something incorrectly. Yes I used a parts washer, that is used for cleaning oil,gas,deisel and other car/motor parts. Maybe no one else has used it before, but how are we to know it does not work if someone does not try it?

Also I am being spoken to as if I did not disassmble my carbs. I have read the directions and followed them. I even replaced the o-rings from cycleorings.com. If it's not bashing then why would it be brought up that I haven't done this? This is why I am saying that its bashing. Especially when I posted that I did replace the orings and break down the carbs.

If you were being told that you haven't done something, even though you have, then I am sure that you would believe you are being bashed. Now wether or not the person meant it in a bad way or not, then they could easily reply and say it was not meant in a harmful way. But if they chose not to then again I am left with one opion that it was bashing.

I am not on this site to start a fight or tick people off, I am here for help and advice. Since this is my first bike.

And as for checking the jets I did see that there were #'s but I did not write them down. I also did not know that it needed to be jetted because of the air filters and exhaust. I had gotten this bike for like $400 and I realized I probobly got a bad deal even though it did run. (but I was new to this)

[Larry D]

Don't worry about all the "helping"....although they actually are trying to make sure you did what was recommended.
There are alot of new folks here that say they cleaned the carbs, only to discover they just sprayed them with some carb cleaner.

Also, I didn't know that my bike was supposed to have an airbox when I first got it.....so a certain lack of knowledge is expected.

With pods, re-jetting will be required because the engine is sucking in much more air than is required with stock jetting. The air/fuel mixture is critical to proper performance. The carbs should be disassembled...again..and see what you have in there. The stamped numbers are very small. If you have a magnifying glass it will help. I took mine to Wal-Mart and borrowed the jewlery counters jewelers glass....the lady thought I was a nut, but, she let me use it and stood there while I inspected the jets. She didn't even ask what I was looking at.....

So you don't feel bashed.....I was having trouble with mine awhile back. I removed the carbs to check the jetting and someone had installed the incorrect pilot jets....I wasn't educated enough to know when I dipped them either.

I highly recommend spending as much time as you can simply reading posts concerning your bike, jetting, syncing and whatever may interest you. I currently searching and reading as much as I can find about head and base gasket replacement, as that's what I'm doing next.

Honestly everyone is trying to help...sometimes you gotta take it with a grain of salt.

[outlawfox13]

For your carbs

Main - 112.5
Pilot - 42.5
Float height - 22.4mm +/- 1mm
Fuel lever - 5mm +/- 0.5

What is the fuel lever? I dont remember reading bout adjusting that? I did check my float height and they are good. I will get the #'s from the carbs tonight.
Thanks

[Lanis]

this may sound shadetree, but I don't have gauges to sync my '82 GS650L; so I run it...hand test the heat from the dominant carb. I re-heat, then adjust the one beside it to same temp, until I get them all close to the same...it runs like a new one...hits 9k rpms quick. Hey, it worked for me and the bike ripps to high speed with very little throttle.
But, the rear brake has me stymied...can't get it pumped. Read on here to elevate the caliper and pump out the bubbles..thats next.

[almarconi]

What is the fuel lever? I dont remember reading bout adjusting that? I did check my float height and they are good.

That should be fuel level. Fuel level is critical because it effects all needle positions. It is measured by hooking up a piece of clear tubing to the float bowl outlet and filling the carbs with gas. The tube is place against the side of the bowl and the height of the fuel is measured. If its too high you are rich, too low and you are lean. Setting the float height is only the first step. Even if all four floats are set at the exact same measurement, the fuel level may not be the same. I found that out while setting up the carbs on my KZ750. I even used a digital calipers and the fuel levels came out different. The condition of your floats, needles..etc can effect the fuel level as well. It only take a minor tweek of the float tang to radically change your fuel level.

I have found that some people don't have enough smarts to admit they don't know what the f**k they are doing. There is no shame in not knowing. When you try to offer help and the person who asked the questions acts like they have all the answers, is when I get frustrated. They ask you how to do something and then when you offer suggestions, they tell YOU how to fix it.
Spend some time on this forum and you will come across these type of people. They know it all but really don't know how to fix anything. They are still trouble shooting the same problems for months or asking the same questions over and over again. Here is an example of the type of guy I'm talking about

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=146985&highlight=carbs

I think that $400 is a good price for your bike. I paid $380 for mine and it didn't run. Expect to spend some time and money getting your bike in safe ride able condition. Don't forget its 28 years old and I'm sure has seen its share of neglect.

[chef1366]

You need to learn how to read spark plugs. This will tell you if you are lean or rich.
Find out if there are baffles in the cans.
If there are no baffles I'd ether get a Dynojet kit or put a 125 main jet and shim the needle by removing the spacer over the jet needle and replacing it with washers from Radio Shack the same heigth and removing two to three of them. This will richen the needle circuit and main circuit. The idle mixture screws should be out 2.5 to 3.5 full turns out or less if you go up one on the pilot jet.
Post a good macro pic of the plugs and I could tell you more.

[outlawfox13]

Well last night I found out why my bike is not running right. Cyl 2 is not firing. I believe a lock nut may have come undone when I did the valve adjust. Since this was not a prob before I adjusted them. I figured something was missing, so I so i sprayed a lil water on the headers and noticed that one header was not hot. I also checked to see if I was getting spark and I am.

So before I check the carb #'s I am letting the bike cool over night so I can re-check valve clearences.

After that I will drain the carbs and pop the bowls off, and check the needle #'s. I will also take some pics of the plugs for ya to see.

Thanks again for the help.

I will repost later tonight.