How to raise the dead?

[007jag]

Hello to all.
Ok I'm working toward getting my 85 GS 700ES back on the road after a 15 year sit. Some of the time she was outside and most she just sat in the garage.

The tank is at the radiator shop - trying to get all the rust out.
The forks just got pulled - to replace bad oil seals and I have some progressive suspension springs to put in.
( could use advice on getting the tubes apart, replacing the seals etc. and getting it all back together?)

A friend helped me take the carbs down & cleaned everything up and put them back together. Will they need to be synched ( spelling?) now?

That same friend is going to help me check & set valve clearance - I picked up a gasket.

I have a new Electrex R/R - this will be the 4th one and I hope the last!!
New chain, Plugs, Oil & filter, battery and brake fluid will go in.
Oh yeah I need new brake pads - I think the set now were Ferrodo and they are the 2nd set that went in about 18 years ago.

What is a good set of brake pads to get?
And does anyone know of a reasonably priced set of SS brake lines for the bike?

Now the big question - What and how should I do with the motor??
It has been sitting for 15 years and I could really use some good suggestions for bring her back to life??

Many thanks to all for guidance.
Jack

[Agemax]

you will need a new battery as well. fit all the new bits, plugs etc. replace the engine oil and filter. use cheap oil to start with just to flush any cobwebs out. after a few hours running, replace it with some decent oil and a new filter.
fire it up and see how she sounds.

as far as the rest of the bike goes, replace any thing that looks dodgy, check all bolts for tightness and corrosion, check and grease all moving parts like swingarm pivots, wheel bearings etc.

good luck and lets see some pics!!!

[tkent02]

[QUOTE=007jag;1093259]

A friend helped me take the carbs down & cleaned everything up and put them back together. Will they need to be synched ( spelling?) now?

Bench synch and then when you get it running, vacuum synch. Do this after the valves have been adjusted.

I have a new Electrex R/R - this will be the 4th one and I hope the last!!

The first one would be the last with proper maintenance on the rest of the electrical system.
Read and do:

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/FH012AA_Charging/Stator_Papers_Phase%20A.pdf

Then read the entire Stator Papers.

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm

Charging problems are almost always caused by corrosion in wiring connectors and grounds.

New chain, Plugs, Oil & filter, battery and brake fluid will go in.
Oh yeah I need new brake pads - I think the set now were Ferrodo and they are the 2nd set that went in about 18 years ago.

Most likely the master cylinders and calipers need to be taken apart and cleaned out inside to be safe, it's not that hard to do. Chunks inside the calipers can migrate up and block the return port in the MC, which can cause the brakes to lock up, sometimes even if you don't touch the brake lever. If the old chain is worn at all it needs sprockets. And you need new tires for sure.

What is a good set of brake pads to get?
And does anyone know of a reasonably priced set of SS brake lines for the bike?

Brake pads, get some sticky high performance ones, these bikes need all the help they can get. Make your own SS lines, there is info on this site.

Now the big question - What and how should I do with the motor??
It has been sitting for 15 years and I could really use some good suggestions for bring her back to life??

Clean all the leaves and things off the top of the head before pulling a spark plug. Does the engine turn freely or is it stuck? Either way I would put some Marvel Mystery Oil in each spark plug hole and let it sit a few days before starting it up. It frees things like piston rings up really well.
Put in clean cheap oil, run it a little bit and put in good oil.

Sounds like you have the right attitude about it, so many come on here whining because the POS they bought for $250 is not running right, dead battery or whatever, and only do the bare minimum to get it running again.

[Nessism]

Diesel engine oil is great for air cooled motorcycles and much cheaper than overpriced motorcycle oil. Personally, I wouldn’t worry about changing it out before 1000 miles but that’s just me.

When you did the carbs I trust you took out all the various jets and soaked the bodies in carb dip. The pilot jets are particularly prone to clogging and you need to verify the orifice is open. Cycleorings.com sells O-ring kits which are mandatory for any old GS with 28 year old o-rings inside. Also, you need to change the intake pipe O-rings since they are almost sure to leak if you don’t refresh them.

Another thing you should consider is a full brake system tear down, calipers and masters, to make sure they are not clogged with gunk, which is very likely. Only way to properly clean these parts is with a tear down, flushing by bleeding does not work.

Good luck

[fenderfreek]

Diesel engine oil is great for air cooled motorcycles and much cheaper than overpriced motorcycle oil. Personally, I wouldn’t worry about changing it out before 1000 miles but that’s just me.

Wow, that's the first time I've seen that mentioned. Does any diesel oil work, or does it matter dino/synthetic? It's be nice if I can start using that instead.

[tkent02]

Wow, that's the first time I've seen that mentioned. Does any diesel oil work, or does it matter dino/synthetic? It's be nice if I can start using that instead.

Not Diesel Oil, motor oil for Diesel engines. Huge difference.

[Agemax]

Not Diesel Oil, motor oil for Diesel engines. Huge difference.

i think he knew that, thats why he asked about dino or synthetic.

[fenderfreek]

Not Diesel Oil, motor oil for Diesel engines. Huge difference.

So we're talking like Rotella T here?

[Steve]

Yep, Rotella works great. Some of the guys use the dino in the white jug, some of us use the synthetic in the blue jug.

.

[007jag]

Big thanks for the tips & advice!

Wow SUPER Response!
Nessism, FenderFreek, Tkent02, Agemax and Steve thank you guys very much.

I actually have the manual and had to laugh when reading the fork section and it says basically "Remove" this - Like I have ever seen the inside of this stuff before - LOL.
But somehow - someway she is getting back on the road, so again my thanks to all for your help.

