Chain replacement instructions?

[woodsietx]

Hey people,

I feel a need to replace my drive chain. 1981 GS750E. Stock as far as I can tell on the sprockets. It appears to be a roller chain rather than an o-ring. Although that doesn't matter if I'm removing it. It's loose, loud and pulls away from the sprocket at the 3:00 position. Badly.

I've read and re-read a ton of posts on chains and have finally settled on replacing the 630 with a 530 x-ring and new sprockets. I figure Z1 is the place to go. I am not planning on changing the gearing. My numbers come up as needing an 18 tooth front, 49 tooth rear and 116 links in the chain.

So far so good.

I've never done this and am asking if someone has a step by step procedure for this? For instance, I don't want to find out after the fact that I should have loosened the frommel bolt before the muffler bearing or it won't come off without a hydraulic press. I'm being flippant but you know what I mean.

I looked over wheel removal in the service manual and it talks about lock washers and not reusing them. Should I expect the guys at Z1 to know what parts I need in addition to the big parts? Would anyone here be able to warn about what little parts I might need? Other issues to look for? I don't plan to do any bearings at this time though. Unless they fall out.

I've mostly decided I should rivet the chain. I need a tool. I have an offer of a loaner rivet tool but it's a 200 mile round trip. and 200 more to return it. So I figure I'm better off buying a tool. Has anyone ever picked up one of the $50 tools from ebay that look pretty much the same as the $90 ones?

I've always had a horrible history of keeping chains in good shape. To hear people get 20K miles out of a chain completely amazes me. So a rivet tool is something I should have.

Thanks to anyone who can help.

BTW, we chainies don't need to hear all the shaft drive bull-chit. Again. I know the advantages. That's why I bought one of those too. If it was in Texas with me, I'd be riding it.

Woodsie

[tkent02]

O ring chains last a lot longer 20K seems likely.
Use an endless chain and pull the swingarm, it needs grease by now anyway.
Better make sure to get the length right first.

[spyug]

I don't see the benefit from a rivetted chain in normal street use. its an added expense ( if you have to buy the tool) and a bit of a pain. Just get your o-ring or x-ring chain of choice with a masterlink. Just make sure when you put on the c-clip retainer the open ends point in the direction opposite chain travel (i.e. pointing to the back of the bike). Secure with a dollop of silicone.

The problem you can run into with new chain is it is tight and hard to adjust. Sometimes with the adjuster pushing the axle forward you have too many links and when you take a few off its leaves too big a gap to join. You need to measure carefully before chopping links. I find each bike is a bit different so its a bit of trial and error. I try to get the wheel as far forward as piossible but then back it down a half link or so. You might need a bit more as you want to have up/down slack in the chain at all time. Without reference to the manual I think its about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of travel. I was looking at a new CBR today down at my wrench's and the chain had stretched and had easily a 2 inch up down play in it. The adjusters were pretty much used right up so time for a new one I'd think.

I don't know if the fellas behind the part counter will think to offer you the washers and such so be sure to mention them.

Is there a tutorial on the subject on Cliff's site, if not maybe you should do one for the group.

Good luck with it.

cheers,
Spyug

[koolaid_kid]

There is a decent writeup here: http://ducatitoolrental.com/motorcyc...placement.html

The endless chain vs. master link debate will never end. I use a link b/c it is easier to replace/maintain. But I also carry a spare master link, just in case.

[tkent02]

There is a decent writeup here: http://ducatitoolrental.com/motorcyc...placement.html

The endless chain vs. master link debate will never end. I use a link b/c it is easier to replace/maintain. But I also carry a spare master link, just in case.

I never had any worries about a master link, but I have had a few fall off. I suppose in the wrong circumstances it could be bad.
The last one, the clip was found just laying there on the swingarm, but the master link had not fallen off yet.

[Steve]

I was going to suggest being sure to get new sprockets, too, then I re-read your post and saw that you are going to a 530 chain, and that automatically means "new sprockets".


I am not sure just when you are supposed to loosen the Frommel bolt, but if you should happen to need a new muffler bearing, ...

.

[woodsietx]

I think I'm about to be a master link convert.

That chain site is useful. It's nice to see the information presented on a real bike.

What I'm hoping for is to get some very specific things to look out for related to the GS. Maybe someone can share the details of this work like the article on valve adjustment did.

Do I need to drop the swing arm? Not should I, but do I HAVE to?

If no to the swing arm, what about the shocks?

What order should the three primary items be removed? Rear sprocket, wheel, front sprocket? Front, wheel, rear? Wheel, rear front? Do you loosen the sprocket bolts on the rear before or after the wheel comes off? I am ignorant as to whether you can even get to the nuts while on the bike.

Does the front sprocket get loosened before you remove the chain? What happens if you don't? I have never worked with one of the bendable lock washers. Does it have to be replaced? I know the service manual says to replace the rear ones.

I'll be taking lots of pictures of the process so hopefully I can write up an instruction article.

What I fear most is to be part way through the fix and find I need some $2 part I could have ordered with the chain. I can't find OEM parts locally, everything has to be ordered. If I know in advance what I might need, I can prep for it.

