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R/r wiring help please

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    R/r wiring help please

    1982 GS1100G

    I went to check the battery electro levels as part of soem PM and found them to be very low. Filled the battery and then went to check the charging system to find out if there was a problem there.
    Idle voltage was about 14.5 and it shot up to about 17.5 at 3000 rpm.

    Checked the connections to the R/R and this is what I found

    The R/R is not stock. It is a SDG sh541-12 3D
    much bigger than the stock unit which I believe is good. It has 8 wires coming from it.
    3 yellow
    2 green
    2 red
    1 black

    The connections were as follows:
    yellow wires were conected to
    1 yellow wire
    1 white Red tr
    1 white blue tr

    2 green were combined and connected to a bolt on the starter solenoid.

    2 red were combined and connected to a red wire from the harness

    1 black was connected to the neg battery terminal.

    Is this hookup correct?
    I thought the green wires were ground and supposed to be connected to the neg battery terminal.
    the black wire was a sense wire and either connected to a brake light or the positive battery terminal.(I have read discussuion on it bleeding the battery over time)
    Yellow wires were to be connected to the three yellow stator wires
    The red connected to the red wire from harness.

    What do I do with the white/red white/blue wires? Are these the ones clipped and taped off in BassCliffs tutorial?

    Electrical gurus, Please shed some light on this.

    Thanks in advance

    Jim
    GS Score Card
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    2-1100 series 1982 GS1100G In stable now
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    #2
    from memory it sounds correct except the green I think is supposed to go to a +12 source or the black ???
    Check with Dundage ?
    Last edited by Guest; 09-24-2009, 11:22 PM.

    Comment


      #3
      You are very close on your wiring. Start at the beginning, find the stator wires where they come out of the starter cover. See if just two or all three wires connect directly to the r/r. If only two of them connect directly and the third one disappears into the main harness, change it so that all three of them go direct to the r/r. It does not matter which yellow wire goes to which wire from the stator. Electrically, they are all the same.

      On the r/r, the two red wires are your + output, they should go to the battery + terminal, preferably through a fuse (about a 15- or 20-amp fuse). The two green wires should go to the battery - terminal. The single black wire is the "sense" wire, it should be connected to a wire that is switched by the ignition key. Hopefully, either the horn wire or tail light wire will be very close to battery voltage for proper sensing and regulation.

      The two wires that disappear into the main harness, I think they are the white/red and white/blue ones, can be ignored. Some have used them for other projects to keep from running new wires outside the main bundle, but they are not needed for normal running.

      .
      sigpic
      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
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      Comment


        #4
        Your wiring hookups are ok except try moving that black wire from the - to the + post on the battery and see if that fixes things. That said, I'd do what Steve suggests and bypass as much of the factory wiring as possible - hook the stator directly into the R/R and then send the + though a fuse to the battery.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

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        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

        Comment


          #5
          I don't use the Sh 541 RRs myself although I understand they work. If you find a diagram for a Honda bike cross reference it with this diagram. Note: if any RR uses a Field Coil or requires one then it will not work on the Suzuki. Or at least I would not attempt to use it.

          1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
          1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

          Comment


            #6
            To all who replied, I thank you very much.

            The R/R was wired completely wrong. I reconnected everything as you specified and now I have a nicely charging bike that tops out at about 14.5 volts and never goes any higher. No more battery boiling either.

            Heres the kicker that just makes me crazy. I talked to the PO and he said all the work was done at the DEALER. They charged him like $400.00 for a stator and R/R plus the labor to install, incorrectly!!!!

            I know better and I took the guys word for it and didn't do a full check on the electricals before I purchased the bike. I di put a meter on the battery while the bike was runnig but I didn't rev the engine, I just tested at idle. I almost got stung there and badly. I heard, "done at the dealer" and I looked at the new part and didn't pursue it any further other than it was charging at idle.

            My lesson was learned today and I have not nor will not ever let a "dealer" touch my bike.

            I put some miles on it over the weekend and all is well so far. I also purchased one of the multifunction voltage meters so I can monitor the range as I ride. I had an analog guage on my 850 and thought I'd try one of the eletronic ones with the clock and temp ect. Don't need half of the funtions but for $30.00 I'll bite.

            Thanks again,

            Jim
            GS Score Card
            4-400 Series GS's
            3-500 Series
            1-600 Series
            1-700 Series
            4-800 Series
            1-1000 Series
            2-1100 series 1982 GS1100G In stable now
            sigpic

            Comment


              #7
              Good Job

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