switch to synthetic oil?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I have a question about the rating of oils, SG,SH,etc. I have a '79 GS1000 and 3 years ago I read about motor oils at this site. It recommends using oil rated no higher than "SG' on some older bikes. Any oil rated higher will actually make the bearings slip instead of roll on my roller bearing crank. A higher rated oil is just too slippery. I have stayed with this advice. Is this still true? Thanks.

[Anonymous]

I have a question about the rating of oils, SG,SH,etc. I have a '79 GS1000 and 3 years ago I read about motor oils at this site. It recommends using oil rated no higher than "SG' on some older bikes. Any oil rated higher will actually make the bearings slip instead of roll on my roller bearing crank. A higher rated oil is just too slippery. I have stayed with this advice. Is this still true? Thanks.

No, it's not true. Of course I have to say that intuitively, because there won't have been any studies on such a proposition. However, if there is so little friction present that your bearings won't roll, you're not going to see any wear occur in any case!
My 1100 uses a roller bearing crank, and I'd bet my life that my SL oil will not harm the bearings in any fashion. There haven't been any giant leaps in lubricity: Rather, improvements are incremental, and it's likely new grades sometimes reflect differing additive packages that address concerns other than lubricity.

[saaz]

I don't think the oil too slippery problem exists. The main thing to avoid is energy conserving oils with friction modifiers - usually 10W-30 oils (starburst symbol). Anything rated above 40 weight should be ok, but I think someone said recently some of those oils may be friction modified, so look at the packet.

Older bikes with seals a bit hard may leak with synthetic oil, but this is more to do with synthetics cleaning out the internals better, removing all that gunge that stops leaks.

If you do a search on oil there has been much discussion in recent times. Use a good oil and change it whne you should. I don't know whether the main advantage of synthetics, extended oil changes, can be realised on air cooled motors (or most bikes really) as they tend to stress the oil a bit more, ie run hotter. Synthetics do tend to keep a bit longer in use, but not all are necessarily better tha mineral oils.

No definite answers here..all depends

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Thanks for the replies. I don't mind "limiting" my choice of oil by staying with the SG rating. But what bothers me is only a few brands are available with this rating at the bike shops and none at the auto parts stores. So if they stop making it, then I would have to change. This also makes me wonder, if the higher rated oil is so much more advanced in lubrication qualities, then why do they still bother to make the SG rated oil? Could it be that it really IS better for roller bearing cranks or "older" engine designs? And by the way, before I ever read the oil section at this site,I used Castrol GTX 20/50 for many years and I think it was rated SJ in '99. I had Vance&Hines completely re-build my motor. It did have 106,000 miles on it, but I don't ride that hard, just average. When I got an estimate to re-build it(before actual inspection) they said the cranks are very durable and that I should'nt need to repair it. Well, the main bearings were shot,( I saw for myself) and I ended up having it sent out to weld and true it. I don't know if I can blame the Castrol for this, but after reading about oil here it did make me wonder. On the other hand, I did get 106,000 miles and it was still running "OK", just making some noises and a bit of smoke on cold mornings.What do you think?

[redliner1973]

I think if you got 106k out of an air-cooled motor you got your moneys worth. However, at least on auto's, main bearing failure is usually attributed to low-rpm heavy loads, such as lugging the engine, or using too high of a gear when accelerating. I still think you did good on it. :twisted:

[Anonymous]

I think if you got 106k out of an air-cooled motor you got your moneys worth. However, at least on auto's, main bearing failure is usually attributed to low-rpm heavy loads, such as lugging the engine, or using too high of a gear when accelerating. I still think you did good on it. :twisted:

I'd agree. Although some bikes will go well beyond 106k, that is a very respectable figure. Remember, it was still running when you chose to rebuild it. Lots of well-maintained 20-year-old water-cooled autos with 106,000 miles make noises and smoke! Are you certain that the smoke on cold mornings was burning oil? If it was temperature dependent, it was more likely condensation or related to carburation on a cold bike!

I assume you were the original owner of the bike, otherwise you can't draw ANY conclusions from your experience because you don't know what lack of care or abuse it may have suffered earlier.

