How to get carbs back on a 77 gs550?

[mehall2]

Greetings from the Atlanta area. I'm to the point on my 77 GS550 project where I need to get my newly cleaned carbs back on the bike. I worked on a KZ550 last year and the procedure for that back was to fold back the air boots and you'll have just enough room to put the carbs back into the intake boots. Once in, just unfold the air boots and you're golden.

On the GS550, the air boots are pretty short so I'm having a hard time figuring this procedure out. I know there might not be an easy way to do this, just hoping for a few clues. I figured there's someone out there who's done this before.

Cheers,
Mark

[Nessism]

Loosen the airbox screws and slide it back as far as possible - about 1 inch. After that it's just a matter of finding a technique that works for you to force the carbs back in place.

[mehall2]

Thanks Ed. I've loosened the airbox but maybe I have some more room to push it back that I'm not seeing. I'll try again later tonight...

[tkent02]

I haven't done it on a 550 in a long time but...
Did you lube up the rubber boots to the airbox and to the head?
I like to use silicone spray lube but other lubricants would work, Astroglide, whatever.

[LeeGS550E]

other lubricants would work, Astroglide, whatever.

I spray in some Simple Green that I have mixed up - then the engine heat just burns it off. Astroglide leaves a residue.

[mehall2]

I have to admit I don't have much Astroglide experience. I think I'll go with the simplegreen approach and give this a try today. I'm thinking that, plus a few motivational cuss words might just get the job done.

Thanks,
Mark

[duaneage]

KY makes a few products that not only work well but increase the pleasure for the carbs AND the boots.

[willie]

IF the '77 550 is anything like the '79 550 I know just what you're going thru. I found that removing the screws from the battery box, air box and the plate behind the electrics allows the air box to move rearward enough to give the clearance you need. Also, IF so, push the fron of the airbox downward and slides the carbs in so they're intakes are above the airbox boots. Then its a pretty simple matter of pushing the front of the carbs into the mnifold boots before sliding the airbox forward and the airbox boots onto the carbs. PM me if you didn't understand what you just read and I'll give you my phone # to explain it to you.
FWIW, it took me ALOT longer to get the carbs off and on the 1st time. Since then, I can have them off within 15 minutes of disconnecting the gas line.
Good luck.
Willie

[Turtleface]

Sort of in the right thread, don't want to start a new one. I'm reinstalling my carbs after rebuilding my cam chain tensioner, reinstalling my valve cover gasket (leaked after valve check, might have it sorted, have a new gasket coming in next week anyways.), and installing new seals in my tachometer cable housing. Gave most the engine a decent scrub down while I was at it, and polished the stator cover a bit (until I ran out of polishing buffs). I've just about got the carbs back on, they're fully seated in the boots on the engine side, and #1 and #4 are both full seated at the airbox. Now, #2 and #3 are near completely seated. There's about a 2-3 mm gap at the bottom side of the boot, diminishing to no gap at about the halfway point, maybe a little earlier. Any tricks to get that last little bit seated? I'm worried if I tighten it up like it is, they might pop off later. The bike's an 1100 E, of the 1982 variety. I installed the engine side boots with the R & L indication facing up, centered, and on the correct side. Thanks!

[Turtleface]

Sort of in the right thread, don't wan..kkk..blah, blah, blah, yakity smackity......Thanks!

I should mention that I have indeed unbolted the entire airbox assembly, the big plastic bit right behind the carbs, and the air filter housing. Tried spraying them down with Simple Green to help slide them on.