A few weird problems

[jakeolsen]

Well to start, my bike is a 1980 GS550e. I am having a couple problems.

First when I have full choke and start it, it is idling at between 4.5k and 5.5k. What could cause this?

I am also having it die at stops a lot, and I don't think it is just poor friction zone technique. I will start off, and it will either die, or it will die when I go into two.

It doesn't seem to be holding idle very well with the choke off, even after warming up.

I have the fuel/air screw set to 2 turns out. Any chance that is a problem?

I know the carbs themselves aren't the problem because they are freshly dipped and rebuilt.

It runs great once she gets going in 2 and up. Any suggestions?

[BassCliff]

Hi,

My thoughts are inline...

Well to start, my bike is a 1980 GS550e. I am having a couple problems.

First when I have full choke and start it, it is idling at between 4.5k and 5.5k. What could cause this?

Sticky throttle cable? Air leaks in the intake system (new boot and O-rings)? Stuck choke cable?

I am also having it die at stops a lot, and I don't think it is just poor friction zone technique. I will start off, and it will either die, or it will die when I go into two.

Improperly adjusted clutch? Idle set too low? Improper carb float levels?

It doesn't seem to be holding idle very well with the choke off, even after warming up.

Air filter properly installed and lightly oiled? Valves clearances adjusted? Clogged pilot circuits?

I have the fuel/air screw set to 2 turns out. Any chance that is a problem?

The mixture screws could be 3 turns out to start with.

I know the carbs themselves aren't the problem because they are freshly dipped and rebuilt.

Did you completely disassemble the carbs and soak them in carb dip for at least 8 hours? Some soak theirs for 24 hours to be sure and get all the nooks and crannys clean.

It runs great once she gets going in 2 and up. Any suggestions?

It still sounds like a carb issue, but there's a chance that it's not. How's your spark? Have you tested your charging system? What shape is your battery in?

The suggested carb service method is this: CLICK HERE.

Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[jakeolsen]

I will work on all this. The main problem I am having is that it is very hard starting. I can hear the the starter relay click when I am trying to start it. Should I be able to?

[jakeolsen]

Would uneven float levels cause it to be difficult to start? I haven't adjusted them, so I am sure they could probably be off.

[tkent02]

I will work on all this. The main problem I am having is that it is very hard starting. I can hear the the starter relay click when I am trying to start it. Should I be able to?

It would be a lot harder to start if there were no click.

[Big T]

I will work on all this. The main problem I am having is that it is very hard starting. I can hear the the starter relay click when I am trying to start it. Should I be able to?

Yes you should, but it's typically drowned out by the engine starting up

[Big T]

Would uneven float levels cause it to be difficult to start? I haven't adjusted them, so I am sure they could probably be off.

Jake,

While there are many possible causes as outlined above, this question leads me to believe you did not follow the carb cleaning instructions completely.

We see this all the time"I dipped my carbs and they still aren't right" Then, after doing it right, their bike miraculously works perfectly.

So, is it time for round #2 on the carbs? With new O rings?

[jakeolsen]

I followed the rest of the carb guide completely. The only reason I didn't set the floats is because every thread that I looked up on the subject gave a different height, so I was confused. every single rubber piece in the carbs was replaced, as were all jets, needles, and even screws.

[Steve]

The only reason I didn't set the floats is because ...

That line usually comes right after this one:

"I dipped my carbs and they still aren't right"

OK, so your carbs are "freshly dipped". How long were the carbs in 'the dip'? The can recommends 15 to 30 minutes, but most of us that have done a set or two of carbs have found that 15 to 30 hours is what does the trick. That will soften up any crud in the small passages in the carbs so you can blast them out with carb cleaner spray (don't forget your safety glasses), then further flush them out with compressed air.

After the carb bodies and jets are spotlessly clean, re-assemble the carbs with your new o-rings and set the float levels. The recommended setting in the factory manual is 22.4 mm, +/- 1.0 mm. That is measured from the gasket surface (not the gasket) on the carb body to the top of the curve (not the top of the float) while the carb is inverted.

Here is how and where you should measure it:



.

[jakeolsen]

Alright. I appreciate the help, but I would not be asking for help with the carbs if there was a chance they were dirty. I soaked them for THREE days while I waited for the rebuild kits to come in the mail. Then I went through three cans of carb cleaner and cleaned out the passages with my air compressor. They could not be cleaner. I even went back and spent an hour cleaning each passage that the choke draws gas from in the bowl. I will also repeat again that I replaced every removable piece from these carbs except for the bracket that holds the float needle housing in place and the floats. I checked the floats to make sure they they did indeed float and had no holes. So can we shift the blame from my carb cleaning abilities?

I will go ahead and adjust the float levels and report back. Thanks again.

[Big T]

Okay on your last post

You replaced all the jets??

With kit parts?

Stock?

Still have your originals?

[jakeolsen]

yes i still have the originals

[Larry D]

How about the valves....have you adjusted them ?

[jakeolsen]

The bike has 36k on it, so I am sure the valves need adjusting. Problem is that I'll have to order all of the gaskets before I can start that. Also, I have only adjusted the valves on a single cylinder engine, so I am a little worried about my skills, even though I am a serious DIY'er. Is it possible to do the valve adjustments and reuse the gaskets until new one's come in? Would the valves cause it to be hard to start?

[Steve]

Alright. I appreciate the help, but I would not be asking for help with the carbs if there was a chance they were dirty. I soaked them for THREE days while I waited for the rebuild kits to come in the mail.
Was that three days EACH or all four of them for a total of three days?
With other problems you mention, it sounds like they were pretty dirty, so a full day for each one would not be out of the question.
Then I went through three cans of carb cleaner and cleaned out the passages with my air compressor.
I hear this quite often and wonder "why?". I frequently manage to clean three sets of carbs on one can of spray cleaner.
They could not be cleaner. I even went back and spent an hour cleaning each passage that the choke draws gas from in the bowl.
If they were that dirty, I would suspect some other problems, too.
I will also repeat again that I replaced every removable piece from these carbs except for the bracket that holds the float needle housing in place and the floats.
You mentioned "carb kits" earlier. Sad to say, but they might be the source of your problem.
I checked the floats to make sure they they did indeed float and had no holes. So can we shift the blame from my carb cleaning abilities?
Not yet.
I will go ahead and adjust the float levels and report back. Thanks again.

The bike has 36k on it, so I am sure the valves need adjusting.
Yes, the valves are about 32,000 miles past due.
Problem is that I'll have to order all of the gaskets before I can start that.
"All the gaskets"? You only need one, maybe two.
Also, I have only adjusted the valves on a single cylinder engine, so I am a little worried about my skills, even though I am a serious DIY'er.
Do you have a service manual? BassCliff has a copy of the factory manual on his site that you can download. He also has a nice tutorial with his own pictures showing how to do it. You can also look at the bottom of my signature for information on how to get a spreadsheet that I have developed that will help you determine proper shim sizes.
Is it possible to do the valve adjustments and reuse the gaskets until new one's come in?
If this is the first time the valve cover has ever come off, there is a good chance that you will destroy it in the process. If you coat your new gasket with WD-40 or a light film of motor oil, you will probably be able to re-use it a few times. A Real Gasket will last a lifetime, if cared for properly.
Would the valves cause it to be hard to start?
Absatively, posilutely ... YES. Adjust the valves, you won't be able to get your thumb off the starter button quick enough.

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