Chain Woes

[Turtleface]

Alright, seems I have a need for a new chain. Mine's doing a bit of binding, and I'm not terribly happy with that. There's a space between two links that's ever so slightly too large, and that bit of chain doesn't mess perfectly with the sprockets. So, during a few inches of travel, the slack in the chain is not present under the swing arm, but on the outside radius of whatever sprocket that bad link happens to be on. The link looks perfect, chain's adjusted and centered on the sprockets. I can't detect any signs of damage. How'd this happen? It started doing this after Saturday, when I performed said chain adjustment. Just normal chain death? I want to make sure it doesn't happen right after I put on a new chain.

At least I know how to pull off my front sprocket cover now. Not to mention giving the inside of that disgusting thing a good cleaning. Foam threw me for a loop for a second, but I'd imagine that stuff is there to quiet down driveline noises.

I'm not too keen on dismantling the entire rear end to put on a new chain right now, so I figured I'd go with a masterlink chain. Any caveats I need to know before diving in?

[salty_monk]

Put some silcon on the link if you go that route.. the clips have a habit of coming off.

Always carry a spare as well.

Your problem sounds like it might be a dry/stiff link. Prob been that way for a while but now you're looking at it

[ramrod400]

You could get a rivet type masterlink most people just peen it flat with ball peen hammer while holding something on the other side or get the tool to do it with , I have hard time locally even getting clip type masterlink?

[Turtleface]

Put some silcon on the link if you go that route.. the clips have a habit of coming off.

Always carry a spare as well.

Your problem sounds like it might be a dry/stiff link. Prob been that way for a while but now you're looking at it

Quite possib le. I noticed it because the bike started feel strange at the rear tire. Pretty much just like a rotor that's warped, dragging a bit whenever it hits the warped spot, and turning free for a bit when it hits the non-warped bits.

The thing that worrys me is that when the that link gets about halfway up the back sprocket, the slack in the chain get's taken up dramatically. Obviously, this is bad. What're the min and max numbers for chain slack? Perhaps I can adjust the chain to run within the tolerance, rather than at optimum. Provided I can find something in Phoenix with a 630 chain, I should be able to pick it up tomorrow, maybe the day after. If not, probably going to have to mail order, so maybe a week. Sixth largest city in the nation, with maybe a week of real rain, and a year round riding climate. Someone better have a chain locally.

How many links will I require for an 82 1100 EZ? Masterlink goes on so that the open end points away from the direction of chain travel, right? Then a silicone dab to hold it in place. Extra link and a tiny tube of silicone can live under my seat in the ziplock bag that's taped to the underside, with all my paperwork.

[Mysuzyq]

Quite possib le. I noticed it because the bike started feel strange at the rear tire. Pretty much just like a rotor that's warped, dragging a bit whenever it hits the warped spot, and turning free for a bit when it hits the non-warped bits.

The thing that worrys me is that when the that link gets about halfway up the back sprocket, the slack in the chain get's taken up dramatically. Obviously, this is bad. What're the min and max numbers for chain slack? Perhaps I can adjust the chain to run within the tolerance, rather than at optimum. Provided I can find something in Phoenix with a 630 chain, I should be able to pick it up tomorrow, maybe the day after. If not, probably going to have to mail order, so maybe a week. Sixth largest city in the nation, with maybe a week of real rain, and a year round riding climate. Someone better have a chain locally.

How many links will I require for an 82 1100 EZ? Masterlink goes on so that the open end points away from the direction of chain travel, right? Then a silicone dab to hold it in place. Extra link and a tiny tube of silicone can live under my seat in the ziplock bag that's taped to the underside, with all my paperwork.

Turtle, that chain is shot.....you won't be able to adjust it properly......will always be too tight/loose as it rotates. If you can't find one locally, contact Z1 Enterprises. Also consider going with a lighter 530 conversion kit, if the sprockets need changed as well (do a search here for the pros/cons.....mostly pro's though).
Tony.

[ikantbreave]

Maybe a place...

Cycle Gear Store #15 1040 South Country Club Dr
Mesa, AZ 85210

Country Club just north of Southern

(480) 969-5555

Store Hours: Mon-Thurs 10-7
Fri. 10-8
Sat 9-6
Sun 10-5


These guys will probably have the chain you need. I use the one in north Phoenix but they probably all carry the same stuff. Good luck.

Brion

[Ponderosa]

Matching...

