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    #16
    A couple notes:

    A DC volt meter (especially an analog meter) is designed to measure DC voltages by indicating the steady current flow through the meter. This steady state current flow through the meter is very small (sub mil-amps) but is required to deflect the needle. Anything else is undefined.

    If the needle was deflecting from EMI (Electromagnetic Interference) then that would be energy radiated by the motorcycle and coupled into the leads of the voltmeter. The leads would be acting like an antenna. Since the phenomenon requires one lead to be grounded to the frame, I doubt this is the case.

    While it is really only wild speculation, there are obviously current pulses (what the meter reads) flowing related to the change in potential between the bike and the ground as the motor cycle charges. So this represents charging doing any further quantification seems pointless. The measurement is not calibrated in any way as the meter is calibrated to measure constant voltages.

    One would be well advised to spend time measuring voltage drop and cleaning grounds rather than conjecturing on what causes the needle to bounce.

    The sparking that is common at the coils is a result of high impedance secondary components. This is usually bad wires. What happens is the igniter controls the primary current buy allowing current to flow and then stops the flow by opening the current path in the primary. When there is an attempt to stop the flow, there is a rise in the voltage across the primary which is further amplified in the secondary portion of the coil. This energy flow between the primary and the secondary is basically like a transformer. When there is current flowing through a wire, then there is a magnetic field. If there is a magnetic field around a piece of wire then current will flow. It is a sharing of the magnetic field between primary and secondary that causes the energy transfer.

    So now if you have a high impedance wire (bad wire), the energy that gets launched when your igniter fires the primary cannot fully get to the spark plug as a portion of the energy bounces off the high impedance block. That energy reflects back up the coil wire and ends up arching across the primary leads.


    At this point I'm not sure if it is coupling back into primary through the coil or just arching over but the effect is the same. Regardless this has nothing to do with charging and all to do with bad secondary ignition. Since we already know the phenomenon in 1.) above requires a connection to the bike frame we know that it is not EMI from the ignition.

    No that I suggest this is a good idea, but if anyone was so inclined I suspect if you disconnect the R/R and start your engine that you will probably not see any bounce or at least a different bounce.
    and has to do with shared magnetic field between the current flowing in the primary with the magnetic field of the current

    charging and all to do with bad secondary ignition. Since we already knwo the phenomonom in 1.) above requires a conenction to the bike frame we know that it is not EMI from the ignition.

    No that I suggest this is a good idea, but if anyone was so inclided I suspect if you disconnet the R/R and start your engine that you will probably not see any bounc or at least a different bounce.
    and has to do with shared magnetic feild between the current flowing in the primary with the magnetci feild of the current

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by posplayr View Post


      1.While it is really only wild speculation, there are obviously current pulses (what the meter reads) flowing related to the change in potential between the bike and the ground as the motor cycle charges. So this represents charging doing any further quantification seems pointless. The measurement is not calibrated in any way as the meter is calibrated to measure constant voltages.


      2. One would be well advised to spend time measuring voltage drop and cleaning grounds rather than conjecturing on what causes the needle to bounce.

      3. That energy reflects back up the coil wire and ends up arching across the primary leads.

      4. I suspect if you disconnect the R/R and start your engine that you will probably not see any bounce or at least a different bounce.
      POSPlayer - thank you for your thorough response. Unf, its a bit technical for an idiot like me My counter-points:

      1&2. I disagree that identifying is pointless. Something has to be wrong. Remember that both Shiraz and I got a lot of bounce - two sep multimeters -when just trying to measure charging voltage across battery with bike running (Stator Papers test#1 Overall Charging system health). Shiraz's 850 was rock steady with BOTH meters, my $25 cheapy and Shiraz's expensive Fluke. We also tested main ground and it was perfect.

      3. Night test = no sparks/total darkness. This rules out coil & wires.

      4. Same bounce with stator disconnected from RR. Which should be same as disconnecting RR since w/o stator connected to RR, RR has nothing to do/regulate. Not to mention we actually DID test w/o RR when old RR died before I put new one on.


      Shiraz said it can't be a switched hot grounding to frame since that would have taken out a fuse, SOOOOO....what does that leave? Only the stator I think. I am going to redo the stator output tests from Stator papers and report results / also see if anyone has other ideas before pulling the stator cover.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by Speedo View Post

        1&2. I disagree that identifying is pointless. Something has to be wrong. Remember that both Shiraz and I got a lot of bounce - two sep multimeters -when just trying to measure charging voltage across battery with bike running (Stator Papers test#1 Overall Charging system health). Shiraz's 850 was rock steady with BOTH meters, my $25 cheapy and Shiraz's expensive Fluke. We also tested main ground and it was perfect.

