WOOT! It RUNS! (Sort of...)

[fenderfreek]

Do you have any free play in the clutch? It should be all but completely slack for the first 1/4" - 1/8" of travel before it actually engages. Only the resistance of the return spring.

Second possibility is that it's just plain worn out. A likely cause of clutch failure if it's high mileage or hasn't been maintained.

Third possibility is that the springs are worn - you might need to replace half of them with some extra power clutch springs if the other two things I mentioned are okay, though a 550 would be a lot less prone to this one.

[Taliesin]

There is no free play in the clutch at all. The clutch doesn't disengage until I've completely let out the handle, which leads me to wonder if it's fully disengaged at all.

I'm trying to remember the mileage, but I want to say it's around 65K miles. Was pretty well maintained, though it sat for awhile before I got it. When you say worn out, are you talking about the clutch plates, the cable, or the whole shebang?

The springs are the easiest thing to replace, right? Seems to me I might want to start there and see where it gets me?

[rudy]

Start with a cable adjustment. It's free. There will be an adjuster at both ends of the cable. Thread either one in more to give yourself more freeplay. If the one at the handlebar is already all the way in, take a look at the other end at the engine. Some GS cables have an adjuster in the middle of the cable as well. Your clutch lever should be slightly loose when you're done.

If that doesn't change anything, then start with changing out clutch springs. It's easy to do. When you get the new springs, get a clutch cover gasket as well. You'll likely destroy the old one.

[Taliesin]

Thanx, I'll try that and see where I stand. Easy and free is the best first solution.

And thanx for the gasket tip. I'll be surprised if I don't destroy more than the gasket, but hey, I managed to get the carbs back together ok!

So one question, even though the cable adjusters are pointing different ways, threading them in accomplishes the same thing? I know for a fact that the one on the handlebars is not all the way in, so I'll start there.

Thank you again!

[850 Combat]

Adjusting either end of the cable in a way that makes the effective length of the cable housing longer removes free play. Going in the other direction adds it. Go too far with the free play, and the clutch will not release all the way and will drag.

Letting the clutch slip will ruin it. When you detect slippage, back off the throttle and let the clutch hook up. Running too much oil can wet the plates too much and cause both slipping and dragging when cold.

[Taliesin]

It worked. I came back to the house, threaded in the adjuster at the transmission case some, and it grabs just like it should. WOOT! I have a new bike!!!
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Thank you guys immensely. I'm going to have to pick up a new adjuster for right at the handle, because the PO laid it down or something. It's thrashed and needs replacing. Always something, right?

I can't thank you guys enough!!!!!!