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    #16
    Drilling out bolts is not that hard as long as you have access to the area. Center punch the screw like Chef suggests and start with a small starter hole. Once you get that first hole drilled, go up a couple of drill bit sizes and open up the hole. If you use left hand bits the drilling action may even unscrew the broken piece out of the engine. Keep moving up in bit size until you are just under the full bolt size and then get a tap in there to clean out all the reminents. Key thing during this process is to go slow and make sure the hole in the bolt is in the center. Not hard, assuming there is access.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      Drilling out bolts is not that hard as long as you have access to the area. Center punch the screw like Chef suggests and start with a small starter hole. Once you get that first hole drilled, go up a couple of drill bit sizes and open up the hole. If you use left hand bits the drilling action may even unscrew the broken piece out of the engine. Keep moving up in bit size until you are just under the full bolt size and then get a tap in there to clean out all the reminents. Key thing during this process is to go slow and make sure the hole in the bolt is in the center. Not hard, assuming there is access.
      Also keep the drill bit clean and oiled through out the drilling process. If you start hearing squeeking STOP clean and oil.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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