hot stator wires too

[DJones]

I have a new main wire harness, an electrex regulator,and a stator( no electrex) with three yellow wires. The voltage at the battery terminals is only 12.11v with the engine at 5000 rpm. It never reaches 13v and the stator wires are hot to the touch. Each stator phase measures 73 ohms and outputs 60 volts from each phase. According to the stator papers this is good. Why can`t I get more than 12.11 volts? I have good connections(new wire harness), I have new bullet connectors on the stator wires. I scraped the frame down to clean metal and attached the wire harness ground and the reg ground. Help! :roll:

[Anonymous]

73 ohms is bad. In the first part of the stator test, you shouldn't get any higher than 2 ohms, in the second part, there should be infinate resistance.

[DJones]

Thanks, how in the heck did I overlook that? WEll, it looks like I have to get the $151 dollar stator. money money money! well, I might as well paint the frame while I am at it since I have a new harness any way. Could I ride with the stator disconnected? I know that the bike won`t charge but with 12.11v it aint charging any way. I am trying to prevent damaging my electrex reg.

[Anonymous]

I'm not sure if it'd be wise to ride without a charging system. If the ignition was a magneto, then it wouldn't be too much of a problem, but being that it relies on battery voltage to work, running out of juice miles from home would not be a "good thing??". Plus it's a strain on the battery itself. It's not meant to be cycled very much.
Was the stator you have now a replacement? Any warranty on it?

[DJones]

no, no warranty on the stator. It was on the bike when I got it three years ago. Will a statre from anothe jap bike work ? What models?

[Anonymous]

Based on what I saw at Electrex, some Suzuki's and Kawasaki's share the same stator. That's not to say there wouldn't be some subtle difference though. Your best bet is to get the Electrex, it lists the G2 as fitting your bike.

[DJones]

well, I guess I have to get the electrex stator. Thanks for the input.

[Anonymous]

Be sure to check the rectifier regulator too. I was told it is often the problem of the stator going bad.

[DJones]

I removed the stator and tested it. 1.2 ohms in each phase and 72 volts output. removed r/r and performed diode test on it as stated in stator papers. It passed. reinstalled everything and still only get 12.11v at the battery at 5000rpm. How can this be? Should I connect the r/r output wire to the main fuse input or should I connect it to the + side of the battery?

[Anonymous]

Lemme see if I get this right.
The first stator test makes sure that there are no open windings between pairs. .5 to 2 ohms is a pass
The second test makes sure that none of the windings are shorting to ground. Infinite reisistance is a pass, ANY resistance is a fail.
If I got that right, in your initial tests, where were you getting a reading of 73 ohms? Between pairs or to ground?
Once you put it back together, did you do the tests again? I'm confused 'cuz you say you removed the stator and got 1.2 ohms (between pairs I hope), and 72 volts. How'd you manage that with it off the bike?

[DJones]

It was 72.5 volts when on the bike not ohms. Infinite resistance when measured to ground. The stator wires are hot to touch and I am only getting 12.11 volts at the battery at 5k rpm. since I got the electrex reg in 2001, I thought that the stator was bad. I removed the stator and the reg and performed the ohm and diode test and they check out fine. I don`t want to spend $151 dollars for a new stator and still have the same problem.

[DJones]

I found the problem. A piece of metal was lodged between the main fuse and the #2 fuse. I removed the metal and wow, 13.5v at the battery at 5krpm. I am going riding`til the wheels fall off! Thanks for all of the help. It is so nice to have a family.