Brakes, rear break pedal doesn't release.

[Ohioan]

When I push down on the rear break pedal, it goes down (rather stiffly) and the brakes do work, but then they don't release. If I pull up on the pedal it releases. the reservoir has enough fluid in it.

I did some reading in old threads and see that it could be 1. brakes need bled, air in the line. 2. Dirty lines, entire system needs cleaned, or 3. dry rotted line somewhere.

I saw someone mentioned a rebuilding. what does that include? where do I get a rebuild kit for the master cylinder?

Thanks!

[tkent02]

Likely the pivot shaft needs to be cleaned and greased.

[Agemax]

sounds right, nothing to do with the master cylinder or caliper. strip out the pivot shaft, clean and grease it. that should cure the problem

[doctorgonzo]

The return spring behind the pedal is there right... Just making sure.

[hampshirehog]

I bet it's the brake lever pivot gone rusty and seized. Remove the brake lever plus spring then disconnect the MC from the pivot and tap out the pivot on the end of the spindle. Clean everything out, slop in some grease and reassemble.

If this works there's no need to rebuild the MC though it sounds as if a good flush through with fresh brake fluid wouldn't go amiss.

If you do go for a rebuild Z1 have the kit (I haven't tried set - others may chime in): http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1371

[Steve]

Yep, Been There, Done That.

Remove the brake pedal from its pivot, clean the inside of the pivot on the pedal and the pivot shaft on the frame. Apply a bit of grease, re-assemble, enjoy.

.

[Nessism]

I bet it's the brake lever pivot gone rusty and seized. Remove the brake lever plus spring then disconnect the MC from the pivot and tap out the pivot on the end of the spindle. Clean everything out, slop in some grease and reassemble.

If this works there's no need to rebuild the MC though it sounds as if a good flush through with fresh brake fluid wouldn't go amiss.

If you do go for a rebuild Z1 have the kit (I haven't tried set - others may chime in): http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1371

I'd stay clear of K&L brake system parts, I've seen a couple different examples of bad parts from them. It's not worth it, particularly when OE is typically the same price or even cheaper sometimes depending on specific application.

[bwringer]

I'd stay clear of K&L brake system parts, I've seen a couple different examples of bad parts from them. It's not worth it, particularly when OE is typically the same price or even cheaper sometimes depending on specific application.

Agreed.

K&L = Krap.

Buy OEM parts if you need to rebuild.

Although the OP's problem sounds more like a rusty brake pedal pivot.

[Ohioan]

oh.. I'm glad I asked here before I started tearing into it. heh..

THANKS!

[Ohioan]

Okay.. soo.. how do you get the shaft out?

[hampshirehog]

I take it that you have removed the brake pedal and spring plus disconnected the back plate from the MC rod -removed the pin and the arm is now free.

Only one thing for it - grab a hammer and a punch and (3/8 socket extension - an old one - I think fits) and give it a few whacks. You might have to get some lube in there as well so work it backwards and forwards as required.

[Speedo]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=151512Ohioan - see the reply I just posted to Steve(thenewguy).

Sounds like the shaft indeed like everyone else is saying. I did not have to remove it. Spray liberally with PBblaster or the like (even WD40 in a pinch) and start pounding on it (use a piece of wood between shaft and hammer - you don't want to damage the splines) with hammer. Keep testing between every few whacks. Check return spring as said too - it can't come back up w/out the spring working right.

ps Delaware OH - been there, rode there via Olentangy River Rd. Nice ride. Still have house in Dublin, friends/fam in OH. Good luck man!