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    valve adjustment issue

    So I'm affraid to hear the responses to this, but here it goes:

    I've never done a valve adjustment before, so I read up on it and found the zip-tie method in lieu of the tappet tool. So, I used zip ties and proceeded to take out all the shims so that I could trade them for correct sizes. In the mean-time, I'm continually turning the engine to accomplish this. I come to find out that without shims, the cam lobes grind against the tappet. So now I have pretty worn cam lobes all around! Not to mention metal particals mixed in with the oil as well. shoot.

    Have I done too severe of damage here? what is my course of action? The actual surface of the cam lobes is fine, it's the edges where they contact the tappet that wore down.

    For the record, I am very ashamed of myself. I would recommend adding this bit of warning to the resources, so the next guy doesn't get burned by lack of knowledge.

    #2
    Originally posted by Surfpilot View Post
    So I'm affraid to hear the responses to this, but here it goes:

    I've never done a valve adjustment before, so I read up on it and found the zip-tie method in lieu of the tappet tool. So, I used zip ties and proceeded to take out all the shims so that I could trade them for correct sizes. In the mean-time, I'm continually turning the engine to accomplish this. I come to find out that without shims, the cam lobes grind against the tappet. So now I have pretty worn cam lobes all around! Not to mention metal particals mixed in with the oil as well. shoot.

    Have I done too severe of damage here? what is my course of action? The actual surface of the cam lobes is fine, it's the edges where they contact the tappet that wore down.

    For the record, I am very ashamed of myself. I would recommend adding this bit of warning to the resources, so the next guy doesn't get burned by lack of knowledge.
    Use a strong magnet to get the particles picked up, get them all. Put it back together and run it, then change the oil. Use a magnetic drain plug if you can, there's always a few that get away. Keep your fingers crossed than no particles got into anything expensive.
    Next time use the proper tool for the job and don't rotate it at all with any shims missing.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      i'll use a magnet. thanks for the idea. so you don't think the wear on the cam lobes is anything to worry about???

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        #4
        You will probably be ok, You need to adjust the valves one at a time.
        Measure it, make note of the clearance, figure what shim it needs and put it back in. do this for all of them and keep good notes.
        Then you can figure what shims you can reuse and what you need to buy

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          #5
          Do a search on the shim club. It may save you a few bucks and help others here.

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            #6
            The GS1000 and 850 share cams. I have some spare 1000 cams you can have, I have extra buckets too. Drop me a PM if you want to discuss.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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              #7
              thanks guys. I actually already ordered some shims. First I went around to all the local mechanics and tried to trade...everyone was out of the size I needed(2.55). sounds like it's a popular size to bring it into spec. The new shims get in on tues. and then I'll finish up. I'll send my unused shims to the shim club.
              Last edited by Guest; 11-14-2009, 05:29 PM.

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