If I want to weld it by a local machine shop here in Hong Kong. What is the procedures? Do I need a 18mm straight rod to hold all the 4 small ends during the welding? What kind of weld method should I use?
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is that easily to weld a crank?
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Addy Leung
is that easily to weld a crank?
I have a spare crank of GS1000-8v which is not welded. The condition seems very good and low miles. All bearings are good and tight. The rods do not have any up and down play, and turn it freely. The side play is also little. The 4 four small end also very fine.
If I want to weld it by a local machine shop here in Hong Kong. What is the procedures? Do I need a 18mm straight rod to hold all the 4 small ends during the welding? What kind of weld method should I use?Tags: None
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Hey Andy... If you're going to have the crank welded take it to a machine shop that specializes in engine work. Heads, blocks, cranks ect. If you don't and have a welding shop just 'weld it up' they may do more damage than good. For parts like that, I let the pros who do it every day, handle it for me.
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Originally posted by Dave8338 View PostHey Andy... If you're going to have the crank welded take it to a machine shop that specializes in engine work. Heads, blocks, cranks ect. If you don't and have a welding shop just 'weld it up' they may do more damage than good. For parts like that, I let the pros who do it every day, handle it for me.
Ship it to someone in the states.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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The 8V 1000's typically DON'T have a problem with twisted cranks, unlike the 1100E, unless the engine is modified in a big way that is.
EDIT: Forgot the DON'TLast edited by Nessism; 11-21-2009, 09:07 PM.Ed
To measure is to know.
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I don't think any of them have a problem unless they are severely abused.
Maybe drop the clutch at really high RPM for a big burnout? Maybe when the tire hooks up after a burnout? Maybe skipping out of gear and back in at full throttle? Not sure exactly when they bend, but it's not likely during the normal abuse we all do. Maybe one of the engine gurus will chime in here.
I've not yet had a twisted crankshaft, I'm on my eighth or so 1000/1100, and have worked on several more. They all get ridden pretty hard on occasion, though I'm not deliberately trying to twist a crank.
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cavehamster
I just took my crank off to a local auto machine shop to be welded. Talked to the guy today, he's going after a chromed rod to put through the rod pins to make sure it is straight, and then welding it tomorrow. Says as long as it is not twisted, he'll charge me $50. Sounded reasonable to me.
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Originally posted by tkent02 View PostI don't think any of them have a problem unless they are severely abused.
Maybe drop the clutch at really high RPM for a big burnout? Maybe when the tire hooks up after a burnout? Maybe skipping out of gear and back in at full throttle? Not sure exactly when they bend, but it's not likely during the normal abuse we all do. Maybe one of the engine gurus will chime in here.
I've not yet had a twisted crankshaft, I'm on my eighth or so 1000/1100, and have worked on several more. They all get ridden pretty hard on occasion, though I'm not deliberately trying to twist a crank.
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My 80 1100 crank was very abused with an 1166 kit, heavy rider and it was still perfect. I was pleasantly suprised.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Originally posted by isleoman View PostI would have to disagree respectfully on the 82 1100 cranks. Mine twisted with very light abuse (wheelie) at 10K.
Mine did it in 3rd at about 6K. I went to 4 and it started to stumble.82 1100 EZ (red)
"You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY
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you cannot weld a crank as one piece. as mentioned it has to be broken down and reassembled, welding each web to the big end journal at a time, whilst constantly keeping it true. a proper jig is required to prevent distortion and a bloody good welder!1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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supersonictoys
I have done several kz1000 ball bearing cranks which were all used in drag bike motors with perfect success. it isnt that big of a deal. just make sure its strait first. spray everything with antispatter and dont do the whole weld at one time as this will put to much heat into the crank causing it to warp. break each weld into 3 equal pieces. weld one third the way around one pin and move to another pin and do one third of it. then go back and do another third on the first pin till all are completed. grind down any real high points, completely wash in solvent and blow off, recheck for straitness and install. I couldnt imagine taking one apart to weld it. cant see why a suzy crank would be any different unless there are some pins you cant get to without taking it apart but I doubt that
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You do not disassemble the crank to weld it. The only time it is done that way is when the the crank is being rebuilt.
Welding the pins so they won't twist is done to the complete assembly. Check it with the rod to make sure it is not twisted, the weld the pins, each about 1/2 inch, in a couple of spots.Speed Merchant
http://www.gszone.biz
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doctorgonzo
Originally posted by Big Jay View PostYou do not disassemble the crank to weld it. The only time it is done that way is when the the crank is being rebuilt.
Welding the pins so they won't twist is done to the complete assembly. Check it with the rod to make sure it is not twisted, the weld the pins, each about 1/2 inch, in a couple of spots.
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