        .
        What is pointless is using a DC voltmeter with only one lead connected (the other open) however, this is a hobby for most so have fun.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by posplayr View Post
          What is pointless is using a DC voltmeter with only one lead connected (the other open) however, this is a hobby for most so have fun.
          Agreed. You're not measuring anything doing that, just the capacitance of your body vs the bike's electrics. Just like riding the motorcycle: try to keep both leads on the bike

          Back up a minute, set your meter to resistance, put one lead on the ground terminal of the battery, and use the other lead to measure the ground terminal at various points around the bike. It should be very low, under 5 ohms at the very least. If you find one high, even though you have a good bite with your test lead, then you know you have a bad connection there.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by cavehamster View Post
            Agreed. You're not measuring anything doing that, just the capacitance of your body vs the bike's electrics. Just like riding the motorcycle: try to keep both leads on the bike

            Back up a minute, set your meter to resistance, put one lead on the ground terminal of the battery, and use the other lead to measure the ground terminal at various points around the bike. It should be very low, under 5 ohms at the very least. If you find one high, even though you have a good bite with your test lead, then you know you have a bad connection there.
            The primary value of the measurement is it's "entertainment value"

            Comment


              #21
              Can a Stator that looks so good be so bad?

              Originally posted by Speedo View Post
              POSPlayer - thank you for your thorough response. Unf, its a bit technical for an idiot like me My counter-points:

              1&2. I disagree that identifying is pointless. Something has to be wrong. Remember that both Shiraz and I got a lot of bounce - two sep multimeters -when just trying to measure charging voltage across battery with bike running (Stator Papers test#1 Overall Charging system health). Shiraz's 850 was rock steady with BOTH meters, my $25 cheapy and Shiraz's expensive Fluke. We also tested main ground and it was perfect.

              3. Night test = no sparks/total darkness. This rules out coil & wires.

              4. Same bounce with stator disconnected from RR. Which should be same as disconnecting RR since w/o stator connected to RR, RR has nothing to do/regulate. Not to mention we actually DID test w/o RR when old RR died before I put new one on.


              Shiraz said it can't be a switched hot grounding to frame since that would have taken out a fuse, SOOOOO....what does that leave? Only the stator I think. I am going to redo the stator output tests from Stator papers and report results / also see if anyone has other ideas before pulling the stator cover.
              Update on this saga:
              Reperformed stator tests:
              1. Resistance between legs was OK - all below 2ohms and about even at 1.5ish
              2. Each stator leg to ground were all OK - no resistance (infinite reading as should be)
              3. Output in AC volts between each pair of legs @ 4k rpm - what the hell? Readings would peak @ about 65-70 as should, but reading were jumping all over the place - JUST LIKE our weird "ghost ground pulse"!!
              4. So I bit the bullet and took the cover off. Everything - wires as well as stator legs look perfect! But I still think it HAS to be a bad 30yr old stator, so I'm going to order a new one.


              BTW, getting this hugely heavy thing up and leaning on the rear stand all by myself was a bit dicey and nerve-wracking, but I succeeded!!

              Comment


                #22
                I am at wits end. Update, but first:
                1. Someone with a late 70's GS (besides ShirazDrum who already did this) please take 1 minute, do the following, and report back:
                ***attach either lead of multimeter set to volts to any part of the frame, leave the other side unconnected to anything, and see reading=nothing (like Shiraz's bike) OR if the voltmeter goes crazy with readings jumping all over the place (like my bike). My thinking is, with all the discussion about a "sneak path" ground via frame and all, could this possibly be "normal" and I'm doing all this work/worrying for nothing??***


                2. Took stator out (as in it's on my workbench), reattached cover, CRAZY voltage readings unchanged/still there. Cause = NOT stator.

                3. RR totally disconnected to anything. CRAZY voltage readings unchanged/still there. Cause = NOT RR.

                4. Night test of plugs wires = darkness. Impedance test of all plug wires =apx .2 (or .02 I forget) ohms, within specs from what I read.

                5. Unbolted both coils from frame, CRAZY voltage readings still there BUT slower fluctuation and looked like lower voltage spikes, most notable when handling left (cyl 1-4) coil (other coil didn't make as much difference).

                6. Wrapped both coils in rubber sheething and suspended out apx 4 inches away from bike: CRAZY voltage readings still there but slower fluctuation and same as test#5.

                7. Performed primary coil resistance test per Dyna site. Both coils tested ok. Tried to perform secondary resistance test per Dyna site but I could not get any readings (I have a cheap $25 mm btw). No idea why or how important 2ary res is but, since it's supposed to test coil "output" (ie to plug wires) and since bike runs great, may I assume not important/relevant to my problem?


                WHAT ELSE CAN THIS POSSIBLY BE? RUNNING OUT OF STUFF TO TEST (AS i SLOWLY GO INSANE)!!!

                Last, before everyone/anyone reiterates that this crazy frame reading is not relevant or important, I want to reiterate that the whole reason I believe it IS important/a problem is because when I do the basic charging system voltage reading across the battery w/ bike running (aka Test#1 in Stator Papers), I got the SAME type of fluctuations, just a little slower so I can actually read the meter at times. Again, Shiraz's bike got rock solid NO fluctuations readings for Test#1 with BOTH my cheapo and his expensive voltmeters.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Don't know about anyone else, but I'm getting dizzy just following the updates and trying to figure out the shorthand.

                  "2ary res"?? Maybe "secondary resistance"?

                  "unf"??

                  and others, I'm sure.

