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Air Screw + Stuck in carb body.

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    Air Screw + Stuck in carb body.

    Used rust eater, carb cleaner and heat to try to loosen. It's just stuck.
    Any ideas before I drill it out (hope I don't have too).

    #2
    Soak in carb dip for 2-3 days. <<-- Not kidding.. worked on 3 frozen pilot screws in the last rack I did.
    Last edited by Guest; 11-18-2009, 08:35 PM.

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      #3
      Originally posted by 2wheelN00B View Post
      Used rust eater, carb cleaner and heat to try to loosen. It's just stuck.
      Any ideas before I drill it out (hope I don't have too).
      Soak it in paint remover to get the paint they used at the factory. If it's rusted in place soak it in Kroil or PB Blaster for a few days. Get a perfect fitting screwdriver. Better yet try a tiny impact driver. If you have to drill use a left handed drill bit. If it's still a no go, put it back together, run it and find a replacement carb body before you go too far.
      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

      Life is too short to ride an L.

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        #4
        Use a left twist drill, If you don't have a drill press What i have done is to use a large drill that just fits in the hole use it to get a center point before drilling. Use a small 1/8" drill DON"T drill more than 1/4" into the needle

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          #5
          I don't know what the more experienced people will think of this but this was suggested to me by a guy at a salvage yard and worked fine. I cut the housing down to the top of the screw and then used a hacksaw to cut a deeper slot into the top of the screw, was able to get a good bite on it with the screwdriver then and it came right out and I was able to reuse the screw.

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            #6
            That works too. Sometimes.
            http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

            Life is too short to ride an L.

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              #7
              I suggest using a propane torch on the carb body and lots of PB Blaster. Work the screw both ways and do NOT butcher the head. Multipul application of heat and PB spray will be required but that typically gets the job...as long as you don't butcher the head of the screw.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                #8
                If this is the air screw on the outside front of the carb I had to resort to the dremel tool. I ground down the aluminum well until I exposed the screw head and then used a cutoff wheel to put a new slot in the head. The carb kit comes with new screws of course. I would do this as a last resort. Try Nessisms suggestion first. Patience is a virtue! Good luck, Cris

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                  #9
                  I currently have stuck airscrews myself...
                  dumb question: how important is it really to get the airscrews out? I got so fed up with with trying to get them out that I just quit messing with them, put the carbs back on the bike, and it seems to run fine. Am I missing something?

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Surfpilot View Post
                    I currently have stuck airscrews myself...
                    dumb question: how important is it really to get the airscrews out? I got so fed up with with trying to get them out that I just quit messing with them, put the carbs back on the bike, and it seems to run fine. Am I missing something?
                    If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
                    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                    Life is too short to ride an L.

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                      #11
                      I get buggered mixture screws all the time. I use a dremmel and heat. I cut off the tunnel leading to the top of the screw and cut a new notch into it. Then I heat it up to melt the crappy glue or whatever it is they use at the factory. It looks like dandruff when the screw breaks free.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                        #12
                        Haha, funny, I have the exact same problem going on right now on my 650.

                        The threading was just so badly warped, theres probably no hope of getting the screw out.....OR back in.

                        I just tightened the air screw back down, and sprayed it clean one last time, and im hoping the bike runs okay!
                        (one things for sure, that screw aint gonna come loose while im driving!)


                        I don't feel like messing with it, before i end up destroying the carb body or something.....then i'll be delayed even further!

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                          #13
                          I was thinking about this recently... the other three came out easily... supposing they were set at the factory... I leave the stuck one in, and just worry about the other three, eh?

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by 2wheelN00B View Post
                            I was thinking about this recently... the other three came out easily... supposing they were set at the factory... I leave the stuck one in, and just worry about the other three, eh?
                            I'll get the stuck one out.
                            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by 2wheelN00B View Post
                              I was thinking about this recently... the other three came out easily... supposing they were set at the factory... I leave the stuck one in, and just worry about the other three, eh?
                              Then you will have a bike that's running about 3/4 of what it could.

                              .
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