Weird charging problems

[psyguy]

Basically what I am saying in short is that your load is in series with your ignition switch and main fuse, and is dynamic, meaning it changes as per current requirements, and when drawing your maximum load with all components drawing power you will have the maximum current flowing through the ignition switch, giving you the maximum voltage drop over it. The voltage drop across the light switch is is not going to "add" anything noticeable to your ignition switch drop,

thanks for the tutorial, matchless . it does make sense to me now, as i do know the difference between electrical components being in series vs in parallel

in essence, with the instalation of the new fuse block and corresponding connectors the voltage drop that i have at the orange wire is there mainly due to the ignition switch, right?

if so, i wouldn't mind replacing the ignition switch with a new unit down the line. i just don't like replacing parts before understanding why i would be doing it.

but i'll take those voltage drop readings, that you mentioned, first.

cheers

[Matchless]

but i'll take those voltage drop readings, that you mentioned, first.

cheers

Yes first prove that it is actually the ignition switch and maybe you could even clean the contacts although I have never done that and not sure if you can open it.

Apologies, did not mean to be too pedantic in my 'tutorial'. Actually your question was a very good one and I had to give it some thought as to how to reply without going into calculations etc.

If you can reproduce that voltage drop then do the same measurement across the orange and red wires on the ignition switch itself. You do still have the plug connectors in the circuit as well, carrying the orange and red wires which could also be contributing to it.

Or else you can just temporary 'hotwire' the bike and so bypass the ignition switch and test if the drop is still present.

Keep well.

[Matchless]

In most cases the electronic switch is a seperate part that is affixed in various ways to the bottom of the lock part and can be cleaned and regreased seperately if you can get it apart without damaging it.
The lock part or barrel for the key is another seperate part and by design isolated from the switch part to keep out metal shavings as these parts wear and also to keep out any graphite powder if used to ease the lock working, as well as water entering the barrel.

Strictly speaking any oil in the barrel should not go into the switch part as water will then also find its way in.

The only way to get an old and tired switch (electrical) part working properly again is to open it and inspect for damage or wear, clean and grease it or replace if required.
The metal contacts may also have seperate springs or act as springs and can become corroded over time. Metal fatigue can take its toll as well as burning of the contacts and wear. Sometimes the plastic base holding the contact melts slightly due to heat and loosens the contacts so they do not make proper contact.

In many cases the electrical switch can be swopped back on your old barrel so that your ignition, tank and seat key stays the same.

Warning to any one reading this: Do not try taking an electrical switch apart unless you have a tidy workplace and have made yourself aware of the tiny springs and balls that may jump out never to be seen again! Also taking apart is nothing compared to reassembling some of those!

Sorry, force of habit, maybe too pedantic again!

Edit: JC, sorry my mistake I actually meant I never opened a GS ignition switch.