                  .
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                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by Speedo View Post
                    I am at wits end. Update, but first:
                    1. Someone with a late 70's GS (besides ShirazDrum who already did this) please take 1 minute, do the following, and report back:
                    ***attach either lead of multimeter set to volts to any part of the frame, leave the other side unconnected to anything, and see reading=nothing (like Shiraz's bike) OR if the voltmeter goes crazy with readings jumping all over the place (like my bike). My thinking is, with all the discussion about a "sneak path" ground via frame and all, could this possibly be "normal" and I'm doing all this work/worrying for nothing??***


                    2. Took stator out (as in it's on my workbench), reattached cover, CRAZY voltage readings unchanged/still there. Cause = NOT stator.

                    3. RR totally disconnected to anything. CRAZY voltage readings unchanged/still there. Cause = NOT RR.

                    4. Night test of plugs wires = darkness. Impedance test of all plug wires =apx .2 (or .02 I forget) ohms, within specs from what I read.

                    5. Unbolted both coils from frame, CRAZY voltage readings still there BUT slower fluctuation and looked like lower voltage spikes, most notable when handling left (cyl 1-4) coil (other coil didn't make as much difference).

                    6. Wrapped both coils in rubber sheething and suspended out apx 4 inches away from bike: CRAZY voltage readings still there but slower fluctuation and same as test#5.

                    7. Performed primary coil resistance test per Dyna site. Both coils tested ok. Tried to perform secondary resistance test per Dyna site but I could not get any readings (I have a cheap $25 mm btw). No idea why or how important 2ary res is but, since it's supposed to test coil "output" (ie to plug wires) and since bike runs great, may I assume not important/relevant to my problem?


                    WHAT ELSE CAN THIS POSSIBLY BE? RUNNING OUT OF STUFF TO TEST (AS i SLOWLY GO INSANE)!!!

                    Last, before everyone/anyone reiterates that this crazy frame reading is not relevant or important, I want to reiterate that the whole reason I believe it IS important/a problem is because when I do the basic charging system voltage reading across the battery w/ bike running (aka Test#1 in Stator Papers), I got the SAME type of fluctuations, just a little slower so I can actually read the meter at times. Again, Shiraz's bike got rock solid NO fluctuations readings for Test#1 with BOTH my cheapo and his expensive voltmeters.
                    Like one of the every experience engineers I used to work with.

                    "You are poised to learn something"

                    At the moment, I'm just not sure what

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                      Like one of the every experience engineers I used to work with.

                      "You are poised to learn something"

                      At the moment, I'm just not sure what
                      LOL! That is funny right there, I don't care who you are! Thanks for the laugh and more helpful than you might think (ie whatever it is, it's not the end of the world....it'll all work out eventually). Thanks, I needed that!


                      Originally posted by Steve View Post
                      Don't know about anyone else, but I'm getting dizzy just following the updates and trying to figure out the shorthand.

                      "2ary res"?? Maybe "secondary resistance"?

                      "unf"??

                      and others, I'm sure.

                      .
                      Steve - I apologize. Your input (and POS and a few others) are specifically the ones who's input/advice I look to, so critique noted. Language (unlike electronics) IS something I'm good at so I assume others can follow as easily as I would be able to. Mea culpa (my bad...there I go again).

                      First, I tried to include the whole problem in this last update so nobody should have to read any further back into the string to figure out what's going on and/or comment/help.

                      Shorthand translations(note to self: avoid in the future, some folks don't have kids that "text"):
                      "2ary res" = "secondary resistance"
                      "unf" = "unfortunately"
                      "RR" = voltage regulator/rectifier (Honda 6 wire unit retrofit)
                      "apx" = approximately
                      "mm" = multimeter / multitester / voltmeter
                      "btw" = by the way

                      That's all that I see, rest seems clear (to me at least).

                      So what do you think? Did either of you guys run the 20second voltmeter to frame test (#1 BOLD in my post below) to see if you get any kind of readings?
                      Can you please try it for me?

                      Comment


                        #26
                        You try a different battery?

                        Ohm out the ground lug of the battery to frame ground?

                        Comment


                          #27
                          caveH - battery 100% good (took to 2 local bike shops) and me and ShirazDrum ohmed out the main ground and found it to be perfect - both way back in the thread - so sorry, apparently I didn't put the "whole" nightmare ordeal deal in my last post.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Time to torch it and claim the insurance money.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Love to but just can't. She ("Suzi"'s) family. Had her for 20 years. Bought her from one of my best buds who had her for 5 years before that and who still comes to visit me from OH to CA and rides her. BikeAnAsia is just not an option.
                              You (and everyone else including me) will have to do better. Think man, think!! Then help!

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by Speedo View Post
                                Love to but just can't. She ("Suzi"'s) family. Had her for 20 years. Bought her from one of my best buds who had her for 5 years before that and who still comes to visit me from OH to CA and rides her. BikeAnAsia is just not an option.
                                You (and everyone else including me) will have to do better. Think man, think!! Then help!
                                Maybe you could get a big glass display case to put it in.

                                Comment

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