Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

WOT and only revs to about 3500

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    WOT and only revs to about 3500

    got an 85 gs550e and finally got it started but will only rev to bout 3500 and seems to be runing on 2 cylinders, and if i shoot a quick spray of brake cleaner it will rev to 9000 no problem. also to get it started i either have to hold mt hand over the carb throat or shoot some starting fluid in her any ideas?????????

    #2
    Originally posted by firetruckmechanic View Post
    any ideas?????????
    Here's an idea,
    Don't spray brake cleaner anywhere hot.

    Last edited by tkent02; 11-29-2009, 10:59 PM.


    Life is too short to ride an L.

    Comment


      #3
      I'll second the "DON'T USE BRAKE CLEANER" and also add "THROW THE STARTING FLUID AWAY".

      If you can hold your hand over the carb throat, that means you don't have any kind of filter on there. The CV carbs on your bike NEED to have some restriction on the intake, preferably a stock airbox. Without that restriction, there is not enough vacuum to lift the slides to allow higher speeds.

      If you have problems starting the bike cold and "need" starting fluid to start it, you will need to adjust your valves.
      Tight valves make a bike very hard to start when cold.

      .
      sigpic
      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
      Family Portrait
      Siblings and Spouses
      Mom's first ride
      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

      Comment


        #4
        and the 3500 at WOT is a function of only running on 2 cylinders.

        Comment


          #5
          I just sprayed the brake cleaner in it to see if the engine speed would change. As far the air box i put it back on BUT didnt put the fliter in, casue the foam seal around the filter is gone. I got the bike last weekend and this is my forst suzuki..

          Comment


            #6
            OK, let me clarify a bit:

            not only do you need the airbox, you need the filter and all covers installed, and any gaps in the covers sealed with weatherstripping.
            ANY air leaks that bypass the intended path of air will reduce the engineered restriction level, hindering proper operation.

            Install a proper filter, repair any missing/damaged seals inside the airbox and it will probably work as well as it can, but since you admit you just got it, you would be better off to do a total going-over of the bike, which includes valve adjustment, carb cleaning (along with replacing all the internal o-rings) and a carb sync. THEN you will truly be able to enjoy your "new" bike.

            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

            Comment


              #7
              Ok you know it runs, the next thing to do is start at the begining. DON"T TAKE ANY SHORT CUTS. Adjust the valves first, then replace the intake O rings if your bike is equiped with them, next do a through carb cleaning. Reseal the airbox and filter.
              AT this time you should have a sweet running bike and can ,move on to the cosmetics of the bike.
              SO order a STOCK-OEM cam cover gasket and some new end seals, do not try to use the realgasket on your 550 when you do the valves

              Comment


                #8
                Hi,

                Here's some pertinent information from your "mega-welcome".

                ***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
                Every GS850 [and most other models] has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

                These common issues are:

                1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
                2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
                3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
                4. Carb/airbox boots
                5. Airbox sealing
                6. Air filter sealing
                7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
                8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
                9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
                10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.


                What I have noticed at the rallies is that very, very few 850Gs are actually running right. Make VERY sure it's actually running the way it's supposed to before busting out the modifications.


                Brian's E-Z and fun plan for GS850 happiness:

                1) Seal the airbox and air filter with weatherstripping.

                2) Ensure no intake leaks. Spraying WD-40 or water doesn't tell you much, since very small air leaks can cause problems even though they won't suck in enough WD-40 to make a difference. Replace your intake boot o-rings and boots if needed, and seriously consider spending the lousy $28 for new airbox/carb boots.

                3) Ensure clean carbs with correct settings, new o-rings, and original OEM jets. No, not just squirted with something. I mean completely disassembled.

                4) Check/adjust valve clearances (Manual calls for every 4,000 miles. This is not optional.)

                5) Ensure healthy electrical system.

                6) Seriously consider upgrading coils and plug wires.

                7) Install new, stock NGK B8-ES plugs gapped to .031".

                8 ) Fine-tune float height and idle mixture screw to ensure best off-idle transition.

                9) Clean air filter and reinstall with only the lightest oil mist -- over-oiling and/or letting the filter get dirty is a common and critical mistake, and will make the bike run funny at low speeds and run rich. This may take a few tries.

                10) Make sure the exhaust seals are sealing.

                11) Ooh, much better now, huh? You're gonna need upgraded suspension - Progressive or better fork springs and shocks. Set suspension sag appropriately.

                12) Upgrade brakes with new pads and stainless lines to deal with all that extra speed.

                13) Install new petcock, since I'm going to head to the roof with a rifle if I have to read about yet another #2 plug fouling and failed hillbilly attempts to rebuild the petcock and/or deny there's a problem.

                14) Oh yeah -- check compression somewhere in there to ensure the valves and rings are reasonably healthy.

                15) You'll probably need new OEM clutch springs -- the clutches last forever, but the springs get tired after 20 years or so under pressure. E-Z and cheap.
                Carburetor maintenance:

                Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:

                Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:

                You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
                And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
                http://cycleorings.com
                Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:

                ********************************************

                There are a few more tidbits of information on my website that might help. Keep us informed.


                Thank you for your indulgence,

                BassCliff

                Comment

                Working...
                X