1981 GS750E - Quick stainless bolt question

[woodsietx]

I have some stainless bolts to replace the 8 screws that hold the chrome cam end covers on the motor. The stock ones are tapered to fit into the offset in the cover. I'm concerned that they won't tighten properly and I'll lose the covers.

Has anyone had any trouble after replacing these stock screws?

Woodsie

[salty_monk]

You're trying to replace them with flat headed bolts? You should buy one of the bolt kits, $30 & it includes those as well as all the others!

Dan

[almarconi]

Just get some countersunk hex stainless screws in the correct size.

[Steve]

And even with that, I always us some blue Loctite.

Haven't lost one since I started using the Loctite.

.

[woodsietx]

You're trying to replace them with flat headed bolts? You should buy one of the bolt kits, $30 & it includes those as well as all the others!

Dan

I have a bolt kit. There are no countersink bolts.

Just get some countersunk hex stainless screws in the correct size.

I went to Fastenal where they literally have hundreds of different stainless fasteners in the catalog. He couldn't find a countersink version of the bolt I had off the bike. So I ordered a few in the correct size to match the threads but those don't have the same surface area where the pressure is applied. My goal is to not have to buy yet more screws, hence my question.

And even with that, I always us some blue Loctite.

Haven't lost one since I started using the Loctite.

.

One of three replies actually address the question. Not a bad ratio I guess.

Are there ever problems with removing the screws after Loctite has been used?

The chemical products that have been suggested to put on fasteners are new to me. I used copper anti-seize on the engine bolts and sealer on the petcock bolts. I had no reason to except that is what I read to do on the site.

If I can remove them easily after using Loctite, that'll be what I do. Otherwise does anyone else have thoughts on using stainless steel socket cap bolts, bought from a fastener store because they weren't available in my bolt kit, before I buy additional bolts and throw the 10 I did buy into the bolt kit bag? (Did I miss anything?) Oh yeah, I'm actually using a torque wrench to tighten them to about the same torque as the valve cover bolts.

Woodsie

[hikermikem]

I always us some blue Loctite.

Haven't lost one since I started using the Loctite..

+1 on the blue Loctite for the cam end cover screws... no problem when you need to remove them.

I also use blue Loctite on those little screws that hold the fuel tank emblems on too.

[sschering]

If it's the same screw as the 78 GS750 I can take one down to Tacoma screw and see what they have. Set of 8 might cost me $3-$4 (yes I'm talking about stainless) What thread size,pitch,length is it?

In all I got 48 SS cap screws for my GS1000 carbs there for $16.. (28 M4 bowl and cap screws w lock washers, 8 6M flush carb to frame screws , 8 6M carb holder to head w washers, 4 misc for some of the brackets)

If they don't have what you need in stock I'll be shocked. They specialize in hard to find metric hardware.

[woodman]

They make a pink locktite for small screws too, thats what I use

[sschering]

I just found something cool.
On many Yamaha's the 2nd half of the part number for the screws indicated the screw size..

I did some checking on Suzuki bolts I know the size of and it works for us too.

Suzuki PN for the cam cover screw is SKU: 02132-05128
That should indicate a 5M x 12mm

This should be the screw you need

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=M42540012A20000&ucst=t

ha.. did a search.. this is old old news.. Just new to me..

[jwhelan65]

Just get some countersunk hex stainless screws in the correct size.

plus one..

[Steve]

ha.. did a search.. this is old old news.. Just new to me..

Simply AMAZING how that works, isn't it.



.

[woodsietx]

Simply AMAZING how that works, isn't it.



.

This some sort of "I'm smarter than you" dig?

I knew about the sizing in the part number scheme. Have for quite some time. The reason I know and the reason I bought a bolt kit was from searching on the topic. Guess that is amazing.

All I wanted was some feedback on a very specific question. Has anyone had trouble using regular stainless steel bolts of the proper size that are not countersunk. The comments about Loctite are the only advice that addresses that question. I plan to try it rather than just toss the bolts I have out or spending additional money.

Has anyone else tried to buy anything from Fastenal? I trusted the guy behind the counter to use his computer search to get me the most appropriate product. He didn't and now I'm trying to use them. I found that the stainless metrics are not bulk items at Fastenal so it costs extra to buy less than 50. I've been in about 8 different hardware supply stores and none around here stock metric stainless socket bolts. Griffin suggested Ace but I have not found one yet.

Again, all I wanted to know was if anyone else tried these types of bolts. I'll have to assume no one has. Maybe I'll just break golf tees off in the holes.

Thanks. Sincerely.

Woodsie

[almarconi]

I have not tried fastenal but McMaster Carr has just about every bolt you could want. Shipping is usually pretty fast.

[DPage]

To keep screws from rattling out, the default seems to be Permatex Blue Threadlocker, but I've read on this site that even this stuff pulls some aluminum bits away whenever screws are taken out.

I have used Permatex Blue for serious threadlock situations, like the top nut on the cam chain tensioner, but that nut is steel-to-steel.

For screws that need to be used repeatedly in aluminum threads, consider using Permatex Thread SEALANT instead (in a white tube). It holds things in place without using lockjaw strength - think of it as Permatex Blue LITE.

For example, if you use a Realgasket for your valve cover gasket, use Permatex Thread Sealant to keep the cover screws on. It's kind of like Elmer's instead of epoxy.

When it comes to sidecovers, I just use a good anti-seize paste and snug the hex screws down medium tight. That's what I did 4 years ago on the clutch and electric side. Both sidecovers are still tight and don't leak oil.

[koolaid_kid]

This some sort of "I'm smarter than you" dig?

I knew about the sizing in the part number scheme. Have for quite some time. The reason I know and the reason I bought a bolt kit was from searching on the topic. Guess that is amazing.

All I wanted was some feedback on a very specific question. Has anyone had trouble using regular stainless steel bolts of the proper size that are not countersunk. The comments about Loctite are the only advice that addresses that question. I plan to try it rather than just toss the bolts I have out or spending additional money.

Has anyone else tried to buy anything from Fastenal? I trusted the guy behind the counter to use his computer search to get me the most appropriate product. He didn't and now I'm trying to use them. I found that the stainless metrics are not bulk items at Fastenal so it costs extra to buy less than 50. I've been in about 8 different hardware supply stores and none around here stock metric stainless socket bolts. Griffin suggested Ace but I have not found one yet.

Again, all I wanted to know was if anyone else tried these types of bolts. I'll have to assume no one has. Maybe I'll just break golf tees off in the holes.

Thanks. Sincerely.

Woodsie

Don't get too frustrated, they are mostly just trying to help. I have purchased that particular type of screw at my local Ace (for my master cylinder cap), not sure on the size. PM me and I'll see if they carry it. We can work out the details.
Blue Loctite can be used on screws that you want to be able to remove at some future time. It works. Don't use red, it is for screws that you do not want to remove later. It also comes in other colors, but they are difficult to find locally.
I have not used a flat screw in a hole that was designed for an angle, but I would think that the difference in surface area would preclude a good seating of the head of the screw. IOW, I would not do it myself, and would not recommend it for others except on a "let's get it home so I can fix it correctly" basis.