'78 GS1000E Up and running, Almost ready for paint.

[OldVet66]

I got my DJ Stage 3 Jet Kit #3304.001 kit from Z1 today . The printed instructions are readable, but the pictures of the carburetors they refer to are not clear at all (copies of copies of copies that have faded into nothingness). Their website (Dynojet's) is worse yet. I can't find a pdf that I can print the instructions from. I really need some help here.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Be sure the bike is ready to re-jet.
Good compression, ignition timing spot on, fresh NGK B8ES plugs, coils and all plug leads and connections good, valve clearances set, no header leaks, clean carbs w/new manifold o-rings, floats set correctly (.094" is right in the middle of factory range), K&N's oiled correctly...
Use the 138 DJ mains.
Set the e-clips on the DJ jet needles at the 4th position from the top. Be sure the 2 factory jet needle plastic spacers go back in factory order. Thick one directly on top the clip and thinner one goes under the clip.
Use stock 15 pilot jet.
Set the 4 pilot fuel screws (underneath) 1 1/4 turns out from LIGHTLY seated. I assume the screw tips are in good condition and the passage that the tips regulate are 100% clear. Fine tuning the pilot circuit will almost always be needed and may take some patience. Subtle changes have effect. Positive plug reads of the pilot circuit can be difficult to get but patience gets it done.
Set the 4 side air screws initially to 1 3/4 turns out.
Bench synch the carbs. I have detailed info at this site to show you how if needed. The better the bench synch, the quicker and easier the vacuum tool synch generally goes.
Remove the 2 floatbowl vent lines and leave the ports open to breath. Poor venting and fuel starvation can occur if you keep the lines on.
On centerstand, warm up bike fully.
Set idle to 1,000 rpm's. Adjust the side air screws using the highest rpm method. Start at any carb, slowly turn air screw in either direction until you hear the rpm's max. On most bikes, the rpm's will max somewhere between 1 1/4 to 2 turns out with 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 very common. Once set, return the idle to 1,000 using the idle adjuster knob in the lower center. Repeat to the other carbs until all 4 are set and the bike idles at 1,000.
Let the bike cool if hot. Then get 2 large fans and vacuum tool synch. I suggest synching around 3,000 rpm's. Synching can be tricky if you haven't done it before so be careful. Use a properly vented reservoir for fuel. I use the tank with extended lines saftied to a small workmate/bench. If you did a good bench synch then hopefully your initial reads of the vacuum levels will be not too far apart and easy to reasonably match. The goal is to get them as equal as possible but they don't need to be exact. If you get them set so the difference is no more than 1/2 to 3/4" from the highest to lowest the bike will run fine. I find that carefully lowering any high level(s) down to match the lower ones is easiest. However, the adjusters are very sensitive and even tightening the adjuster holder nuts without budging the adjuster screws can be difficult for learners. Do not over tighten the holder nuts. 3.5 ft/lb is factory torque. Also, over adjusting one slide can effect the other carbs and you can get into an endless cycle of back and forth so be slow and careful. If you take too long and the bike gets hot then stop and cool down. Once levels are set well and tightened firmly, CAREFULLY exercise the throttle a few times to verify the levels stay as set. Don't over-rev, just some slow revs to 5K or so and back off SLOWLY to avoid sucking in mercury if you're using a mercury filled gauge. Torque holder nuts.
Test the mains at full throttle. I doubt you'll need a change.
Test the jet needles at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. Chop off and read plugs. Do what the performance/reads say.
Test the pilot circuit at minimal throttle positions, under 1/5 throttle. For the pilot circuit, pay attention to warm up time, how much choke is needed, idle speed and correct time to return to idle, watch for heavy exhaust by idling a few seconds and revving it some. You shouldn't get a puff of dark exhaust when you blip it. You should get no significant "spitting" out of the K&N's at minimal throttle positions. Sometimes you may get a spit now and then, especially while cruising on the jet needle. This could be a lean condition but sometimes a windy day can cause it too (fuel flow/bowl venting momentarily compromised). My point is, minor jetting issues can happen and trying to completely eliminate them can lead to worse issues. Your bike may run perfect, but it may have a minor issue and that can be part of changing the intake/exhaust system. I think my bike is jetted as well as it can be but on colder mornings I can get a spit now and then but it's no big deal. You will also have some decel' popping. Too much can be a concern but some should be expected, especially when decelerating from high rpm's. The carbs are at their leanest when the rpm's are still up there, drawing fuel, but the slides are seated or nearly seated. Other than that, I've never seen any other obvious signs of leanness on the various circuits or something that needed to be changed.
Ride the bike around at minimal throttle positions, fully warmed up, then check the plugs. If you need to make pilot circuit adjustments, you should only have to adjust the pilot fuel screws underneath. Keep in mind the screws are for fine tuning each carb and absolute uniform adjustments may not be needed. One carb may need a 1/4 turn more fuel than another for example.

[OldVet66]

THANKS Keith! I'll start the rebuild Sunday, my only day off (too many computers to repair and viruses to clean up ). I got the pilot jets from "renobruce" THANKS! Bruce . They have been soaking in simple green for several days, and are looking pretty new. I had no idea simple green was such an effective cleaner. I'll post back when I get them rebuilt. I will most likely put them back on the old motor until I have time to prep the new motor. I did get the bike started the other day, and it runs ok (compared to not running) so it will love properly jetted carbs. It's been a rough winter in the Northern Virginia area. We didn't get the wood stove set up in the work space before the BIG Nor'easter hit with drifts, some, 15 ft. deep where I live. Bulldozers couldn't get through and the idiots sold the snow blowers because of the recent mild winters. It was a week before they relocated equipment that could do the job in the drift areas East of the mountain. Fortunately the Eastern back roads through the wooded areas didn't drift as much and we were only stuck for three days. I'm looking for a stator case for the new motor, and with the milder weather, I should have the new motor ready soon.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

OK. Good luck.
The jetting I gave is the most common combo I've found that works for the 1000. Once in a while the bike may like the jet needle a 1/2 position richer but not very often. The pilot circuit will generally need some tinkering of the pilot fuel screws and that's it.
The vast majority of "jetting problems" have more to do with inadequate set up/tuning/prep work than the jetting itself. That's why I gave my usual sermon to check/do those other things.
Rider and trip length/conditions can vary the MPG some but you can expect mid-30's around town and lower 40's on longer rides. Of course, how you throttle it matters a lot. This is actual mileage and not the generally optimistic readings your speedo may give. A properly jetted bike set up as yours generally loses about 3 or 4 MPG from whatever it got stock and under the same conditions. No real power gain will be there until you hit approx' 7K rpm's and then the bike WILL pull noticably harder than stock up to redline.