Ball hone sizing...

[hikermikem]

I'm planning to hone & re-ring my 1100EX & I've just started to research ball (flex) hones.

My cylinder bore dia is 72mm (stock), and I see the hones come in standard sizes:

2 7/8" dia = 73mm
3.00" dia = 76mm

Which size is the best choice?

I'm looking at the BC type flex hone, aluminum oxide abrasive, 320 grit - is this right??

http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=1

TIA,

Mike

[bwringer]

The 2 7/8" should work just fine.

I've used one of these Flex-Hones several times, with excellent results. I use a cheapo (slow) cordless drill and lots of motor oil. Keep it moving and never stop the drill in the bores.

It makes an oily mess, but the finish looks and works great.

[hikermikem]

The 2 7/8" should work just fine.

I've used one of these Flex-Hones several times, with excellent results. I use a cheapo (slow) cordless drill and lots of motor oil. Keep it moving and never stop the drill in the bores.

It makes an oily mess, but the finish looks and works great.

Thanks Brian,

That's the size I was leaning towards...

Any suggestions regarding the least expensive (code for CHEAP) place to get one??

Thanks,

[tkent02]

You do know to keep the hone going in and out so that the angles of the honing marks is somewhere close to 45 degrees? A drill that runs at a very steady slow speed is nice.

[hikermikem]

You do know to keep the hone going in and out so that the angles of the honing marks is somewhere close to 45 degrees? A drill that runs at a very steady slow speed is nice.

No, not really... I've never honed a cylinder before, although the concept seems pretty straight forward.

Assuming my cylinder walls are "nominal" (engine has 39K showing), meaning they're neither scored nor perfect, what's the approx time I should hone each? Is it like 30 sec of moving the hone through the bore, or more like a couple of minutes ??

I'm looking forward to this new experience.

thanks

[Nessism]

You tube has some videos of how to hone a cylinder; the pros use solvent to flush the grit away while honing and they don’t exactly go slow. The ball hones themselves are not cheap and they come in various grits. I’m not sure what’s best for the type of rings Suzuki uses so you should do some homework before purchasing.

[tkent02]

No, not really... I've never honed a cylinder before, although the concept seems pretty straight forward.

Assuming my cylinder walls are "nominal" (engine has 39K showing), meaning they're neither scored nor perfect, what's the approx time I should hone each? Is it like 30 sec of moving the hone through the bore, or more like a couple of minutes ??

I'm looking forward to this new experience.

thanks

I suppose it depends on how tight the hone fits in the bore, the oil used, and the speed if the drill. You want it a slow as it will hold a steady speed, maybe one rotation per second if your drill will do it. At first the cylinder will show a few scratches, get your hand moving in and out at the rate that makes these scratch marks close to 45 degrees. A drill which will hold a very steady slow speed is best, like a cordless drill with a two speed gearbox on the low speed or "torque" setting. Some drills only go slow by being at very low power, and they won't hold a steady speed at all, makes it impossible to get the marks at a decent angle. Soon the scratches will start to fill in, it starts to look like a non shiny surface instead of a shiny surface with scratches on it. it looks like a cross hatch pattern. If you hone it any more it does not make any difference in the surface, you are done.

If the cylinder is very worn, some areas will get to the correct cross hatch pattern sooner than others, where the rings reverse direction at the top of the bore will likely show the most wear, and will be the last to take on the cross hatch pattern. You don't need to cut through until every bit of this is gone, just get the scratches started there.

The rings will seat and it will have good compression once it is broken in.

[hikermikem]

You tube has some videos of how to hone a cylinder; the pros use solvent to flush the grit away while honing and they don’t exactly go slow. The ball hones themselves are not cheap and they come in various grits. I’m not sure what’s best for the type of rings Suzuki uses so you should do some homework before purchasing.

Agreed, so far my research has pointed me towards using #320 grit, aluminum oxide abrasive - 73mm dia flex hone... I will work some more to validate that info, but it would be nice to hear what others are using.

Thanks Ed,

Mike

[waterman]

I purchased a ball hone through ebay, check these:

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=cylinder+hone+2+7%2F8%22&_sacat=0&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_sop=1&_dmpt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&_odkw=cylinder+hone&_osacat=0

I am not sure which grit I used, think it was 180 can check at lunch in about 10 minutes or so.

I agree with Mr Ness, watched a video online of honing, really goes very quickly, maybe 30 seconds per cylinder and keep moving, use plenty of oil. Clean it many, many times with detergent afterwards, need to remove all grit.

It was very easy to do and I would do again. Not sure if I still have post hone pics around, will search for.

[hikermikem]

General info with video about cylinder homing...

General info on cylinder honing:

http://www.enginehones.com/technical.html

After reviewing this, I think the appropiate hone abrasive is aluminum oxide, #240 grit for general deglazing...

[jn6967]

Everyones suggestions are right on the money. I have used those hones in rebuilding small block chevy engines (cheap rebuilds). The one word of caution I have is to be careful of the ridge that might form on the top of the bore. There sometimes is a ridge formed by the rings right at the top of their travel. If you do have a ridge and dont remove it you WILL break rings. A ridge reamer is available from most rental places and very easy to use. Now all my expeirence comes from working on V8 engines and am unfamiliar with the GS engines and weather they would form a ridge or not but you should still be aware.

Good luck on your rebuild.

Jon

[hikermikem]

Thanks for the heads-up... I'll look for that condition.

[tkent02]

Everyones suggestions are right on the money. I have used those hones in rebuilding small block chevy engines (cheap rebuilds). The one word of caution I have is to be careful of the ridge that might form on the top of the bore. There sometimes is a ridge formed by the rings right at the top of their travel. If you do have a ridge and dont remove it you WILL break rings. A ridge reamer is available from most rental places and very easy to use. Now all my expeirence comes from working on V8 engines and am unfamiliar with the GS engines and weather they would form a ridge or not but you should still be aware.

Good luck on your rebuild.

Jon

I have not seen a ridge on a GS engine, but I've only ever taken them apart with 120,000 or less miles, perhaps a high mileage engine would develop a ridge.

[bwringer]

I have not seen a ridge on a GS engine, but I've only ever taken them apart with 120,000 or less miles, perhaps a high mileage engine would develop a ridge.

Agreed. Don't worry about a ridge.


I bought my Flex-hone from Goodson several years ago:

http://goodson.com

Their web site is still a total fustercluck, so maybe you can call them or something.



I have a cheap, nasty fixed-speed cordless driver that supposedly spins at 600 rpm. I chuck up the flex-hone, dip it in a cup of cheap oil, get it spinning before inserting it, and then evenly stroke the spinning flex-hone through each bore taking a little more than one second down and back out, maybe 1.25 seconds total (the block is supported over a plastic tub with plenty of clear area below for the hone to emerge). Each bore gets the same number of trips through -- usually between four and six. Don't ever stop the drill when it's in a bore.

It's messy as hell -- oil and grit go everywhere -- but the results are beautiful.

My bike runs OK, anyway...

[hikermikem]

Thanks Brian & Tom,

I ended up buying a hone on-line from http://www.enginehones.com/index.html

I chose a 2-7/8" dia (73mm) aluminum oxide abrasive, 240 grit flex hone.

Paid $36 and change, mailed to my door - should have it on Monday.

That seemed to be about the best price I could find...

Thanks for all the advice & hints. I've got a busy week & a half ahead of me with my "Big Red" project; I'll be rebuilding the front forks, replacing the base gasket, rings, head gasket, & mount new tires - phew!!

Then it's off to Northern VT (Burke) from Thanksgiving 'til Jan, skiing every day I hope (pray for snow).

Mike