Valve cover is off, anything else to do?

[BeerMonger]

While I'm waiting on valve shims from Z1, is there something else you recommend I do that requires having the valve cover off?

(btw: 1 valve clearance was within spec, 5 were two shim sizes out, 2 were three shim sizes out, all too tight)

[Steve]

Check your cam timing.

Check your cam chain tensioner.

Verify there are wire mesh screens in the breather cover cavities.

Order stainless Allen-head bolts for the entire engine.

I'm sure there are more.

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[chef1366]

Rebuild the entire engine.
At least that seems to be what I do everytime I have the valve cover off.

[tkent02]

Just stick an 1100 engine in there.

[67fire]

Rebuild the entire engine.
At least that seems to be what I do everytime I have the valve cover off.

I'm with Chef! That is also what I tend to do.
Just cannot leave well enough alone!

Eric

[mighty13d]

I'm with Chef! That is also what I tend to do.
Just cannot leave well enough alone!

Eric

I'm betting that you have it as an option. He seems to be having it become mandatory for him! I much prefer working on stuff because I want to. Not because I have to.

[67fire]

Yes, optional for me.
I know Chef and the problems that he has had.
We rode together up to the Shasta Rally and around Shasta.
It was terrible news to hear of it happening again after he got it back together for the Rally.

Eric

[BeerMonger]

Check your cam timing.

Check your cam chain tensioner.

Verify there are wire mesh screens in the breather cover cavities.

Order stainless Allen-head bolts for the entire engine.

I'm sure there are more.

.

I've done the cam chain tensioner, I do have wire mesh screens, got the allen head bolts from Z1.

How do I check the cam timing? I have downloaded the GS850G manual from BikeCliff's site, is the info in there? (at work, can't confirm now)

[Steve]

Yes, the info is in the manual, but here it is, anyway.

Remove the idler wheel in between the cams. (this makes it easier to count the pins)

Use the 19mm hex on the right end of the crank to rotate the crank (clockwise ONLY) to the 1-4 timing marks, make sure that the "1" mark on the exhaust cam sprocket is pointing forward, even with the level of the head.

Start with the "2" mark on the top of the exhaust sprocket, count the pins in the chain back to the "3" mark on the top of the intake sprocket. I forget right now what the correct number is, but be sure to count the pins over the marks, too. The pin directly over the "2" mark will be counted as "one", etc. up to the last one that should be directly over the "3" mark.

If the crank timing mark is correct and the "1" is even with the edge of the head, the exhaust cam is correct. If there are the correct number of pins in your count, the intake cam is correct. If both are correct, put the idler back on and close things up. When you put the idler back on, the cams will move, relative to each other, but that's OK, they are supposed to.

.

[BeerMonger]

When I pull the idler, and crank the engine using the 19mm, I presume the chain will span directly from the top of the exhaust sprocket to the intake sprocket. The slack will be taken up by the cam chain tensioner, no? So I'll have to turn the cam chain tensioner dial out as I'm re-installing the idler, right?

I'm just thinking it thru now at work, maybe I should get back to work and just wait till i'm in the garage.

[Steve]

When you first remove the idler, there will be slack in the chain. The tensioner might take up some of that, but you should rotate the crank carefully to set your timing marks anyway, so it won't really matter.

After verifying your pin count between the cams, you will have to remove the tensioner and reset it before installing the idler sprocket.

To re-install your cam chain tensioner, it will already be off the bike, so:
Loosen the locknut and setscrew.
Rotate the knob (I don't remember which direction) to retract the plunger, tighten the setscrew (but not the locknut) to hold it there.
Install the tensioner, loosen the setscrew while watching the knob, it should turn a bit.
Snug the setscrew, then back it off 1/2 turn and lock it into place with the locknut.
(There is a groove in the plunger that will move under the setscrew. The setscrew will prevent it from going farther than the length of the groove.)
Rotate the crank with the 19mm nut on the crank, watch the knob, it might turn a bit more.

.