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'78 GS1000E Up and running, Almost ready for paint.

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    #16
    Ok. That's great. But I've never seen a properly re-jetted 1000 with your mods get that much mileage. It just doesn't happen. Mine is jetted well and gets low 40's if not much stop and go is involved. Around 36 if all city. Also, the typical 1000 speedo is off some. Many 5% or more optimistic. This can easily add 2 MPG by itself. No way it's "jetted on the rich side".
    A stock 1000 would be hard to get 52 out of. You'd need perfect mileage conditions if possible. Re-jetting takes more fuel.
    I always comment when I see something that I know isn't right. It's not meant as an argument. Just based on a lot of experience with your model.
    And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
    Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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      #17
      Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE View Post

      A stock 1000 would be hard to get 52 out of. You'd need perfect mileage conditions if possible. Re-jetting takes more fuel.
      Normally I would agree with you, but I have seen a few bikes and cars here and there which get much better mileage than other identical ones, maybe the one in a thousand off the assembly line that has every single detail perfect, every adjustment happens to be spot on.
      I agree it's much more likely to be a huge odometer error but it is possible.

      I rode a later 750E with a punched out 1100 engine a few months ago, when we filled up it was something like 52 or 55 mpg. The owner says he usually does about the same. Had a four into one pipe, carbs from a GSXR or Bandit or something. Very well tuned bike, very fast. My stock 1100E was not in the same ballpark, for either power or mileage.
      Last edited by tkent02; 11-20-2009, 09:27 PM.
      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

      Life is too short to ride an L.

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        #18
        Went 74 miles on my 81 1100 that needs alot of work and used 1 and a half gallons so I was shock it got that good of milage????Oh and a half quart of oil

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          #19
          Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
          I rode a later 750E with a punched out 1100 engine a few months ago, when we filled up it was something like 52 or 55 mpg. The owner says he usually does about the same. Had a four into one pipe, carbs from a GSXR or Bandit or something. Very well tuned bike, very fast. My stock 1100E was not in the same ballpark, for either power or mileage.
          OK Kent. Like I said, I'm just commenting that I think his jetting is lean, at least on the needle. I'm not talking about some exception to the rule, just based on my experience with these models. If he's lean or rich that's up to him to verify. I've also read about/communicated with the guy he had jet his carbs and I know he's made adjustments that are proven too lean.
          As for your 1100 and how it compared mileage wise with the punched out 1100, how do you explain him getting better mileage than you, if in fact both bikes are jetted properly? I mean, how can a modded 1100 achieve better mileage than your stocker? Maybe some higher gearing would help things somewhat but I don't see it myself. Intake/exhaust mods, properly jetted for, use more fuel and that's the way it is.
          And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
          Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

          Comment


            #20
            Keith, I really don't enough about the carburetors to comment on anything but what I can see and measure. I had these carbs built by George Lesho, and part of his comment on his setup was to keep an eye on the plugs because they might be a little on the rich side where the normal VM26 on the GS1000 is on the lean side. My speedometer matches the town 25MPH radar signs, if that means anything, and the plugs look just about perfect, but I can have a second opinion on that, several of my friends are mechanics. this motor as I had said before was not well maintained, and it is using quite a bit of oil recently. It overheated badly the other night going up the mountain in a traffic jam before I could find a place to pull off. The motor is likely to be changed very soon, I have two others that should be in very good shape, and may only need valve seals.
            http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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              #21
              I've been commuting on my 78 Skunk as of late. She's bone stock except for the air filter. The rear part of the air box was missing so I fabbed up a polypropylene tube filter similar to a UNI. Though the jetting is not spot on, the plug reading two days ago looked good.

              I can be a little heavy handed on the throttle when it's safe to do so.

              The best MPG she's gotten is 42 with the worst being 38.

