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Why does my clutch slip only at 4.5K?

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    Why does my clutch slip only at 4.5K?

    Hello All!
    My GS1100E had the typical noisy clutch when I got her. I pulled the basket to find a loose nut, and a looser set of springs in the hub, along with grooves. I eb*y ed another whole clutch assembly, used, and used the two to make one.

    I mic'ed the fibers and steels and they all seemed fine. I took the hub I bought and ground the rivet heads off the back flush and pressed them out. I took my trashed original and ground around the edge of the heads and pushed them out. I also took the top hat shaped spring seats from the trashed hub. I then took my replacement hub and put the extra spring seats in opposite the originals to tighten up the springs (the trashed hub was so loose you could shake it like a maraca). I then pressed the longer rivets that I ground the edge off into the hub and then, with the whole assembly pressed together, TIG welded the rivets to the back plate. Everything tight now.

    I assembled everything back in the bike using the best parts of the two sets. I did not get to ride it much before I did this, but it was much, much quieter now.

    So, now I am riding it much more aggressively, since the original set up had so much noise and vibration I thought for sure I was going to be pitching parts through the cases. Now I have a persistent slip under hard acceleration, possibly the whole time, but most noticeably as I watch the tach (my speedo isn't working at the moment) and the RPM flashes from 4.5K to 5.5K for a second and then back down to continue climbing up until I shift. It is almost like clockwork. I did not get to ride it this hard before, maybe it did it then as well.

    My first thought is to change the clutch springs to Barnetts, perhaps the whole clutch pack. And that is in the cards, I am just curious as to why the slip in the mid RPM range and not the lower or upper RPM?

    Right now a hard launch (as hard as this bike seems capable of now) produces no theatrics, no wheelspin, no lift. Pulls hard from 2k up. I don't know if this is clutch slip, a tired, or poorly tuned motor, or because I am a fat bastard, not a 180# 20-year-old anymore, like when I did this sort of tomfoolery back in the eighties. I just know GS's are supposed to be the building blocks of some of the best dragbikes in history but you wouldn't know it from mine.

    What do you all think is my issue(s)?

    Cheers, Erick

    #2
    I'd put my money on needing new clutch springs. Not sure why it only slips at 4k-5k...maybe that's the top of the torque curve? Anyway, it sounds like you've done everything else to the clutch. Clutch springs are cheap and easy to replace.
    85 GS1150E May '06 BOM
    79 GS1000S Wes Cooley Beast





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      #3
      stock the torque peak is 6500rpm
      are you sure you have the plates in the right order and count? free play right?

      barnett performance springs will require you to have popeye fore arms and will drag and be a real pain. for non drag race street needs stock springs work perfectly fine. you did not list what year model you have and what year model the donor one came from, the 83 1100e uses differant thinner plates and more of them they have to be used as a complete set.

      did you mike the plates to see they were in specs?

      what oil are you running?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by focus frenzy View Post
        stock the torque peak is 6500rpm
        are you sure you have the plates in the right order and count? free play right?

        barnett performance springs will require you to have popeye fore arms and will drag and be a real pain. for non drag race street needs stock springs work perfectly fine. you did not list what year model you have and what year model the donor one came from, the 83 1100e uses differant thinner plates and more of them they have to be used as a complete set.

        did you mike the plates to see they were in specs?

        what oil are you running?
        Barnett plates will chew the basket and their springs will eat clutch cables and levers to.
        And they just don't work as nice and smooth as the Suzuki stuff.
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

        Comment


          #5
          If the hub has deep notches the plates will bind and you'll get a slip at weird rpms.
          Or
          The springs are worn out. I have some good stock springs or go for the EBC springs.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #6
            I used Barnett springs with Suzuki plates for years in 1000S; my friend had the same set-up on his 1100EX. We never had any issues.

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for the replies! I am getting a set of stock and a set of Barnetts, after what else I have already purchased, this is cheap! I have a long list of mods I am preparing for and one of them is a hydraulic clutch like this;



              I have just won a complete set on e*ay, from the entire left clip on with master to the slave, off a 2008 GSXR1000 for 49 bucks! Once I have the mount laid out I will offer it up on this forum as CAD file, as well as the dims and part #'s of the pushrod and such. Necessary? Nah, but as an engineer and perpetual tinkerer I am doing much this just because. One of the biggest reasons I wanted an older bike.

              Thanks again for the insights!

              Cheers, Erick

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