Anyway, folks either have to accept the dogma of the motorcycle oil manufacturers (unsupported by any offer of proof) or accept the experience of those of us who didn't believe it. I know that my best advice is given free! Are you gonna' trust the corporations? Remember, cigarettes don't cause cancer!!!!!!! 8O

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Al. The smoke at cold starts was oil burning but it went away in a minute,no big deal.I had no idea the crank was going bad,the bike made several noises but nothing to stop her. I have not checked lately but 3 years ago, this site had an article about GS's with roller bearing cranks. It was under the heading:" Everything you ever wanted to know about oil" or something like that. It got fairly technical and said these engines should not use any oil rated above 'SG'. So I just jumped into this topic wondering if that article is still "up to date"? This topic was actually about synthetics vs regular oil,so I apologize if it's trailing off.
By the way, I am the original owner. I bought her for my 23rd B-day. I did a ground up restoration 4 years ago. I invested $10,000 in her. $5300 of which went into the motor by Vance&Hines. If you want a perfect restoration it's expensive. There were "sentimental" reasons,plus I just did'nt care too much for the new bikes(although I do like the Kawasaki ZRX1200 that has since come out.) I may buy one and "semi-retire" my GS. But I do have a bike that is much better than new with all the upgrades.She's at 118,000 now, 12,000 since the re-build. Check out my website if you like.

[Anonymous]

Check out my website if you like.

It sounds like a fabulous restoration. Would you provide the link again, here? Thanks.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Here you go:

http://home.comcast.net/~keith.krause/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html

Hope that helps...I thought to visit someones website, you just click on the www icon below?

[Anonymous]

Here you go:

http://home.comcast.net/~keith.krause/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html

Hope that helps...I thought to visit someones website, you just click on the www icon below?

I'll know for next time!

[Anonymous]

By the way, I am the original owner. I bought her for my 23rd B-day. I did a ground up restoration 4 years ago. I invested $10,000 in her. $5300 of which went into the motor by Vance&Hines

It looks like money very well spent. How quickly would a HD have sucked that money away?

How much an improvement were the rear shocks? Do you remember what the spring rates were? How well do those work with your loading?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

By the way, I am the original owner. I bought her for my 23rd B-day. I did a ground up restoration 4 years ago. I invested $10,000 in her. $5300 of which went into the motor by Vance&Hines

It looks like money very well spent. How quickly would a HD have sucked that money away?

How much an improvement were the rear shocks? Do you remember what the spring rates were? How well do those work with your loading?

I like the shocks. I'm not a real canyon carver or anything, but they seem to be fine for general riding. I weigh about 195. They are set on their 'softest' setting. Sometimes on large bumps, they rebound a bit harsh. Riding double is OK too.They were about $210 w/springs. I don't remember the spring rates. I do remember they asked me which springs I wanted,'heavy duty' or 'standard'. I believe I picked the standard. It may say on my reciept. Thanks for the compliment. KK.

[AOD]

Keith, that's the first time i've seen your bike, very nice man. I didn't know you were the original owner, that's awesome.

anyway, back on topic guys, i went to Wal-Mart this morning and picked up a 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 15W50 synthetic and an oil drain pan. i swapped out the old oil, thank goodness for the Suzuki tool-kit, the sparkplug changer is also the drain plug tool. filled 'er up with fresh oil, and fired it up.

no leaks, took it for a cruise around the parking lot, shifted gears a few times, everything felt good.

no leaks after a few minutes of running, topped off the oil and parked it. its hot as nuts and humid here today and really windy, so i may not ride today. i'll have more of a verditct by next week.

just wanted to let you guys know i did the swap. 8)

~Adam

[Anonymous]

just wanted to let you guys know i did the swap.

What? Are you crazy! Who told you that was a good idea?

[AOD]

okay i couldn't resist...i took the bike out this evening.

rode great, didn't feel any amount of heat while driving or sitting at lights. the strong 20+ MPH wind probably helped that, but the bike ran good.

clutch felt a bit smoother, gear shifting was great. overall i'm pleased. i'm sure in the long run i'll be happy i switched.

~Adam