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2wheelN00B
Carb Dip / Noob questions...
I'm about to dip my carbs in Berryman Chem-dip, and I need to know if leaving the 'nylon?' parts (near the springs on the 'throttle valve shaft'?' the part that turns the throttle valve... Can those stay on when I dip? And if not, how do you make sure you get the spring tension back to where it was before you took it apart.Tags: None
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Alex
Originally posted by hikermikem View PostThose "nylon" parts next to the springs will be fine - leave them alone...
Hi,
I wouldn t dip nylon or plastic parts in chem dip or any kind of solvent. it could dry up over time. For info on anything carb related there is a very nice descriptive text with picture on the gs resource tech info page
for the adjustment the big screw... I checked the distance of the tread coming out. on mine it was about 3mm...
cheers
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Originally posted by Alex View PostHi,
I wouldn t dip nylon or plastic parts in chem dip or any kind of solvent. it could dry up over time.
of the many members of this board is that you CAN dip the nylon parts in Chem Dip.
I can't tell you how many sets of carbs I have dipped in the last few years, but it's well over a dozen.
Most, if not all, of them have been in the dip for 24 hours at a time. I have not had ANY problems with ANY of the sets that I have dipped.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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With the cap installed I have never taken off the little o-ring. I do have many spares in case they do decide to leak though but it hasn't happened yet.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Alex
Originally posted by Steve View PostAlex is certainly entitled to his own opinions, and he can also share them, but the overwhelming experience
of the many members of this board is that you CAN dip the nylon parts in Chem Dip.
I can't tell you how many sets of carbs I have dipped in the last few years, but it's well over a dozen.
Most, if not all, of them have been in the dip for 24 hours at a time. I have not had ANY problems with ANY of the sets that I have dipped.
.
How ever Manuals related to mechanics, car motorcycle small motor... usually say that carb cleaner can damage rubber or nylon parts. So I usually avoid it. If the nylon part in question is a superficial part and sealing affect of the nylon isnt to important than you might dip it.
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by Alex View PostIts great that you share your overwhelming experience and speak as a ambassador of the carb rebuilders of the gsresource .
How ever Manuals related to mechanics, car motorcycle small motor... usually say that carb cleaner can damage rubber or nylon parts. So I usually avoid it. If the nylon part in question is a superficial part and sealing affect of the nylon isnt to important than you might dip it.
Break the carbs down. Pull all of the easily removeable nylon plastic and rubber. Dip em. The tutorial has worked for every single member here if they followed it. And I'd bet if you polled the entire GSR 95% of them don't remove those parts.
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Originally posted by TheCafeKid View PostAnd I'd bet if you polled the entire GSR 95% of them don't remove those parts.
A second reason is, like TCK says, the stuff just ain't the same as it was when the cautions were written.
Alex, where in that "For info on anything carb related" link that you mentioned does it ever say anything about removing them? Look on page 80, it shows the carb body "ready to dip" with the throttle shaft installed.
With the anonymous venue of a written forum, it is hard to see a degree of sincerity or a twinkle in an eye when posts are made. I was not being pompous and elevating myself to "ambassador of the carb rebuilders" status, I was merely relaying the experience of those that have bothered to mention anything about doing their carbs, that is why the word experience was a bit emphasized. On the other hand, I get a bit of apparent arrogance in return. With your current status of "Junior Member" with only 10 posts to your name, I have absolutely no idea what your experience is regarding mechanical things in general or motorcycle mechanics in particular. You could be a teenager that has stumbled upon the forum and, since teenagers know it all, are proudly pontificating (how's that, bwringer?), you could also be a retired race mechanic that will never get all the grease out from under your fingernails and has been sitting on the sidelines, quietly reading the posts and finally chipped in on a subject close to home. WE have no way of knowing, since we have never met. Considering our respective locations, it seems unlikely. Based on the current tone, I thank you for that.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35588
- Torrance, CA
Truth is all of us “Senior Members” spout off about how you shouldn’t dip rubber or plastic parts yet we do it with every carb rebuild. Of greatest concern I believe is the rubber throttle shaft seals. Because of those seals I recommend reducing the dipping time to the minimum required to get the carbs clean. Good news is that these seals seem to survive this abuse well and there are rarely problems.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Alex
Originally posted by Steve View Post
Alex, where in that "For info on anything carb related" link that you mentioned does it ever say anything about removing them? Look on page 80, it shows the carb body "ready to dip" with the throttle shaft installed.
...I was merely relaying the experience of those that have bothered to mention anything about doing their carbs, that is why the word experience was a bit emphasized. On the other hand, I get a bit of apparent arrogance in return. With your current status of "Junior Member" with only 10 posts to your name, I have absolutely no idea what your experience is regarding mechanical things in general or motorcycle mechanics in particular. You could be a teenager that has stumbled upon the forum and, since teenagers know it all,...
.
Concerning my own experience: I am a automotive mecanic. I am specialized in electronics and of course I do general mechanics. I have been in the trade for about 10 years. As a hoby I also do bodywork welding and fabrication. I like motorcycles but I also play with antique cars. My curent projet is a 62 buick special.
For the question of arrogance.The way I saw your first reply was that you were saying that "my opinion" was completely off with the whole nylon thing and that my suggestion was absolutely not founded. In fact it is founded on what many companies and manufacturers usualy suggest.
Dont get me wrong here, I dont want to start a fight on nylon and carbs with you I am sure that in real life we would get along.
cheers
Alex
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doctorgonzo
The reality is, those nylon bits we all leave on are a PIA to take off and replace and the odds of damage as minimal. The rubber bits yes, but those things, just not much chance it's gonna hurt them.
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sschering
My experience is only with the NAPA brad dips.. I haven't tried Berrymans dip.
It will quickly attack plastics like that screwdriver handle you left sitting to close to the can.
Nylon appears to survive the dip unharmed.
Rubber.. Not what I expected.. The Napa dip won't turn it to goo. It swells it.
a 24 hour dip didn't do much to the rubber parts other than make them more soft and flexible but I still remove everything I can.
It took a 3 day soak to free up frozen pilot screws.
I bought my wife a nice new aluminum cookie sheet then hijacked the old one to use as a drip tray.. Some 4x2 loaf pans are also nice for holding small parts
BTW dip also works well on frozen or sticky calipers and master cylinders.
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tlepac
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doctorgonzo
I've got to do that tonight, got my stock 1000's (pistons) in a drawer covered with carbon. Need to sell those things.
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