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exhaust bolts coming loose
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Originally posted by Larry D View Post
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Mom's first ride
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dr_fosg8
Well I got some new bolts from the local Fastenal store. Lucky to have one of those close by, those 45mm lengths seem to be hard to come by.
Got them installed with a bit of anti-sieze and some new hardened lock washers. They actually seems to torque down better, could have just been my imagination being optimistic though. I will have to see how they do after a couple of rides.
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Zooks
Whatever you do, don't ever be tempted to over-tighten them to hold them in place. A stripped thread or snapped bolt (in the motor) will be a complete PITA.
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67fire
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dr_fosg8
Zooks, that worries me all the time with torquing in cast aluminum. I torqued them to around 150 inch pounds. Which now that I typed it out and thought about it, is 2.5 foot pounds too tight. Should have been 120 inch pounds.
You would think with as much as I have tightened these I would have remembered that
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dr_fosg8
I did look for studs but could not find anything suitable. Tkent, do you have and measurements for a stud for this application? And a source to get them?
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Originally posted by dr_fosg8 View PostI did look for studs but could not find anything suitable. Tkent, do you have and measurements for a stud for this application? And a source to get them?
I put them in with Blue Locktite, finger tight until it bottoms then back out 1/4 turn. This prevents bottoming the stud in the hole which is bad, it helps put pressure on the threads, helps to strip them out. Ask an aircraft mechanic about this part. Nothing should ever be bottomed out.
Are you using the original pipes with the cast rings or an aftermarket pipe? If the original rings the lockwasher should lock, use a new one as they get hardened with time and heat cycles too.
With most aftermarket pipes the flanges are curved, so a lockwasher won't work well. Then use anti-seize and a locknut, not a Nylock but one where the nut itself is deformed to make it stay on.
I like the copper locknuts used on BMW cars, they withstand the heat a long time and don't rust up. They should also have suitable studs, if you don't find them elsewhere.
Last edited by tkent02; 10-10-2009, 10:10 PM.
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dr_fosg8
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Originally posted by dr_fosg8 View PostSo basically what I am looking for is a small piece of all-thread to loc-tight into the head?
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dr_fosg8
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Zooks
As Tom said, you need proper metric exhaust studs. You may find that some small Japanese or Euro cars have the same size if you can't find bike ones. Go to an auto parts store.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35604
- Torrance, CA
Before tightening those exhaust bolts you might want to make sure the muffler hanger bolts are loose; you want to exhaust system to be free and able to float with the position of the head pipes. After the head pipes are snugged down, tighten the muffler hangers back down last.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Zooks
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