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High compression and non-firing cylinder

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    #31
    I am also a bit confused by some of the statements that Rockford is making:
    Unless something has been changed, your '81 bike should have CV carbs. The needle jets do not have o-rings. More correctly, I should have said needle valve "O" ring; my bad!

    Haven't tried it on a 750L but I have done the carbs on my wife's 850L in about 15 minutes. I have no intention of putting it on YouTube. It takes me longer than 15 minutes to remove the seat, remove the tank, loosen and move back the air box, disconnect the choke cable, disconnect the throttle cable and remove the carbs. Getting everything back together takes me even longer. You are obviously very quick and talented and I commend you for that.

    Actually, there is a reason to stick a wire through there. I have found that if there is any moisture at all in a jet hole and you look at a light through the hole, it appears bigger than it acually is. That's interesting! I've found if there's moisture in the jet that you can't see through the hole (or holes) at all. I prefer to use a strand of copper wire as it is less likely to scratch the brass jet. This will ensure that there is no crud in the jet, slightly reducing its diameter and its ability to meter fuel flow. There's no need to stick anything through a new OEM jet, for obvious reasons, although I did inspect it as anyone would. (You must have missed the part about a new jet.)

    Nice to know you have cleaned the carbs "as best I know how". Our problem is that we hear this pretty much every day from a lot of new people that are trying to resurrect an old bike. They have no idea what they are doing, and think that merely removing the float bowls and spritzing some spray in there constitutes "cleaning the carbs". We have no idea if you fall in that category. So far, you have only mentioned cleaning the carbs, but never mentioned how, so we don't know if they were properly dipped and re-o-ringed. I mentioned that I'd "done it a dozen times on this bike and other bikes". I also said I'd "dipped and soaked them" but I didn't go into any more detail as I didn't think it was necessary. My bad. If you think I'm "new people", that's fine but you should realize that a lot of new people have a great deal of experience. (A lot of people who've been here for along time have very little. One thing has nothing to do with the other.)

    The problem may have existed before the last carb rebuild, but it might be caused by something that is plugging a passage in the carbs. If, by chance, the carbs were not thoroughly cleaned to remove that blockage, the problem would still exist. I'm not saying that your carbs are dirty, but merely pointing out that although you are convinced the problem lies somewhere else, it might still be in the carbs. I totally agree with that but I don't think removing carbs that were just "thoroughly cleaned" (as I also mentioned) would be a very prudent first step.

    I don't think the problem is with the valves, either, but I am just curious ... how long and how many miles since they were adjusted? A little over a year and 1800 miles.

    Everyone else who'd like to 'take a shot' at me is welcome but I've got some company coming and may not be able to get back to you very soon. Aloha!
    Last edited by rockford; 09-26-2009, 04:51 PM.
    1980 GS1100E, the latest of many.

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      #32
      Have you tried running it in the dark? Funny question but perhaps you have a plug wire or coil that is shorting out. I had that on a bike & I'd have never have found it if I hadn't been in a dim garage looking at it one night.... I could see the fireworks. Have you tried swapping the plug & wire from 1 to 4 yet? That really only takes 5 mins!

      Nessism & Tkent are just trying to help, no need to be sensitive. People out here on the west are so easily offended some times, I don't get it.

      I used to be able to do a needle clip swap on my carbs on my 1000G in 20mins so I would think a simple swap over would not take much more than 10mins. TKent has a bunch of bikes & buys & sells them for fun so I would expect him to be much better at it than me. The G & L models are much simpler than the E models. Regardless, even if it takes you 2hrs it has to be worth it to be sure it's not the carbs.

      It can only be fuel, air or spark. If you have those combined at the right time & an acceptable amount of compression (170 is in spec for these bikes, 185 is the max specified) then it will fire.

      Dan
      1980 GS1000G - Sold
      1978 GS1000E - Finished!
      1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
      1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
      2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
      1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
      2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

      www.parasiticsanalytics.com

      TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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