Sprockets ok? I have found over the years that is much cheaper in the long run to replace sprockets with chains. Sprockets have a way of wear seating with a chain after a short amount of time, that and cheap knockoff sprockets tend to wear uneven. Check for cupping and uneven wear on your sprockets, sounds like a stretched link, it happens..

[chef1366]

If your chain is that messed up I bet your sprockets are also.
I don't change my sprockets everytime I change my chain but you may have to.
Inspect carefully.

[Turtleface]

If your chain is that messed up I bet your sprockets are also.
I don't change my sprockets everytime I change my chain but you may have to.
Inspect carefully.

Chain's got less than 15k on it, it's the original. Just sat for a few years. When I bought it, I was fairly sure I was going to have to replace it. That and all the grease and grime that was firmly lodged into it. I've been doing cleanings and adjustments about every 750-1000 miles, and I think I just finally got it clean enough expose it's faults. The sprockets look pretty good, I think, when I get home from work today I'll take some pictures and post them. Shoulders look pretty square, anyways.

The idea was to do a 530 conversion in the long run, but I need a known good resolution. Last thing I need is to get parts for the conversion and end up having to wait for parts/machine work/magic mechanical marching monkeys. So I'll just grab a 630 and keep it and it's sprockets around as spares when I eventually do the conversion.

96 links is correct for stock length?

[850 Combat]

If your chain is that messed up I bet your sprockets are also.
I don't change my sprockets everytime I change my chain but you may have to.
Inspect carefully.

agree. A chain can't get very bad without wearing out the sprockets. Worn sprockets will reduce the life of a new chain. One wears the other.

[Turtleface]

Well, couldn't find a 630 locally, so I'll have to order parts. Might as well order the parts for a 530 conversion, if I'm going to order parts. In order to keep the gear ratio as close to stock as possible, I should order the 17/48, with a 114 link chain, correct? Oh, and a 6mm spacer for the front sprocket. Any other special crush washers or the like that I need to replace while I'm in there?

[cyclefvr2]

sounds like the chain is shot , what happens is the outside of the chain looks good, but the rollers the teeth pull, will break ,and through the ratio off tight somewhere loose somwhere else, it is most likley cheapest to chainge chain and sprockets at the same time, because if the sprockets are wore a little ,the chain will ware different and ruin all over again,and make the sprockets worse , costing even more
dennis kirk has a few different brands, i would suggest the better 530 chain instead of a cheapo
the 530 is lighter, 4-8 lbs or so?, regina is a very good chain,but pricy
the stock 630 are not as googd as a decent 530, they will just keep streching and ****ing you off
renthal is a great chain if you can find one in 530,most are 520, check the tension ratings get the strongest , solid pin is the best but pricy

[Turtleface]

sounds like the chain is shot , what happens is the outside of the chain looks good, but the rollers the teeth pull, will break ,and through the ratio off tight somewhere loose somwhere else, it is most likley cheapest to chainge chain and sprockets at the same time, because if the sprockets are wore a little ,the chain will ware different and ruin all over again,and make the sprockets worse , costing even more
dennis kirk has a few different brands, i would suggest the better 530 chain instead of a cheapo
the 530 is lighter, 4-8 lbs or so?, regina is a very good chain,but pricy
the stock 630 are not as googd as a decent 530, they will just keep streching and ****ing you off
renthal is a great chain if you can find one in 530,most are 520, check the tension ratings get the strongest , solid pin is the best but pricy

Closer inspection reveals at least two pins without o-rings. The chain was filthy when I bought the bike, looked someone used mud for lube. The bike hadn't been ridden for years previously. My theory is that over time, rust accumulated on the pins underneath all that grunge. As I've run the bike, cleaning and lubing the chain approximately every 1000 miles, I'm slowly eroded out the grunge, exposing the o-rings to the rust, which promptly ate said o-rings for lunch with their rough metal-ly goodness.

Oh well, more excuses to tinker.

[Turtleface]

Well, couldn't find a 630 locally, so I'll have to order parts. Might as well order the parts for a 530 conversion, if I'm going to order parts. In order to keep the gear ratio as close to stock as possible, I should order the 17/48, with a 114 link chain, correct? Oh, and a 6mm spacer for the front sprocket. Any other special crush washers or the like that I need to replace while I'm in there?

Quick bump, about to order parts. 17 tooth front, 48 tooth rear should put me pretty close to stock, correct? The front will need a 6 mm spacer, and the chain should have 114 links, if I'm correct. If anyone can think of anything else I might need, please chime in!