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Believe the stealer??

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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82 Gs11e, Charging system is out, checked the stator and i have 75V from all three wires (max). checked wiring and found R/R plug melted and same up by the headlight(harness) changed out wires. so went to shop and got a R/R. installed it and with bike running and revved it still is putting out 12 V. needle on Voltmeter is not moving up. Called shop he said i need 100-105 V to charge system. i thought 75 was good, he said not enough V to charge batt??? any help before i take her into the shop??
PLEASE
 
Re: Believe the stealer??

bostrom155 said:
82 Gs11e, Charging system is out, checked the stator and i have 75V from all three wires (max). checked wiring and found R/R plug melted and same up by the headlight(harness) changed out wires. so went to shop and got a R/R. installed it and with bike running and revved it still is putting out 12 V. needle on Voltmeter is not moving up. Called shop he said i need 100-105 V to charge system. i thought 75 was good, he said not enough V to charge batt??? any help before i take her into the shop??
PLEASE

The stealer is wrong. 75vac is sufficient output from the stator. I could not get the correct output from the RR til I soldered the stator connections and ran a ground from the RR to the Negative post on battery. I sure wouldn't take my bike back to the same shop, but then I wouldn't take my bike to any shop :?
 
I agree, 75V should be enough. I forgot the exact numbers from the service manual, but I think it should be around 70-80 at 5000rpm for my bike (83 750ES).
 
Your voltage is fine...clean all your grounds and as many connectors as you can. Add a ground between the rectifier/regulator (R/R) and the negitive side of the battery. Make sure you have a good ground between the motor and the frame. If that does not help, replace the R/R with a unit from Electrex:

http://www.electrexusa.com/electrex_regulators_Suz03.html

Hap
 
Hope not to sound dumb, but the R/R has a ground i hooked to the neg on the batt, should thier be an additional one? i'll look for the ground from motor to frame. thanks for the help guys.
 
I was having problems with my system too! Check my post "hot stator wires too". my problem was a piece of metal shorting between two of my fuses. good luck! I had to take the fuse box off before I could see it.
 
It sounds like a problem that I have recently had with my '85 GSX1100efe, I was getting the voltage from the stator (80V) but the battery was not charging. I found the problem to be the stator windings shorting to the engine casing, check the stator wires for resistance to the engine casing bolts, it should be infinity.
 
It sounds like a problem that I have recently had with my '85 GSX1100efe, I was getting the voltage from the stator (80V) but the battery was not charging. I found the problem to be the stator windings shorting to the engine casing, check the stator wires for resistance to the engine casing bolts, it should be infinity.
 
Did the ohms test to the three leads from stator and they all came to zero, so i guess i'm calling electrex and ordering a stator? thank for the help guys
 
bostrom155 said:
Did the ohms test to the three leads from stator and they all came to zero, so i guess i'm calling electrex and ordering a stator? thank for the help guys

So how did you get 75v in your initial test?
 
Sorry, yes i got 75 V from all three wires, i'm using a cheap ohm meter but when i tested ohms on the three wires it pegged the meter out to zero (actually past) an electric shop up the street will let me use his meter but i'm sure it will be the same i have 0 to 0.5 to 1 ohm ect. measurement on mine so i should see .5
 
bostrom155 said:
Sorry, yes i got 75 V from all three wires, i'm using a cheap ohm meter but when i tested ohms on the three wires it pegged the meter out to zero (actually past) an electric shop up the street will let me use his meter but i'm sure it will be the same i have 0 to 0.5 to 1 ohm ect. measurement on mine so i should see .5

Unless I'm missing something it sounds like your stator is Ok. :?:
 
Dan, when doing the ohms test, you don't want anything on the meter. Going to zero means no resistance, straight to ground. You want infinate resistance when doing the test.
 
I thought the ohm reading should be (according to stator papers) between .5 and 2.0 ohms. between the three leads. i see the needle going all the way over to zero??
 
You might get your meter checked. A cheapie unit may not be able to catch the tiny number differences.

A digital one gives a better reading.

Try using the one from the shop and see what you get,

As you are getting high (75V) output on the voltage side, it sounds like your stator is OK.
 
Sorry, I was confused. I thought you were on the second part of the test. Definately get a good meter. And to clarify, .5-2 when reading between two wires, infinity when testing to ground.
 
I sure don't pretend to actually understand all this electrical stuff, but I would think that if the no load vac test checks then the stator is good. If the stator can check correct vac and be bad then would one of our many electrical guru's help me understand. :?
 
HIGH OHM Readings

HIGH OHM Readings

Hi there ... I did the Voltage test on my 86gs750es and got 0 volts... not a smidgen... and I had an overly electrical friend help me out to do them too... with a decent multimeter ...

THEN, did the OHM test,... smallest setting I think... and got like 3.5 on some ... 4, 5ohms (but NEVER in the 0.5-2.0 range) ...

My stator's F$(%'d
d'oh
Add that on to my 2nd gear time, and I am shopping for a new engine...
 
The only conclusion that I came up with was that although I was getting 80V from the stator, the short in the stator meant that I was getting little or no current. From my extremely basic knowledge of electrics the current is what pushes voltage around a circuit, so even with the correct voltage from the stator it cannot charge the battery. Hopefully someone else may be able to explain this better.
 
I agree with Dan...if you are getting 75V from the stator at 5000 rpm it should be fine. With the engine off and the ignition in the off position, you should get zero ohms when you check resistance from each of the stator leads (not the regulator/rectifier leads) to ground (this is with the stator mounted on the bike), and a small amount of resistance (.5 to 5 ohms) when you check resistance between any two stator leads. But the ultimate test is if you are getting the voltage from the stator, which you are.

If you have a short in the stator to ground then you will not see any voltage unless it is intermittent. If there is a short it will quickly heat the stator winding to the point that you will have an open wire with infinite resistance.


Hap
 
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