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    Lazy way of changing fork oil?

    What's wrong w/....

    opening the drain on the bottom and then adding air to blow out the oil....fill w/mineral spirits and repeat.

    I really don't want to remove the forks.

    #2
    Take off the fork cap so they will drain.
    Nothing wrong with that.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Originally posted by andmoon View Post
      What's wrong w/....

      opening the drain on the bottom and then adding air to blow out the oil....fill w/mineral spirits and repeat.

      I really don't want to remove the forks.
      if you just want to change the oil, why all the fuss? just open the drains, let it sit for a while then fill up with new.
      1978 GS1085.

      Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

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        #4
        Let the air out first, or it will blow oil all over your wife's cat.
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

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          #5
          Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
          Let the air out first, or it will blow oil all over your wife's cat.
          my wife wont appreciate her pussy being covered in second hand fork oil haha
          1978 GS1085.

          Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

          Comment


            #6
            She might like it, you never know.
            http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

            Life is too short to ride an L.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
              She might like it, you never know.
              This one's headed the wrong way in a hurry!

              Comment


                #8
                I have always suggested bleeding off the air first to reduce the possibility of strange patters on the far wall.

                Andmoon, your idea is certainly plausible, but there is no need to use the mineral spirits. Simply drain, plug, fill.

                .
                sigpic
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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Steve View Post
                  I have always suggested bleeding off the air first to reduce the possibility of strange patters on the far wall.

                  Andmoon, your idea is certainly plausible, but there is no need to use the mineral spirits. Simply drain, plug, fill.

                  .
                  Carefully fill with exactly the stated amount in each leg
                  1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                  1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                  1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                  1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                  1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                  1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                  2007 DRz 400S
                  1999 ATK 490ES
                  1994 DR 350SES

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Big T View Post
                    Carefully fill with exactly the stated amount in each leg
                    No, that will overfill it -- all the oil never drains out. Oil volume doesn't matter -- oil LEVEL is what matters.

                    Dump in some random amount more than the needed amount, pump the forks several times to remove air bubbles, then slurp out the excess oil to the recommended level using a large syringe and a piece of hose. I use a syringe sold for mixing 2-stroke oil.

                    Most of the time, oil level is measured from the top with the springs OUT and the forks COLLAPSED all the way.

                    Make sure it's EXACTLY the same on both sides -- be consistent with your distance measuring and oil slurping techniques.
                    1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
                    2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
                    2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
                    Eat more venison.

                    Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

                    Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

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                    Comment


                      #11
                      Brian is right but although the manual states you need to be within 1mm each side I very much doubt you'll have a huge issue if you are slightly out of spec.

                      Doing it your way I would drain, measure out the right amount of oil (you could leave out 10cc or so if you want to compensate for any left in the fork) & then add it to the fork leg.

                      Now to be 100% correct, measure the height one side with a "dip stick" (It will be on an angle so make sure you slide it down the back side resting on the wall of the tube). Make sure other side measures the same. Adjust to suit.

                      The height of the oil basically controls how much air is in the fork, the air acts like an additional spring. It serves no other purpose so I can't see a slight underfill or overfill in one or both legs causing a problem. Overfilling can help to stiffen the fork, till you blow a seal!

                      Dan
                      1980 GS1000G - Sold
                      1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                      1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                      1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                      2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
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                        #12
                        Originally posted by bwringer View Post
                        Make sure it's EXACTLY the same on both sides -- be consistent with your distance measuring and oil slurping techniques.
                        And pay attentions to those dribbles as well

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hi,

                          But taking the forks off is really not that hard. You can read about my recent adventure here:

                          Install Progressive Fork Springs


                          Thank you for your indulgence,

                          BassCliff

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                            And pay attentions to those dribbles as well
                            Yup, make sure you have your boots nearby when you remove the drain plugs so that they can receive a beneficial coating of old fork oil. Helps with waterproofing.

                            I've yet to do anything involving opening up forks without making a big mess with fork oil. If I'm very lucky, I'll spill the new clean fork oil.
                            1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
                            2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
                            2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
                            Eat more venison.

                            Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

                            Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

                            SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

                            Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              DON'T remove caps if you are not on the centerstand. DON'T remove both caps unless you have a jack holding up the front of the bike.

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