For example, are there any special chemicals involved in taking off or putting on sprockets? If I need a tube of Barney Fife's Wonder Grease, I'd rather not have to drive 30 miles to get it. Am I making sense?

I thank everyone for the info so far.

Woodsie

[msdosp1mp]

What part of town do you live in again?

[SqDancerLynn1]

Put the bike up on the center stand, remove the gearshift lever, remove sprocket cover, remove the sprocket nut - have someone hold the brake while using a breaker bar or air wrench. remove brake calper, remove wheel.
either grind a link off or cut the old chain with a dremel
reverse to reinstall

[hikermikem]

You can download a service manual at BikeCliff's site:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

You want the 750 16V EX one... there's info there about wheel & sprocket removal.

I did the same 530 conversion on my 550 a couple of years ago (I used a master link). I seem to remember loosening the front sprocket nut first, while the chain was still on, it kept the shaft from turning.

They recommend not reusing the lock washers (curved 2 hole metal strip) that secures the sprocket nuts on to the wheel. I generally re-use mine unless they're badly corroded, just re-bend the tabs back against the nut flats. Pay attention to the spacers & their order on the rear axle.

No worries - not a bad job, however as Spyug sez, getting the new chain ends together can be a PITA...

Good luck

[koolaid_kid]

I think I'm about to be a master link convert.

That chain site is useful. It's nice to see the information presented on a real bike.

What I'm hoping for is to get some very specific things to look out for related to the GS. Maybe someone can share the details of this work like the article on valve adjustment did.

Do I need to drop the swing arm? Not should I, but do I HAVE to?

If no to the swing arm, what about the shocks?

What order should the three primary items be removed? Rear sprocket, wheel, front sprocket? Front, wheel, rear? Wheel, rear front? Do you loosen the sprocket bolts on the rear before or after the wheel comes off? I am ignorant as to whether you can even get to the nuts while on the bike.

Does the front sprocket get loosened before you remove the chain? What happens if you don't? I have never worked with one of the bendable lock washers. Does it have to be replaced? I know the service manual says to replace the rear ones.

I'll be taking lots of pictures of the process so hopefully I can write up an instruction article.

What I fear most is to be part way through the fix and find I need some $2 part I could have ordered with the chain. I can't find OEM parts locally, everything has to be ordered. If I know in advance what I might need, I can prep for it.

For example, are there any special chemicals involved in taking off or putting on sprockets? If I need a tube of Barney Fife's Wonder Grease, I'd rather not have to drive 30 miles to get it. Am I making sense?

I thank everyone for the info so far.

Woodsie

You'll want to remove the front sprocket first, as mentioned above.
You'll need to remove the rear wheel to replace the rear sprocket. It is easiest if you drop the shocks by pulling them from the top bolt/stud. If it's like my 1100, you'll also need to remove the caliper. We we pulled my rear wheel, we also elevated the bike slightly by putting the centerstand on a 2x4. YMMV.
I have always reused the rear locking washers, but replaced the front one (if your bike has one). If you remove the caliper, be sure and replace the cotter pins (of course).
I find it easiest to connect the chain on the sprocket. I wrap one end of the chain almost all the way around the sprocket, then match up the other end also on the sprocket. Then install the master/endless link there.
The gunk the factory puts on the chain is a preservative, not a lube. I prefer to clean that crud off and put real lube on it after all is said and done.

[woodsietx]

What part of town do you live in again?

I live in Liberty Hill but work in Round Rock.

Woodsie

[woodsietx]

This is good stuff. Thanks.

No chemicals needed? What about anti-seize on the bolts? If so what kind? Is there a grease or lube that goes under the sprockets?

I'm glad the cotter pins were mentioned. I wouldn't have had new ones and would need to drive 20 miles to get them. I can get them on the way home now.

I have a complete service manual on disk and on my laptop. I take the laptop with me and have it running behind me while I work. Thank you MRiddle.

What concerns me about the service manual is the same issue I have with advice that gets shared here. The manual and guys sometimes toss off a suggestion with three or four words, like "remove the engine" and there's invariably a small detail that comes back to bite me. It's a personal karma vs. mechanical devices thing that I face everytime I grab a wrench. So I ask for any of the small details that someone may have dealt with already. For example, putting white lithium grease in the carb boots to make them easier to remove later. Not in the manual. Am I making sense?

I'll plan to buy the lock washers when I order the chain, just in case.

I wish to publicly state here that I do enjoy learning and performing these repairs myself rather than spending money on them. Y'all have converted me.

Woodsie

[hikermikem]

I think it's a safe bet to ALWAYS use anti-seize on all your metal-to-metal fasteners... unless you're selling your bike to someone you despise, then just spray all the threads with water before you install them

[woodsietx]

I think it's a safe bet to ALWAYS use anti-seize on all your metal-to-metal fasteners...

I'm assuming this is a different metal-to-metal than the stainless-to-aluminum in the engine. Is the copper based anti-seize appropriate?

unless you're selling your bike to someone you despise, then just spray all the threads with water before you install them

I had this picture of cutting off the stator lead connectors and then finger twisting the two ends together as another crap head move.

Woodsie