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Chain replacement instructions?

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    #16
    You'll want some parts cleaner, I use non-clorinated brake cleaner from Wally World, to clean up all the gunk.
    And a bit of fine wet'r'dry sandpaper to clean the axle.
    And some grease to lube it when you go back together.
    It is also a good time to inspect the bearings and seals while you have it all apart. If the bearings feel "catchy" when you rotate them, they should probably be replaced. Or you could do it later, with the knowledge that it needs to be done at some point.
    AFA cotter pins, you'll want a couple for the axle (never hurts to have a spare) and for the brake arm. Different sizes, of course.

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      #17
      I ordered the chain and sprockets from Z1 today. RK X-ring and Emgo sprockets. He also added in the spacer and clip style master link. I asked him to add an additional master link after seeing so many folks say to carry one. Unfortunately he did not have the lock washers. I ordered them elsewhere.

      As long as things go right, I'll have the parts in time to spend part of T-Day weekend replacing the chain. I may be looking for phone support. Any volunteers???

      What's the recommended type of grease for bearing work? The service manual says to use SUZUKI super grease "A"? What the heck is that?

      Woodsie

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        #18
        While you have brake calipers off, you might as well check pads for wear and give it a general spritz with brake cleaner. If like most, a little lubrication on the pins and brake rod where it pivots is handy.

        You may want to clean the rear wheel to remove chain lube remains, if that is important to you. Tempted to talk about clean rears with the shaft drive but will respect your request to keep it civil.

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          #19
          Originally posted by woodsietx View Post
          Does the front sprocket get loosened before you remove the chain? What happens if you don't?
          It may have already been mentioned - I've only gotten so far in the thread - but yes, do loosen the front sprocket before removing the chain. It can be a b!tch to turn that thing and it helps to have solid resistance. Even with that, I snapped a beautiful old ratchet and bought an air impact wrench (which worked perfectly).
          "When I give food to the poor, they call me a saint. When I ask why they are poor, they call me a communist." Bishop Helder Camara

          "Beware of the man with only one gun. He probably knows how to use it."

          http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...dStatesMap.jpg

          82 GS1100E....black w/WC fairing and plenty o corrosion and low levels of attention

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            #20
            Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1 View Post
            Put the bike up on the center stand, remove the gearshift lever, remove sprocket cover, remove the sprocket nut - have someone hold the brake while using a breaker bar or air wrench. remove brake calper, remove wheel.
            either grind a link off or cut the old chain with a dremel
            reverse to reinstall
            Perfect......but I used a Sawsall with a metal-cutting blade....it was sweet.
            "When I give food to the poor, they call me a saint. When I ask why they are poor, they call me a communist." Bishop Helder Camara

            "Beware of the man with only one gun. He probably knows how to use it."

            http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...dStatesMap.jpg

            82 GS1100E....black w/WC fairing and plenty o corrosion and low levels of attention

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              #21
              On my 1980 GS750, I had to loosen the exhaust on the left side of the bike to get the footpeg bracket off in order to remove the front sprocket cover. I always suspected that the previous owner had tweaked something in a tip-over to require this, but don't know for sure.
              JP
              1982 GS1100EZ (awaiting resurrection)
              1992 Concours
              2001 GS500 (Dad's old bike)
              2007 FJR

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                #22
                AFA a good grease, any good quality grease will do. I prefer to use a marine grease, which is somewhat waterproof. I also go with a synthetic, since that is what I use on my TransAm suspension parts. I get mine at Tractor Supply Company, but it is available elsewhere also.

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                  #23
                  A quick follow-up.

                  I wasn't able to get the work done like I hoped. I have a fear of finding an easily replaced part like the flat lock washers used on the rear tire unusable when removed so I waited until I received my new ones. They arrived on Monday. I plan to wrench on it Sat. I've a time limit to get the work done so I can take my g/f for her first bike ride sometime between Dec. 12-19.

                  I cleaned the existing chain to see just how bad it is. It definitely needs replaced. I found that that rear sprocket is stamped 630-41 so I know it's still a stock size. The chain is not an o-ring and uses a clip master. It actually looks ok but pulls off the sprocket at the rear and has at least one link that remains kinked slightly as it passes from front to back.

                  I sprayed it pretty liberally with a chain lube and it's rattle noise went away but I know that's not a solution. I tightened it up correctly and the biked felt a lot better. More zip in the drive train sort of speak. Most likely, I'll get a can of the Dupont chain wax before the weekend to go with my new tube of axle grease.

                  I also replaced the speedo cable so I now know how fast and how far I'm driving. I consider that a major victory over the repair demons. Close examination of the tire (Ok I admit I didn't have to look too close but ...) tells me I need to replace it while I have the tire off. I have a thread where I'm looking for tire advice if anyone has thoughts. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=151792

                  Thanks everyone. Y'all are the best.

                  Woodsie

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                    #24
                    I'd get some PJ1 for the chain lube. It's *arguably* the best out there. Just a suggestion.

                    and yes copper based anti-seize works great.

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                      #25
                      How's the finish on your new EMGO sprockets?

                      I had just received a set of sprockets (and new X chain) from z1enterprises, and find that the finish quality of the sprockets are pretty poor compared to the original Suzuki finish.

                      These EMGO sprockets have a sharp edge that I think really need to be dressed off otherwise it'll prematurely wear the new relatively expensive $100 chain.

                      Regards,
                      Jake

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