Ok tear down the calipers and Master cylinders, inspect & replace the bad Will Do!
Lube anyplace I can find to get a grease gun - Will Do!
Check & tighten all bolts etc. - Will Do!

On the carbs we pulled all the jets and cleaned & ran thin wire through each. Then cleaned the seat to the float & all we could reach with some carb cleaner.
Once we were done my friend checked the passages with blowing air & checking seats - It all seemed good.

The low/idle plugs were very soft - so I have replaced them

I have not replaced any O rings ???? -- Do I need to back up and get those??

The motor has been still for 15 years and I'm not familiar with Marvel mystery oil and how to use it??
Also what is this about Diesel Oil -- Where & How??

I will open & drain anything in the oil pan - install a new filter and go the cheap oil for a short time - and then repeat with good oil after a few hours running.

Basically what would be the best procedure to just get the motor to turn over?? ( before I try & start her)

Put it 1st gear and use the rear wheel to start her turning??

Anything I should be looking or listening for while doing this??

Again thanks to everyone for the help & advise.

Also I could use some advice on getting the fork tubes apart and someone said that some kind of home made tool could put together to do what the shop manual "special tool" does - I have no clue??
Regards,
Jack

[Steve]

We'll just answer these as they come:

Wow SUPER Response!
Nessism, FenderFreek, Tkent02, Agemax and Steve thank you guys very much.
No problem, that's what we do here.
I actually have the manual and had to laugh when reading the fork section and it says basically "Remove" this - Like I have ever seen the inside of this stuff before - LOL.
But somehow - someway she is getting back on the road, so again my thanks to all for your help.

Ok tear down the calipers and Master cylinders, inspect & replace the bad Will Do!
Lube anyplace I can find to get a grease gun - Will Do!
Check & tighten all bolts etc. - Will Do!

On the carbs we pulled all the jets and cleaned & ran thin wire through each. Then cleaned the seat to the float & all we could reach with some carb cleaner.
Once we were done my friend checked the passages with blowing air & checking seats - It all seemed good.
Now it's time to go back and clean them. They really need to be disassembled and DIPPED, overnight for each carb.
The low/idle plugs were very soft - so I have replaced them
If you are talking about the disks over the idle mixture adjustment screws, you don't need those.
I have not replaced any O rings ???? -- Do I need to back up and get those??
Without a doubt, YES. Contact GSR member Robert Barr at cycleorings.com for a complete kit.

The motor has been still for 15 years and I'm not familiar with Marvel mystery oil and how to use it??
Remove the spark plugs, put a few tablespoons of oil in each cylinder so that it can work its way around the rings. Let it sit for a day or two before trying to move anything. Might add a little more MMO every once in a while.
Also what is this about Diesel Oil -- Where & How??
Where? In the crankcase. How? Simple, just use it as your lubricating oil.

I will open & drain anything in the oil pan - install a new filter and go the cheap oil for a short time - and then repeat with good oil after a few hours running.
That "good oil" you will be installing is your diesel oil.
Basically what would be the best procedure to just get the motor to turn over?? ( before I try & start her)
Look at the MMO suggestion a few lines above this one. Make sure the pistons and rings are well lubed before trying to move them.
Put it 1st gear and use the rear wheel to start her turning??
If you want to use the wheel to try to turn the engine, use 5th gear, not 1st. Much easier to turn the engine that way. However, an even easier way is to remove the ignition cover on the right side of the engine and use a 19mm wrench on the end of the crank.
Anything I should be looking or listening for while doing this??
Just all the usual noises.
Again thanks to everyone for the help & advise.

Also I could use some advice on getting the fork tubes apart and someone said that some kind of home made tool could put together to do what the shop manual "special tool" does - I have no clue??
Have you done a search for "special tool" yet? There have been several posts about this, and some of them were rather recent, so they should not be too hard to find. If you have access to an impact wrench, you might not need the "special tool". If you don't have an impact wrench, you can make a tool using 1/2" all-thread rod and four nuts. Jam two nuts on each end of the all-thread, but leave about an inch of rod sticking out past the nuts. This tool will hold the damping mechanism that is inside the bottom of the fork tube while you turn the Allen screw that is outside the bottom.
Regards,
Jack

[kinnet]

Perhaps this thread will help for your forks:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=144447&highlight=Fork+Seals

You can find a picture of the homemade tool in post #11.

Good luck!

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. 007jag,

I just wanted to say "Hi" and invite you to my website where you'll find lots of GS lovin'. Please help yourself to the information I've collected.

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[007jag]

Great to get Feedback!

Hello again,
Well I picked up some Marvel Mystery Oil and put some down each spark plug hole. The plugs actually look pretty darn good and I'll let the oil sit for a couple of days and see if I can get her to roll over some.

While at the store getting MMO I looked at Diesel oil and found 5w-40 and 15W - 40,,, What weight would be right?? _ I think the manual calls for 10W-40 -- And is any brand good??

Also what brand of "sticky good" brake pads are the "hot ticket" these days?

I'm going to try my hand at getting a brake caliper apart tonight - never been inside one of those either -- Any tips??

BassCliff - thanks for the welcome.
Steve - thanks for the answers.
Kinnet - Thanks for the link!

Regards,
Jack

[Rkt-Rch]

With this web site and all the fellow gser's that bike will be back on the road in no time. I have the same bike and just brought mine back to life. I found mine with missing carbs and out in NH weather for "" years with nothing in the ports. It was frozen up when I brought her home, sprawed PB blaster down the plug holes and in the ports and let sit and repeated and worked it back and fourth (Ign bolt) and wala free and moving. I have put maybe 1100 miles on her so far and she still runs great. I don't even want to know what the cyl/rings look like LOL What part of U.S are you from?