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RR hickups at stoplight after coming off hway

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    RR hickups at stoplight after coming off hway

    I'm running a Ricks RR and an Electrosport stator on the 550. Battery is cheap Walmart
    but reads healthy and is pretty new.

    I also have a voltage LCD readout so I can monitor at the battery terminals.

    All is well. I am super happy with the setup except...

    After running on the highway for some 20-30 minutes (voltage reading 13.5-13.8V)
    I take an exit and come to a stop.

    Usually the voltage drops to an expected 12.4-12.6V (depends on air temp).

    Once in a while (not always) voltage will drop to 11.8V until I rev the motor and then
    it will return to the 12.4V range.

    This bike has already blown a stator so the wiring has been gone over with new
    spade connectors. And like I said the RR and stator are relatively new.

    Is anyone else seeing this? Am I on the verge of getting another blown stator?

    #2
    Mine has always done that. So far I've had no problems. I have an analog sweep style voltmeter I put on, it's been telling me my voltage for the past three years. Seems to be fine.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by DimitriT View Post
      I'm running a Ricks RR and an Electrosport stator on the 550. Battery is cheap Walmart
      but reads healthy and is pretty new.

      I also have a voltage LCD readout so I can monitor at the battery terminals.

      All is well. I am super happy with the setup except...

      After running on the highway for some 20-30 minutes (voltage reading 13.5-13.8V)
      I take an exit and come to a stop.

      Usually the voltage drops to an expected 12.4-12.6V (depends on air temp).

      Once in a while (not always) voltage will drop to 11.8V until I rev the motor and then
      it will return to the 12.4V range.

      This bike has already blown a stator so the wiring has been gone over with new
      spade connectors. And like I said the RR and stator are relatively new.

      Is anyone else seeing this? Am I on the verge of getting another blown stator?
      Have you calibrated your bar mounted volt meter as all of your voltages sound low by about 0.5-0.6V?

      Comment


        #4
        Check and make sure the reg has a good ground to the battery. Check the voltage difference between the battery + terminal and the fuse block. It should be less than .5 volts any more indicates a bad connection

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by DimitriT View Post

          Usually the voltage drops to an expected 12.4-12.6V (depends on air temp).

          Really ? Does the air temp affect it that much ?

          Im with Pos. I think your meter is reading a point where there is some volatge drop. Check the battery voltage at the + & - terminals with a good DVM.
          82 1100 EZ (red)

          "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1 View Post
            Check and make sure the reg has a good ground to the battery. Check the voltage difference between the battery + terminal and the fuse block. It should be less than .5 volts any more indicates a bad connection
            +1

            0.5V max at 5000 RPM when full charging should be occuring (0.25V is even better).

            If you had 0.5v on both the (+) lead and the (-) lead and were charging at the nominal setpoint of 14.5V (at the regulator), your voltage at the battery would be 14.5-0.5-0.5=13.5V at the battery terminals

            in contrast if you can get down to 0.25v you would be at:
            14.5-0.25-0.25 = 14.0V at the battery terminals

            Please note that those voltage drops are measured with all R/R and load connections closed (i.e. not and open circuit test)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by posplayr View Post
              Have you calibrated your bar mounted volt meter as all of your voltages sound low by about 0.5-0.6V?
              Probably due to temperature. I have not calibrated it but I ride in 40-50 degree F weather. On days when its 70-80 F I normally get 13V+ when idling. Also I've set my idle a tad slower that most - about 1100 RPM indicated.
              Last edited by DimitriT; 10-30-2009, 05:57 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1 View Post
                Check and make sure the reg has a good ground to the battery. Check the voltage difference between the battery + terminal and the fuse block. It should be less than .5 volts any more indicates a bad connection
                I have done the ground wire to the battery terminal. That seemed to help a bit in stabilizing the voltage when I did it (raised the lower end and lowered the upper end). A GOOD THING. Great suggestion on the voltage difference check. Will do that.

                Comment


                  #9
                  i get the same readings as DimitriT. I need a better ground wire to the battery. The positive is connected to the fuse box (+) screw. Is this a good idea?
                  1979 GS850G
                  2004 SV650N track bike
                  2005 TT-R125 pit bike
                  LRRS #246 / Northeast Cycles / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Hindle Exhaust / Central Mass Powersport

                  http://s327.photobucket.com/albums/k443/tas850g/

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by tas850g View Post
                    i get the same readings as DimitriT. I need a better ground wire to the battery. The positive is connected to the fuse box (+) screw. Is this a good idea?
                    it is ok if the described measurements check. There is no way to know if the fusebox is corroded (or any other connection) without performing the measurements.

                    Comment

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