              When fully sorted it might see 45 mpg tops.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by OldVet66 View Post
                Keith, I really don't enough about the carburetors to comment on anything but what I can see and measure. I had these carbs built by George Lesho, and part of his comment on his setup was to keep an eye on the plugs because they might be a little on the rich side where the normal VM26 on the GS1000 is on the lean side. My speedometer matches the town 25MPH radar signs, if that means anything, and the plugs look just about perfect, but I can have a second opinion on that, several of my friends are mechanics. this motor as I had said before was not well maintained, and it is using quite a bit of oil recently. It overheated badly the other night going up the mountain in a traffic jam before I could find a place to pull off. The motor is likely to be changed very soon, I have two others that should be in very good shape, and may only need valve seals.
                Allright. As I said before I'm not here to argue. People here know me. I care about this stuff. If I believe somethings wrong I speak up.
                I'd like to know what the jetting is and then I could tell you if it's in the ballpark or not. I've jetted many of these bikes and helped even more at this site. I once got in an argument with George over some things. I'm sure he may be a good guy but I know some of his comments were just to make money and not based on actual testing.
                Your bike is generally on the jet needle with some pilot jet/cut-away overlap effect, the type of riding we most do. Your engine may be getting weak but over-heating is often a sign of lean jetting. I've read in the past that George made adjustments that I know result in lean mixtures. I spoke up about that and some of his basic tuning practices and we got into it.
                One of the easiest things in the world to do is run a bike lean and think it's running well. Lean, to a point, makes more power. But if the bike is tested correctly the lean mixture will show itself.
                And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE View Post

                  As for your 1100 and how it compared mileage wise with the punched out 1100, how do you explain him getting better mileage than you, if in fact both bikes are jetted properly? I mean, how can a modded 1100 achieve better mileage than your stocker?
                  I don't claim to know how it works, I know what I saw at the pump.
                  My stocker isn't jetted perfectly, it's only how it came from Suzuki.
                  It runs a little weak at low RPMs, have not completely sorted it out yet.
                  The other bike ran much stronger at any RPM, and used less fuel.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Keith, PM me, I am interested in your opinions on my setup, but I don't think an open forum is the place to do it since there is a third party not part of the post.
                    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by OldVet66 View Post
                      Keith, PM me, I am interested in your opinions on my setup, but I don't think an open forum is the place to do it since there is a third party not part of the post.
                      I stopped doing PM's a long time ago because it got to be a part time job. I felt obligated to reply.
                      I'll open it up and PM you if you still want to but I've always felt the forum is the place to reply. We all chime in and learn. I have nothing to hide and don't need to defend things I've said. If you speak about something you don't really understand or you BS people, then you have something to defend or hide.
                      I'm really quite surprised how simple it is to jet your model. There's a narrow range of jetting that works here. Even Dynojet gives info that's a bit off the mark. They say in their jet kit sheet that it's not uncommon to have to move the jet needle 3 full positions to achieve a good mixture and they state position 1 1/2 is a good baseline to start jetting the needle. Not so. I've never seen this model run well at that baseline setting. In fact, that setting will put a hole in your piston if you go out and do any kind of riding beyond short trips. Yet some people follow that advice, do a quick test run and call it good. They really don't know what running "fat" or "surging" even is.
                      I own this model. I have for 30 years. Jetting is my niche here. I don't know it all but I try to share. If I read something that's not right, I say something. If you read old advertisements and specs about our 1000's you'll see the mpg range is generally 35 to 45. Mag' road tests are in that range but closer to the lower number.
                      If you increase the air into the motor you have to increase the fuel or it'll be lean. Pods are a big increase. Pods and lean jetting will increase your mpg over stock. You can overheat a motor with poor jetting. Fuel mileage will be less if you properly re-jet. It can't be any other way.
                      As I said earlier, jetting is fairly easy on this bike. You get the other basic tuning done and there's not much range of jetting that you have to test. If your motor is in questionable condition then that needs to be fixed first. If you have poor compression then you fix that and then work on the jetting.
                      If you really think the absence of the 3rd party means we have to PM then I will. I don't think it's necessary. We're talking about jetting. If someone gets their feelings hurt then it's related to something they shouldn't have said.
                      And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                      Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                      Comment


                        #26
                        The carbs have 117 Main jets, 20 Pilot jets and 5DL36-3 Needles clipped to the third slot.
                        Last edited by OldVet66; 11-24-2009, 08:47 AM.
                        http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                          Why are they all so clueless?
                          Every Jap bike over 250ccs for the last forty years has been faster, you'd think they would know this by now.
                          Oh, well. entertainment for us.
                          Congrats.

