Just a couple questions.

[SuzukiGS]

So on my bike my Clutch Cable is really hard to squeeze down. Takes all my force in my hand to completely release my clutch. What all do I have to do to either replace the cable or grease it up?

More to come i'm sure.

Thanks
Zachary Green

[Steve]

You might be able to "grease it up", but, for the effort and time involved, just get a new cable. Try to make sure it's a genuine Suzuki cable, though.

Any new cable is nice, but genuine OEM is ... nicer.

.

[Big T]

Is this a new development?

[nisom512]

You might be able to "grease it up", but, for the effort and time involved, just get a new cable. Try to make sure it's a genuine Suzuki cable, though.

Any new cable is nice, but genuine OEM is ... nicer.

.

its not that hard to grease it. I just used some PB blaster and took the cable out and sprayed it on both ends and moved the cable a bunch then repeated that till it got better. and I loved the cable after that. but maybe I was just lucky.

Jake

[SuzukiGS]

Okay guys, they're not expensive so i might just buy a brand new one altogether. How hard is it to replace it?

Also, I need new grips, what is the standard length that the grips should be? The ones that were on the bike were like an inch too long.

And then, on the throttle lever, the plastic part under the grip, is broken. Where can I get a new one of those?

Thanks,
Zachary Green

[bwringer]

Care to reveal what sort of vehicle you're working on, or is that classified information?

If it's a GS with a clutch release mechanism under the sprocket cover, sometimes the release mechanism needs to be cleaned out and greased. It's a ball bearing and ramp mechanism that will make sense in person but is nearly impossible to describe.

Anyway, if the grease has all dried out inside of it or it's all dirty inside, it can cause these types of issues.

[kinnet]

Care to reveal what sort of vehicle you're working on, or is that classified information?

If it's a GS with a clutch release mechanism under the sprocket cover, sometimes the release mechanism needs to be cleaned out and greased. It's a ball bearing and ramp mechanism that will make sense in person but is nearly impossible to describe.

Anyway, if the grease has all dried out inside of it or it's all dirty inside, it can cause these types of issues.

He's got a 1978 Suzuki GS750EC.
I don't think anyone has suggested he put this info in his signature line...

[koolaid_kid]

It's up to you, of course, but there really is no need to replace it unless it has started to fray (broken strands on the ends), the outer sheath is bent, or you can't free it up for whatever reason (I've never seen this happen, but I've only been riding for +40 years). The best way to clean it is to remove it completely and use a cable lubricant that clamps to one end of the cable. You'll want this anyway for normal maintenance, so it's not really an added expense.
If you choose to replace it, be sure and keep the old one as a spare. I have been on multiple rides where someone has broken a cable and needed a replacement (try finding one in Robbinsville N.C. like me).

[tkent02]

First check for improper routing, too sharp a curve and it will be hard to pull. A kink will also make it hard to pull, might be able to straighten it, maybe not. I have seen cables worn internally so they have a lot of friction when installed, but the inner cable slides through easily when it is off the bike. If that's the case it needs to be replaced.

If none of these problems exist lubing the cable should work well.
There are cable lubers sold at bike shops that shoot the oil down the length of the cable, or you can do it any number of other ways.

[Pete Logan]

If you don't have a manual that shows the correct cable routing, run string alongside it before you take it out, and you'll have some chance of getting it back in right.

[SuzukiGS]

Thanks guys. I should get back to you tomorrow with how it goes and maybe some pictures of the bike.

And yeah, its the GS750EC

[blowerbike]

if it has flat handlebars or non OEM bars...
that could be the problem because of improper routing or just tight bends.
one sharp bend can make your lever feel as if it has the heaviest heavy duty springs made installed.
also if its routed near the hot engine or exhaust...the plastic shielding on the cable will melt internally and start binding.