So, what's everyone's favorite pad type? Or brand? I'm looking for maximum performance, mostly, cost and longevity are secondary.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Brake Pads: Organic or Semi-Metallic
Collapse
X
-
Turtleface
Brake Pads: Organic or Semi-Metallic
Well, the rear brakes are just about done, and I figure I might as well toss new fronts on as well. Not sure how old these current pads are, but I'm sure that technology has improved since they were installed. So, I'm in the market for new pads. Rotors still have plenty of life in them. Anyone have any recommendations? I prefer to purchase the best I can afford, I've had fewer problems with parts that are of a quality build, versus those that are poorly assembled. I'm going to flush the brake lines and refill with new fluid as well, while I'm at it. Hoses are original, but they don't look soft, and have no leaks. They're getting replaced with stainless lines as soon as funds allow. Fork seals take priority, since the stock brake system is still adequate.
So, what's everyone's favorite pad type? Or brand? I'm looking for maximum performance, mostly, cost and longevity are secondary.Tags: None
-
Originally posted by Turtleface View PostSo, what's everyone's favorite pad type? Or brand? I'm looking for maximum performance, mostly, cost and longevity are secondary.
One thing that will help determine what will be the best pad for you will be to determine just how you plan on using your bike. If you will be cruising around, doing average stuff (like most of us do), then organic will do you just fine. They will even be decent for an occasional trip to the mountains that are not too far from you. As long as you don't try to set time records for descents from the top, organics will be fine. They will tend to fade when they get hot, but most of us don't work them that hard.
Semi-metallics will be better for resisting heat fade, but at the expense of eating away at the rotor.
Ceramics are even better for resisting heat fade, but aren't worth a tinker's damn until they are warm, so that makes them pretty useless for average street use. Much better on the track, where you know how much you are going to be using the brakes.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
-
Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35600
- Torrance, CA
If your funds are limited you will get more bang for your buck by replacing the rubber brake lines for Teflon/stainless type compared to changing out brake pads that still have life in them. You can build a set of Earl’s lines for about $100 for both front and rear. Suzuki calls for changing the OE rubber lines every TWO years so yours are 27 years past due.
Regarding pads, EBC organic pads work well and won’t hurt your rotors. Ferodo Platinum pads are reputed to be good as well. Semi metallic pads will tear up your brake rotors so I’d stay clear of this type although they are reputed to have good braking performance.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
Comment
-
Turtleface
Organic it is, then. I'd do the lines now, but I've got my budget tied up in fixing my speedo and fork seals. Lines are next on the list.
Comment
-
67fire
Last edited by Guest; 11-02-2009, 04:38 PM.
Comment
-
Originally posted by 67fire View Post
How are they for braking effort?
Do they come on harder when they heat up?
Comment
-
67fire
-
Originally posted by 67fire View PostHe only has one front brake?
Eric
I meant pulling to one side is not an issue, as smaller bikes with only one brake don't pull to the side with the brake.
Comment
-
67fire
If you know what I am referring to, you would want your front brakes to stop true when you have to slam on the binders.
Just sayin'
Eric
Comment
-
TheCafeKid
Originally posted by 67fire View PostIf you know what I am referring to, you would want your front brakes to stop true when you have to slam on the binders.
Just sayin'
Eric
I will agree however that I HAVE felt what I would call "pulling" from one side or the other on bikes whose brakes had a problem on one side or the other. By all rights it SHOULDNT physicly happen, but I cant deny what Ive felt in the bars.
Comment
-
Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
I will agree however that I HAVE felt what I would call "pulling" from one side or the other on bikes whose brakes had a problem on one side or the other. By all rights it SHOULDNT physicly happen, but I cant deny what Ive felt in the bars.
One of my big old BMWs stopped crooked until I highsided it, then it stopped perfectly straight after that.
Comment
-
67fire
TCK wrote: "My friend I think we would ALL love for our big ol GS to "stoppie" when we slam em on,"
Well, I can tell you one thing for a fact, mine did just that!
A person decided to run a light and darn near got me!!!
I grabbed with my full hand and the rear end went skyward!
SBS brakes, only improvement from stock.
Missed my front tire by mere inches!!!
Eric
Comment
-
I chew up organic and semi-metallic on my rear brake. I have three spare rear rotors just in case.
They've been rebuilt.
Should you use the rear to stop at 120mph?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
67fire
-
Originally posted by 67fire View PostWhy not? For you, that is cruising speed.
Eric
TOO relaxed you say?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
Comment