                          You're exaggerating again.
                          sigpic

                          82 GS850
                          78 GS1000
                          04 HD Fatboy

                          ...............................____
                          .................________-|___\____
                          ..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|

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                            #28
                            I love the 78 GS1000E.

                            Nice bike Oldvet!!!
                            sigpic

                            82 GS850
                            78 GS1000
                            04 HD Fatboy

                            ...............................____
                            .................________-|___\____
                            ..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by OldVet66 View Post
                              The carbs have 117 Main jets, 20 Pilot jets and 5DL36 Needles clipped to the third slot.
                              OK. You're lean. Very lean to be exact. With a quality pipe and K&N pods, you would possibly hole a piston if this bike went on a long ride, especially if it was hot out. Yes, there are exceptions to anything but I only refer to the extent of damage. I'm no constant racer/hard on my bike but if my bike was jetted as yours I would see engine damage on one of my typical rides through the canyons and it wouldn't have to be hot out but that would be the straw that breaks it. You are doing damage though, simply because the mixture also cools your air cooled engine and you're not getting that right now.
                              Most of the time you're on the jet needle, though that doesn't make the main and pilot circuits any less important. I believe you have the stock jet needle? The factory jet needle position is #3 (the middle on a stock needle). Why would anyone leave the needle in the factory position if they've changed to pipe/pods?? Someone who claims to understand carburetion shouldn't make this mistake. Did he even ask you? You'll need to go to position 4 1/2 if using the stock needle, possibly position 5, if the stock needle can be made to work at all. Many times it just doesn't work well and the DJ needle is needed due to it's different shape. Many here say the jet kit made things easier and the bike ran better, myself included.
                              Main jet. You say you have 117. I assume maybe you mean 117.5? There are no 117 Mikuni's. Maybe another brand? You need 130 Mikuni mains or DJ 138 (same size, just different sizing/numbering methods). A 138 is supplied by DJ in their stage 3 kits just for an example. The other is 142 if the 138 isn't rich enough. You'll want the 138. Unless there's something wrong with your engine tuning (excessive retarded timing, etc) or some condition that's creating a compensating effect, I can't see how it can run reasonably well with a main jet that small. It would still run too hot even with the timing too retarded. Often you get some pinging on uphills, stuff like that when running lean. It certainly explains SOME of your 52 MPG though. The jet needle explains the rest.
                              Pilot jet. 20 is too rich actually. You say your plugs look good, though you don't say exactly their coloring. I'll bet they're white but when you slow down and are at minimal throttle positions before shutting off, the rich pilot circuit adds some color to the plugs, giving you a false read. A 17.5 is the largest you need for your mods. Tinkering with the fine tuning pilot fuel screws will be needed. Typical stage 3 kits actually recommend to retain the stock 15 if you're running their jet needle. With a stock needle, I always suggest trying the stock 15 with richer pilot fuel screw adjustments first. If you can't dial it in, then go to 17.5.
                              Questions.....were the carbs synched with a vacuum tool? This is part of jetting. You MUST synch the carbs on your bike, not some test bike, if that's the case here. There are no "bolt on" carbs. They require vacuum synching and at least some fine tuning of the pilot fuel and side air screws. In your case, they also require a complete re-jet.
                              And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                              Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Wired George eh?? Id be ripping those carbs off there lickety split and getting them rejetted...that guy....dont get me started..

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