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cam chain tensioner question

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    cam chain tensioner question

    I know I have seen this question on here several times, but I have never seen an actual answer. I am getting ready to replace the seal behind the knurled knob on my automatic cam chain tensioner( on an 83 850). I realize I will have to remove the knurled knob and tensioner spring from the assembly. Can anyone tell me how much preload needs to be on the tensioner spring before I put the knurled knob on and the spring ends in their respective holes, once I have the seal replaced and begin reassembling the tensioner? Is there a specific number of turns or some other indicator?

    #2
    I did this recently on my 83 GS750ES (replaced all the seals to stop oil leak). There is a number of turns you need to do, but I forgot how many (2 I think). Will look it up in the manual and will post an answer. Not sure if it is same for your 850.

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      #3
      With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out ? turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

      With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

      Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

      Loosen the slotted bolt ? turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that ? turn.

      While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

      Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively slackened. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.

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        #4
        Thanks Billy, that is what my factory manual says also. I just assumed that was for removing, intalling, and checking the tensioner, not the acutally disassembly and reassembly of the tensioner. I also assumed that the tension knob was only allowed to turn so many times and that the spring has a "presetting" that it needed to be set at before placing one tang in the hole in the knob, and the other tang in its spot on the tensioner body. I haven't disassembled it yet. I hope to get to it tonight.

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          #5
          Brandon,

          I was wrong, it is one turn. Here is what is says for tensioner assembly (in the Servicing Engine section of my manual):

          - Apply engine oil to the lock shaft. Insert the shaft into the holder, and bring the two into the relative position indicated.

          - Hook the spring onto the holder and handle, twist the spring by ONE complete rotation counterclockwise, fit the handle onto the shaft, and then tighten the nut.

          - After tighteningn the lock shaft nut, install the lock shaft assembly on the tensioner body. Be sure to adhere to the following torque specifications:

          Lock shaft nut: 6.0-7.0 lb-ft
          Shaft assembly tightening torque: 22.5-25.5 lb-ft

          - Apply a hight quality molibdenum disulfide lubricant (SUZUKI MOLY PASTE) to the push rod and engine oil to the push rod guide hole.

          - Match the lock screw hole to the long groove in the push rod, as shown.

          - Slide the push rod spring on to the pushrod.

          - While turning lock shaft handle counterclockwise, push in the pushrod all the way. Keep on turning the handle until it refuses to turn further.

          - Tighten the lock screw to lock the pushrod, so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

          Hope it helps even if it is for different model (and no pictures). I think you should have this in your service manual, it is on different place than installing the tensioner.

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            #6
            Thanks Zoran,

            I looked through my manual and found the information on the adjuster. It was further in the engine section than the removal and installation instructions. Mine also says one complete turn, counterclockwise.

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