Broken valve spring?

[Nessism]

If I remove the valves & springs can I take a look inside to check the seals? I really don't want to change them if they are OK (I know they're inexpensive but as someone once said "If it ain't broke, don't fix it").

The seals can not be checked by visual inspection. They are cheap so I strongly advise you to just change them and consider lapping the valves while they are out of the head (number the valves to they get back into their original hole).

Good luck

[Steve]

On BassCliff's site, you can find a video that my son and I made, showing how to make a rather inexpensive valve spring compressor.
You will need that to check/replace your seals.

.

[razooki]

On BassCliff's site, you can find a video that my son and I made, showing how to make a rather inexpensive valve spring compressor.
You will need that to check/replace your seals.

.

Thanks Steve, I've already viewed the video a couple of times. Acquired the 6" clamp on sale even. I'm just waiting on the valve seals from Z1 and then I hope I'll be all set.

[razooki]

OK, just got the new valve seals from Z1. I am looking for some advice/tips/home made tools that I would need to replace them. I understand that I have to use the spring compressor to remove the valves and then the springs will come out but then do I need to remove anything else to get to the seals? What have people used to seat them back in?

Thanks,

Raz

[Steve]

OK, you said you have viewed the video, just play it backwards.

Compress the spring, remove the two half-moon keepers, release the spring (hopefully in a controlled manner).
Remove the top spring keeper and both springs.
Reach down and pull on the valve seals. Ideally, you will want some pliers with bent tips, like spark plug pullers or strain relief pliers. The idea is to get under the seal and pull UP. Might help to grab and twist just a bit to make sure it's not stuck, then pull.

While you have things apart, check the valve guide clearance before putting things back together. To put the new seals in, just push them down with your thumb, you will feel them snap into place. Put a few drops of oil on the inside, put the valve in place, then the springs and other hardware. Repeat as necessary.

.

[razooki]

Steve, thank you again. As always, you provide straight forward and concise answers. So here's one more question. The manual recommends using moly paste for the cams and the valve shafts. Is that really necessary?

[Big T]

Not moly paste, as such

Some assembly lube would be nice - I think you can get it in those little squeeze packs at the front counter of Autozone or your auto parts store. If not, the small but expensive squeeze bottle will last a lifetime.

Oiling will also work, just not as well

[Spyderman]

the motor has been run so you don't need to use paste
a nice coating of clean motor oil will do just fine

[doctorgonzo]

Here you go... it was an Athena. Parts n More do them. Price is a little higher than I remember, maybe the $45 was on Ebay or different supplier.

https://www.partsnmore.com/motorcycle-gasket_sets.php?make=suzuki&category=gasket_set

Dan

That's the kit I used. I have heard it trashed a bit by some members, but so far (granted only 30 miles) so good.

[doctorgonzo]

Not moly paste, as such

Some assembly lube would be nice - I think you can get it in those little squeeze packs at the front counter of Autozone or your auto parts store. If not, the small but expensive squeeze bottle will last a lifetime.

Oiling will also work, just not as well

Yeah, Lucas makes some (assembly lube) that's available at your local autozone, pep boys, etc...

[rudy]

For assembly oil I just use left over (still new) 80W90 gear oil mixed with some 20W50 Golden Spectro 4 engine oil. Sticky as anything, and if it's a little cooler out, almost as thick as grease. You can almost spoon this stuff on. Don't be shy with it either, you can never put too much lube on. It'll just burn off, or flow through your engine. Everything that moves in the engine should get some on it.

[razooki]

Thanks again for all the advice everybody. Well, I took out one of the exhaust valves using Steve's spring compressor tool so here are some pics of the valve and the exhaust port. It looks like it someone took a grinder to it and polished it? Regarding the valve seals - I tried pressing one in with my finger but the small spring came out. Can I just seat it gently and then have it seat all the way down when I re-assemble everything? I would think that the spring keeper would seat it all the way once the springs are in place and compressed. I'm still going to lap the valves but I was excited to try the compressing tool tonight.

[Nessism]

I use a socket to install the valve guide seals. Use an extension and tap gently until the seal seats down over the guide - lip on the seal seats in the groove on the guide.

[razooki]

Ed thanks for the suggestion of using a socket to install the seals. A 10mm deep socket worked great. Now a have the head installed with new seals and lapped valves but I could not leave it alone so I removed the bottom end to take a look at the pistons and rings (the PO had replaced #4 piston so it only stood to reason that he would have inspected/replaced the other piston rings but one never knows). Anyway I'm a bit confused about measuring the piston ring end gap once the rings are re-installed.

1. Obviously I measure with a thickness gauge where the ends meet right?
2. Why measure at the gap and not anywhere else along the ring? Just curious.

Raz

[razooki]

Well I'm glad I took out the bottom end to look at the pistons. It looks like the PO has installed 1mm over pistons. Now if I want to inspect the pistons and the rings will I be looking for the same specs as for the standard ones? That is should the ring end gaps, ring thickness, groove witdth, etc. be the same?