Choke won't stay fully up...

[Taliesin]

The twist thing didn't work for me for whatever reason. However, I was able to cinch the friction collar down a little more, which provided some grip on that rod.

I think I'm going to have to check out the flexible tubing option pretty soon, though, since it's bottomed out now. And a little more grip would be a good thing. However, I didn't need to do the Twister Start method yesterday afternoon!

[tkent02]

Temporary fix, put a quarter, nickle, penny or something else the right size in between the arm on the end of the sliding choke rod and the side of the #1 carburetor to hold it open until the engine gets warm enough to ride.

I had a 750 with a bad cable when I bought it, I'd use a quarter to start it up for about half a minute until it revved up too high, then put in a nickle and go riding. When it was completely warmed up, pull the cable, the nickle falls out, push it back in, away we go.

These days I might stop to pull the nickle and put it back in my pocket.

[jbrown]

Good information...

I've been with out a choke nob/cable/everything except the choke itself since i bought my bike...

I have to manually feel it out until it gets warm enough... my good old fingers do the trick... how bad is this for my bike i wonder??

[Nessism]

The twist thing didn't work for me for whatever reason. However, I was able to cinch the friction collar down a little more, which provided some grip on that rod.

I think I'm going to have to check out the flexible tubing option pretty soon, though, since it's bottomed out now. And a little more grip would be a good thing. However, I didn't need to do the Twister Start method yesterday afternoon!

You are not supposed to twist the cable, or the pull knob, you twist that cable friction device just under the knob (rubber cap looking piece). Try turning it in tighter until the cable will stay put when you pull the knob out. If it won't hold the cable properly, just get a new cable and be done with it.

[Taliesin]

Right, I understand the concept of that friction device. Some have reported success with turning the knob/rod and thus locking it in the up position until they want it down and then twisting it back. Others have reported that it didn't work for them. I'm in the second group.

I twisted that collar down and got a little more grab on the rod, which will serve for now.

[Nooner]

I had a similar problem, I hand tightened the knurled knob at the bottom of the choke stem and it seems to have worked fine. Never thought of the twist idea.

[Agemax]

must be only certain models the twist action works, but saying that a lot of cheaper aftermarket cables do not have this function

[850 Combat]

I just unscrewed the top nut all the way, took small piece of flexible tubing and placed it in there (I forget if between nut and cone or between cone and cable/rod)

Pretty much free, took 2 minutes, and now my choke stays in place again.

Hmm...

I tightened the knob on mine until I broke it, and then I bought a new $22.00 OEM cable. I like your idea better...

[xDownSetx]

I put in the Canada spec pilot jet and air screw(main too.) The GS starts perfectly without choke now.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The bike should start up without choke if the motor is still a little warm. Sounds like something was missed in servicing the pilot circuit or you have an intake leak.

[coolksprt]

Mine used to "slip" down all the time and I would be doing all the fancy moves to get it to start. After about 3months of riding, it kinda just fixed itself...sooo maybe just ride it out??

Kev