Oil Coolers

[posplayr]

They do the trick on warm engines. Warm as in phycially and as in modded engines. And there is always the WOW (wank) factor.

Sharpy Engine looks great and spotless; Nice touch with the Yoshi sticker up front.

[posplayr]

My 83 1100E has no problem getting up into the 280F range without running hard. I put on the smallest of the "advance design" oil coolers from JC Whitney (on the advice from the OldKawMan website) and engine temperatures stay put at approximately 210F, which I consider ideal. Just for everyone's info, you don't need an 1150 oil filter cover. I machined down a brass slug to a sliding fit in the original oil port inside the motor and drilled a 3mm hole in it. It will slide out a bit under pressure, sure, but if it's long enough, there's plenty of support to keep it in place, and the oil cooler will do its job just fine. You can cut a deep "X" across the end to ensure that the 3mm hole is not plugged off when the slug slides forward to touch the oil filter cover on the backside. You can pull the slug out completely in the colder month to bypass the cooler altogether.

I live in So Cal coast, so average winter/summer day time temps vary by about only about 15-20 degrees so not much concern for me, but the plug swap is a good idea. It would also work for anyone that wants to disable their cooler in winter can swap the 1100 oil cooler back on in winter. 1150 cover in summer.

The plug is a good idea; the bleed hole is a +1 as that does mimic the factory configuration.

Chef1366, made a plug using a bolt, nut and an Rubber o-ring. It doesn't slip, and if center drilled as you describe would achieve the desired bleed.

[sharpy]

Sharpy Engine looks great and spotless; Nice touch with the Yoshi sticker up front.

That Yoshi sticker has been on there since 81, too afraid to pull it off now lol And thanks

[Mysuzyq]

They do the trick on warm engines. Warm as in phycially and as in modded engines. And there is always the WOW (wank) factor.

Your whole bike is WOW worthy!
Tony.

[oshanac]

SHARPY- I had to save your picture on my computer. That thing looks gorgeous!!!

[Road_Clam]

If the majority of your riding is in traffic, in Phoenix,

An oil cooler is not going to do it's job if you are stuck in traffic. An oil cooler needs forced airflow to work......


My personall opinion, after driving my GS with and without an oil cooler is they are not necessary, unless you consistantly drive at speed in the southern desert heat. Do they more cool your engine ? definately. My Lockhart cooler dropped my oil temps from 210F, down to about 170F. I always wondered if running my engine at 170F was not good either. I have heard that air cooled motorcycle engines need the oil temps up over 210 to run correctly?

[Mysuzyq]

I always wondered if running my engine at 170F was not good either. I have heard that air cooled motorcycle engines need the oil temps up over 210 to run correctly?

They run correctly at both temps, but a little above 212F is ideal, so water condensation can be boiled off. The Lockhart cooler must be a larger capacity (more passes) than the 1150 item, if you cannot reach 212F even in warmer weather.....maybe look at adding a thermostat.....I think they were equipped with them on several Lockhart coolers, so you should be able to find one, or mod another to work.
Tony.

[sharpy]

For anyone wanting more pics have a look at my p/bucket pics.......

http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p55/sharpywheelie/

And yes there snakes and no there harmless.

[posplayr]

For anyone wanting more pics have a look at my p/bucket pics.......

http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p55/sharpywheelie/

And yes there snakes and no there harmless.

Bikes are very cool.

The snake is very scary

The purple turtle is cute.

Thanks for the pics. Very nice; I dont see those every day for sure.

[Redman]

I concur with the "if you get stuck in traffic, you may want to consider it" crowd. I almost melted the top end of the motor off one day when I was sitting stopped at in traffic at the beach, one hot summer, a long, long time ago.

-- Frank --

Frank,

I dont know if I have ever seen you make a comment/posting about something related to a GS motorcycle. Good. Glad to see that not all your time taken up by forumn administation details (or dealing with bickering members).

Dave "Redman"

[Speedo]

I'm a little late to this post, but my 2 (or 3, 4, 5) cents:

* I vote no, oil cooler is not necessary. Stockers (like more recent water-cooled hot rods) would have come with if so, I say. An engine that runs too cool is almost as bad as an engine that runs too hot.

* I vote yes, they look cool (cool bike Sparky!), but GS's can look pretty darn cool w/o too (I think so at least)




* I second that, things can heat up real quick stuck in traffic when you're air cooled. I treat those situations like I'm holding my breath...if I'm sitting longer than 2 or 3 minutes, I shut the motor off.

* I like the idea of an oil temp gauge though. Gonna think about that one. I'm definitely a fan of actually "seeing" what's going on vs. guessing.

* Best engine temps for power and efficiency are actually in the 220-230degF range (source: various hotrod books read over the years by Vizard (V8s), Yunick (Chevy), Raven (vw), Dempsey (porsche), etc). Problem used to be conventional oil film strength falls apart above about 210F. No longer a problem with new and much better Synthetic / Synth blend oils (fine to over 300F before any breakdown worries). Good synthetic or blend oil = great insurance.

* Leaner = hotter, Richer = cooler. Newer bikes run very lean for emissions which means much stricter control of engine temp is necessary to prevent meltdown; this is one reason why there are so few air-cooled bikes (and cars such as Porsche 911) left. Not as big a worry for our older, jetted for power (ie richer, apx 12::1 air to fuel) bikes.

* And last "cent":

An oil cooler is not going to do it's job if you are stuck in traffic. An oil cooler needs forced airflow to work......

I disagree. An oil cooler, like the fins on our air-cooled bikes, and like the "radiator" on your car, works like (and is): a radiator. This means that it sheds excess heat via radiating that heat away via the fins. So the cooler (like your finned air-cooled bike's cylinders and head) WILL still "work" if stuck in traffic. Just not as well. Depending on oil heat vs cooler size/capacity. Hence why cars have radiator fans to help out and "pull" cool air over the radiator fins, even at idle/while stopped. There is a distinction is all I'm saying....adding an oil cooler adds "fins" and will certainly add radiant cooling capacity regardless of speed.

That said, I still think most of us don't need em, they're cluttery looking, and add potential for leaks. Money and time can be better spent (e.g. Sparky - get a header (if you already have, that much better/easier), some K&N pods on there, rejet your carbs, and feel the ridiculous difference it makes. You can thank me later).

Fun stuff. Cheers to all

[Speedo]

Sharpy - ok, just looked at your pics. Sweet (and I sit humbled).
Now I say: forget the pods, keep the rack

[ReTread]

Sharpy - ok, just looked at your pics. Sweet (and I sit humbled).
Now I say: forget the pods, keep the rack

That bike rack sure looks functional.


BTW Sharpy, very very nice bike.

[pontiacstogo]

Well I like 'em.

And an inline thermostat should solve any 'running too cold' concerns;

[piers006]

Stators quo!!

I'm surprised that none of you remembered that the HOT OIL is what destroys the stator's insulation and keeps RICK in business. I just got a nice big Ford(ugh)tranny cooler for my 1100e. I agree that the engines will live through a great deal of heat but not our poor little alternators. When I got my bike it made a noise and upon opening the alt cover I found a new aftermarket stator w loose bolts-the guy had troubles and just wanted to unload what he thought was a troublesome machine. His loss my GEM! Oil doesn't work well until 100F or so but whoever thinks 210 is fine might be thinking of deep frying. Guzzi John